Thanks for the response, it's what I expected. Might look for a graphite one, not a fan of the aluminum for this reason and a couple others.

I found out early on into the aluminum buzz that it wasnt necessary, at least in 12th. In fact, my car felt better with carbon. I also at the time was able to get a stiffer carbon chassis that just worked awesome for me, so i never had to deal with aluminum on 12th. But tc, since aluminum has been a thing, I've only bent 2...one was when i had a destiny when they first came out and then one on my AX when it was used as a test dummy on pavement runs and it met with a brick curb lol. But yea once you see its bent...toss it

What year car? I probably have one for you.

22 Xray X12. Great car, just don't like the aluminum and especially the lightened Euro version. You can't tune it by taking top plate fasteners off because it flexes so much.

LMK and thanks

Anyone like to recommend a rollout figure for a 4.5, on a large outdoor asphalt track, with two long straights please? XRAY X12'20.

Thanks!

Since gt12 isn’t really doing anything at my track I’m thinking about running 17.5 spec 1/12. It doesn’t runn every week but it does run more often than gt12. But I have a few questions: I got a Motiv 17.5 because that is what the track had. I’m looking for a starting rollout, track is 36’x80’. Also I’m not sure there is a consensus on spec tires to run, and the contact’s are the cheapest so has anyone ran them and how do they compare? Also, I am struggling on what chassis to run. I have both an A12 and a ck25 AR. I have pretty much all the tuning options for the CRC while the Awesomatix I am lacking the -6 front end pieces. And last, which body? I have a old beat up Strakka that I will start with.

Thanks

41 - 42mm should be a good starting point. I use 38mm for a boosted 3.5t on a similar track.

All the blue stripe tires are the same compound, so brand won't matter much. Run whatever your track can stock the easiest. Can't give you an idea on rollout, so just dont overheat the motor- check the temp after 5 minutes. Protoform AMR12 and CRC Lola BA009 are good start points for bodies.

Oh, since you're just starting, stick with the CRC until your familiar enough to try the A12.

Oooooh, I'll be using that "secret roll-out" when I come to Brendale for AOC

Hmmm, I'd better get some practice in!

Does anyone have any links to articles/videos about rear pod balancing please?

I've used this method in the past. I have never had good luck with balance buttons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgXgUnxXHEk

One thing that may be a little unintuitive is that when balancing your pod you don't want to have normal tires on, the reason why is if the tire isn't perfect the spot where its supporting the wheel will move side-to-side and not give a consistent number. To check the balance on mine I put some setup wheel disks on the axles, if you cant then putting a piece of something under the tire to make sure the contact point is the same side to side may be a good idea. I might take a picture later.

The way I balance the pod (schmachers) is to first setup my hubs, spur and pinion. Then with the pod removed use two gram food scales. I prefer to use setup wheels and not normal wheels but it shouldn't make much difference. Then space the motor if the pinion side is heavy or add weight to the pinion side if it's light. You can stick weights on or screw them on here or there. If the pinion side is a couple grams light I just compensate by looping the motor wires to that side. If you have a balanced pod you can straighten the motor wire run to add less weight. You have to use TLAR for that last portion.

I use the same method for balancing the actual car as well. I'll first balance it without the pod then assemble then balance the whole car again using two food scales and a balance post on one of the center holes.

In general the car drives better with a good mass balance because when you check tweak it is actually "attempting" to cross weight the car.