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Old 09-06-2015 | 07:03 PM
  #43231  
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Originally Posted by ScottE1776
The On Point youtube videos are great for checking tweak and getting rid of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ct2L3KEkE0


Awesome tutorial videos.

I'm so glad he did these videos and in someways it motivated me to do the same.

This is a racing class where every little detail counts. Double, triple, check everything is perfect.
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Old 09-06-2015 | 09:49 PM
  #43232  
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Originally Posted by Drew Manzella
It passes the coin trick fine - but the coin trick is never anything I have put a ton of stock into beyond a quick and dirty basic check. I use scales and levels to check for chassis tweak (as well as straight edges and such).

It is possible it is an arm but not likely springs or any chassis tweak. Electronics layout is pretty much "what it is" since there isn't a ton of room for playing. This could be the issue but the heavy side of the car is the side with the electronics.

Side springs - maybe. When my cross is where I want it and the level says the rear pod is flat the left spring has a good bit more preload on it than the right. Probably in the order of 2 turns.

Tires - possible. On my list was to true up a set of tires I won't race for doing setups. Just haven't done it yet and way cheaper than setup wheels.
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
I don't even bother with scales on a 1/12th scale. I just balance the chassis using pins, make sure the side springs are set, make sure the lower arms are equal heights L/R, pod is square and tweak free, tires are trued equally, and then once is all said and done I do the coin trick.

Scales. I've tried it. I didn't like it.
Balancing a 12th scale car...

Remember, that solid rear axle and it's center chassis pivot should not be taken into account as a whole
Unless your rear pod is balanced (pita if you're switch motor brands often)

If using balance pins it's best to leave the pod off

Cross weights on a 12th scale chassis, not sure if that's something to be concerned about so long as your electronics are mounted as they should be, to balance the main chassis

If one side of the chassis is higher than the other, it is most often caused by a tweak in the front end, smashed spring, etc

The coin trick imo, won't pick that up, and may have you chasing the wrong area of issue
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Old 09-06-2015 | 11:10 PM
  #43233  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Balancing a 12th scale car...
Remember, that solid rear axle and it's center chassis pivot should not be taken into account as a whole
Unless your rear pod is balanced (pita if you're switch motor brands often)

If using balance pins it's best to leave the pod off
Very true RedBullFiXX

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXQslytMGrk
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Old 09-07-2015 | 06:22 AM
  #43234  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
The coin trick imo, won't pick that up, and may have you chasing the wrong area of issue
Which is one reason I don't rely on the coins.

I am struggling with THIS car but I have another one I'm not struggling with, and the one before these 2 didn't have any issues either. The cars I ran between 2000 and 2005 were fine and the cars I ran from 1988-1991 didn't have any real issues either.

It's just this one. The one take-away from all of it? This is an inline car. None of the other dozens I have run on and off since 1988 were. That right there tells me I should set it up as transverse and go but I don't want to give up that easy.
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Old 09-07-2015 | 06:37 AM
  #43235  
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Surprised no one has referenced this:

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.co...a%2012th%20Car

Slightly dated, but still works for me.
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Old 09-07-2015 | 08:34 AM
  #43236  
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Originally Posted by Drew Manzella
Which is one reason I don't rely on the coins.

I am struggling with THIS car but I have another one I'm not struggling with, and the one before these 2 didn't have any issues either. The cars I ran between 2000 and 2005 were fine and the cars I ran from 1988-1991 didn't have any real issues either.

It's just this one. The one take-away from all of it? This is an inline car. None of the other dozens I have run on and off since 1988 were. That right there tells me I should set it up as transverse and go but I don't want to give up that easy.
What car in particular are you struggling with ?
Perhaps I can be of assistance
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950
Surprised no one has referenced this:

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.co...a%2012th%20Car

Slightly dated, but still works for me.
I used to have many links to nearly every tutorial in my sig

Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 09-07-2015 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 09-09-2015 | 05:11 PM
  #43237  
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Default Associated 12R5.2 Steering Servo Choices

Hello all, just wondering what would be my best choice in regards to a steering servo for the Associated 12R5.2? What would be my best bang for the buck and what's currently available from high dollar to an economical servo that will get the job done?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-09-2015 | 05:18 PM
  #43238  
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Savox 1250MG is best for the dollar and extremely durable with all metal gears
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Old 09-09-2015 | 07:29 PM
  #43239  
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Default Servo

Futaba S9670SV

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LB2019&P=1
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Old 09-09-2015 | 08:37 PM
  #43240  
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I think most are good, Futaba, Savox...etc. I won't recommend the airtronics ones such as SRG-HS or SRG-HR. They are too small (in size) for the 5.2.

I have two 5.2 and two SRG-HS, I glue them on the chassis because the holes on the chassis for the servo posts are too wide.


Originally Posted by HK500Pilot
Hello all, just wondering what would be my best choice in regards to a steering servo for the Associated 12R5.2? What would be my best bang for the buck and what's currently available from high dollar to an economical servo that will get the job done?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-10-2015 | 12:23 AM
  #43241  
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Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW)
I have two 5.2 and two SRG-HS, I glue them on the chassis because the holes on the chassis for the servo posts are too wide.
What glue do you use?
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Old 09-10-2015 | 02:04 AM
  #43242  
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Originally Posted by ShadowAu
What glue do you use?
Use Shoe Goo...make sure to leave a lil gap between the servo and the chassis to make removal easier.
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Old 09-10-2015 | 02:54 AM
  #43243  
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I tried the shoe goo with setup with my sanwa servo. Didn't last long. Ended up buying the square rc servo mount. Problem solved
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Old 09-10-2015 | 03:01 AM
  #43244  
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Hmm. I ShooGooed the Sanwa servo to the plastic plate they provide.

Then fixed to chassis with double sided tape and screws. So far, so good.
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Old 09-10-2015 | 07:15 AM
  #43245  
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Futaba 9650 fits perfect on the R5 chassis

If using shoe goo method
I recommend servo tape under servo, with a dab of shoe goo on each side for security, this is actually the strongest mount system, the servo will never move
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