you ll like the car on asphalt , but you'll need a thicker
chassis for carpet. yokomo said they'll have one for the end of october or talk to dpowell here on this thread he has a silver plate that is 2.5mm stock is 1.9mm and trust me you will want it .

speedxl & or DP,

Is there a point when the chassis is too thick in 12th scale cars? What I mean is the no flex to weight ratio (is that confusing?)

E

HeY!!! i think that there is too thick though but i think that it depends on if you're doing on-road or oval w/ the car ya know....

Fike,
A chassis doesn't have to be overly thick to be stiff. It all depends on the way the material is laminated to begin with. The black carbon fiber that I use is .090", only about 5 or 6 thou. thicker than a standard 12L3 chassis but it is super stiff.

D.P.

I have a two bolt "D" ring CRC dif in my Carpet Knife. Can I just buy the 3 bolt hubs or do I need to get a whole new 3 bolt dif?

impact: ive only come back to frquenting this topic about a week and a half ago so i may have missed it if someone else posted the same question, sorry about that .... i dont usually have time to go back sifting thru a topic thats over 100 pages long, sorry about that as well.

anyway, .... i have used the search funtion here in rctech and got some reults from the HK thread oh and the last time it was mentioned here in this topic was 02-04-2003 by dtm as per search results. and read them but wanted to see if i could get some more info in case other people may have had experience with it as well.

just coz you say "sorry" at the end of a post after being rude dosent give you the right to be rude in the first place. if it was such a pain to give me an answer, then maybe you should have just ignored my question.

thanks anyway.

Whoa... wait a minute, the knife uses the exact same front end as the 10L3, 12LC, 12L2, and 12L3... so that is no excuse!! the differences are pretty much everything else, but the associated 1/12ths also have the same differences, so the front end is the only interchangable parts from 1/10 to 1/12th period. And if you can tune a 1/10th you can tune any 1/12th...

Also look at the Speedmerchant REV.3 and CRC 6-pack(if you like t-bars and strapping tape)

IMHO, go with a car that uses dampertubes instead of those stupid damper pucks!!! Once you go dampertubes you will never go back!!!!


PS. Strapping tape and damper pucks suck!!!!!

Sorry you can't take the time to read..... :D :D You want an opinion here is mine seriously now that I'm feeling better....

The shooters chassis is an almost direct rip-off of the Yokomo SP2001 chassis, so if it is made of the same material (all C/F is not created equal) it will preform well, however the only reason to go with that chasis over the YOK or IRS is so that you can brag to your buddies "I ordered it from Japan/Tiawan/Singapore/Bandkok....who cares they are all about the same...... of coarse as we all know there are some people who that makes all the difference to...:D :D :D

IMPACT: thanks

I've tried both and I prefer the damper disks, on asphalt and carpet.

Sean,
You could also get a Quad12 from D.Powell, but I think that you still need to buy a 12L3 and then convert it over to his chassis which uses damper tubes and cell rentention system that does not require the use of strapping tape.

speedxl... beat you to the shamless plug for D.P. :D

E

hey guys i recieved my quad12 today and i can say his machine work is impecable!
the material is of good quality iam building it tonight and i am going to run it this weekend at a florida state series race at minnreg where they will have the snowbirds track set up, i am exited about the car i a little teed of about yokomo's service all i can say guys if you want good customer service stick with the small companys d powell will set you up.

guys as far as the chassis the majority of the people wont notice a difference when you get to the point that you are consistant with your lap times and they ony vary by 2 to 3 tenth and no matter what you do to the car and you cant go faster its at that point you start noticing the funny things cars will do going into and through corners the car tends to feal like its diffing comming off a high speed straight away and when your in the middle of the corner it feels as if
the is whating to whip or diff, its a different feeling than running untrued tires but simalar. something i did was cut up and old chassis and hot glue to the chassis i was running and when i returned to the track it whent about 3 tenths faster alone and with a little more tuning (setting up for thicker chassis) i was able to find a car that was more drivable and not as nervouse
you need to know when you have confidense with what your driving (become one) youll be able to pay more attention to you racing than having to fight the car and making it a nerous expieriance, yes you can goe to thick you have to find a balance d powell is right you dont have to have a thick chassis the way the material is laid and woven will dtermine flex. i dont thick i encounterd to stiff on carpert but on asphalt we are constantly try to soften the car somewhat , i race a tc3 its milled not just to center the batts but to get a little more flex.
some of the yokomo guys had different top plate for their mr4tc 's to tune their cars buy taking stock top plates and cutting out ribs to get the desired flex.
but for carpet some used the carbon fiber on made by penguin because it made the car stiff. you ll need to experiment to find what you feel comfortable with.
:nod:

I prefer damper discs because of consistency, t-bar because of consistency , on aspault and carpet . I threw away the carpet knife after few runs and kept its front end, bulkheads and stuffs for my rc12, because of the inconsistent leaking-every run-imbalance damper tubes and unreliable linkage. anyway it looked cool! the red stuff.

David uses tape and he likes it , Masami likes it too. I think the design similar to corally battery hold down will prevent chassis flex . it is no good.

thats the main reason i have gone with the quad 12 chassis the battery brace is held with body clips and alowws for movement .

Speaking about the taping issue. I remember back in the day (80's) I had a 10L and had velcro battery straps from a company that I think was called Pure-Tech. The unique thing about them was in their design you didnt have to run the strap under the chassis so there were no clearance issues. I have tried in vain to find some of thier battery straps to incorporate on my 12L3 but to no avail. Anyone have any experience with these or know where to get them?