RMR parts can lower the 12r5.2 weight by 22/23 grams.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...-products.html

Monti

Cool thanks for the responses! Guess I could take the steel axle out and get down if needed.

I'm looking at purchasing a new bottom plate for the Plasma Ra 1/12. The stock chassis is 2.5 mm thick. Now, Kyosho has the option of a 2.25 mm chassis plate.

What conditions would you run a 2.25 mm chassis? I presume it will offer more chassis flex?

Damper tubes vs. Shock side-damper

Which one is the better choice for consistent handling thought out a race?

The reason I ask is, I was reading up on David Spashetts opinions on damper tubes and he mentioned damper tubes are very inconsistent after 30 seconds of consistent use. If so, then why do manufactures continue to use them in their kits? Why did team associated do away with their shock-side damper for damper tubes? I noticed Yokomo is still holding on to their shock side damper.

What are your thoughts on the two?

You must have a very light battery and motor, my Rev8 is nowhere near that with a Reedy motor and battery

Damper tubes are light, cheap to manufacture, and have low stiction. They also require more maintenance, at least in dirty conditions.

Piston-style dampers are heavier, more expensive to manufacture, and have higher stiction. But they need less maintenance.

I think the handling consistency is dependent on the individual damper or tube. A damper with high stiction is going to make the car very unpredictable. But a damper tube that isn't filled properly or tends to cavitate isn't great either.

I have run a triple-shock setup on a 1/12 scale and found it to work just fine, but the extra weight and complexity were there. With everything carefully assembled, the system worked great and the car felt like a 1/12 scale car. The system was consistent, but it's biggest drawback was it was time-consuming to change damper rates in the shocks.

As for the 'stick' in the shocks, mine were CRC shocks and I built them pretty 'loose', meaning green slime, polished shock shafts, only tightening up the seal just enough so it wouldn't leak. They would extend under their own weight, so i thought that was good enough.

I switched back to dampers to be able to quickly change the fluid weight. Maybe I'll try the triple-shocks again some time.

On these pan cars, the plastic that holds the center pivot ball on the rear pod, that should be done up tight right? How much play do you guys give the pivot ball?
In the associated manual, it says to slowly tighten the 2 screws so the mount can slide?

The center pivot will always try to move longitudinally as the motor pod rocks from side to side. On some cars (not all), the side links have enough elasticity that the center pivot mount can be tightened down without excessive binding. If the manual says to leave the center mount a little loose so the center pivot can move, then do so.

I usually tighten my center pivot right until the pod (without anything attached onto it) doesn't drop down on it's on anymore, then back it off 1/8 of a turn. The pod then moves freely without any play.

I found the center pivot on my TOP car to be very easy to adjust.

thanks guys!

A video of the last round of the BRCA 1/12 nationals which were held in the middle of a shopping mall to try and generate interest in our hobby :)

http://vimeo.com/87656931

Assocaited R5.2 1/12th car
 

Is a new car on the horizon, totally unavailable in the Uk ,even importer has none.
Any whispers.

Those GT looking cars...Are they Schumacher Supastox? They look awesome.