I am looking for a carbon shim to offset my motor 3mm to balance the rear pod. As I would rather not do it with lead ballast.

I thought some one used to make them but for the life of me cant remember who?

You really should use an aluminum spacer not carbon. Aluminum will allow heat transfer to the motor mount for better motor cooling.

Here's one that is 3mm: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1817

http://teamspeedmerchant.com/shop/pa...l/smr1458.html

It's cut from .063"

This one is 1.5mm aluminum, but you can stack them up, and the price is right:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWHZ3&P=7

The cooling done through the pod plate is nil, really does anybody have motor overheating issues anymore? The only good overheat in 1/12 I have seen recently was the result of 45 degrees of timing and 105mm of rollout on some poor Speedpasion MMM... and the motor still works after its trip to 210 degrees. (You know who you are)

I disagree about the pod cooling. If you temp your pod plate you will find its the same temp as your motor. That means its helping. Aluminum is the 2nd best conductor of heat (Copper is #1) and the motor pod plate has a significant amount if surface area capable of radiating heat.

Just like sedans the cooler you can make the motor the more gear it can carry without fading late in a race. I want to try putting a fan on my motor to see if I can go faster.

I also believe the motor pod adds useful area for heat dissipation, and every little bit helps.

The resistance of copper increases about 0.39% per degree C, and the magnetic strength of neodymium decreases about 0.12% per degree C. If we assume that motor power has an inverse relationship to resistance and a linear relation to the magnet strength, then each degree C rise will reduce power by about 0.5%. Reducing motor temperature by 10C via heat sinking (which is pretty easy to do) gives a 5% increase in motor power. That's quite significant.

I just assert that it's not worth it to worry about, really the motor plate has a very small surface area and an even smaller heat conducitve contact patch with the motor.

The cooling of the motor is done by airflow through and around the motor itself, the motor plate might be worth two degrees. According to my handy-dandy heatsink calculator, with a heat gradient of 50 degrees C and a cooling air velocity of 5 meters per second under perfect conditions the motor plate is worth about four watts of heat lost, the real value is probably less than two watts. Under the same conditions, a real motor heatsink with ten two-centimeter square fins (smaller than most touring car sinks) is worth 50 heat watts. You're not doing any cooling worth talking about through your motor plate, its really more of a heat dump in that it doesn't have enough surface area to effectively get rid of heat.

This isn't to say it doesn't do some good, but if somebody ever tells you that switching to a different motor plate dropped ten degrees on the motor they're probably incorrect.

Some good is better than no good...switching to a CF spacer would nullify any good that the motor mount could provide.

I made a lower pod plate (with added cooling fins) to try and keep the motor a little cooler over the 6 minute run with my GT10 car:



I think it is fair to say that the motor still gets pretty hot (!) but the fading because of that heat now happens slightly later in the run.

This plate is 6 grams heavier than the standard carbon plate but I also cut away quite a bit of uneccessary material from the main chassis which more than makes up for this extra few grams.

Cheers,

Chris.

if the motor is getting way to hot for use, then either different gearing is needed or a different manufacture of motor is needed....
some motors are more efficient than others and don't heat up because of wasted amps like some do

Hi All,
I am looking for some recommendations for a pinion gear for my new Plazma RA. Here is the configuration I'll be running, primarily on pavement:

Spur Gear: 64P-94T
Motor: ORION VORTEX 3.5T
ESC: ORION VORTEX R10
Battery: Orion Carbon Pro LiPo 6400mAh 90C 3.7V

Thanks!

I wouldn't expect 10 degrees C either. But I'll still take the 2 degrees C!

Hi everyone,

I have been involved in 1/12 for a couple of years now with my kids running an associated and a xray car. I am now thinking about getting a Serpent S120 LTX for myself.

My question is, can I get a recommondation from everyone on best ESC / Motor for this class. I was going to go with the D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla but I guess not now with ruling from ROAR. My kids run the Hobbywing 1S ESC w/ Reedy Sonic 17.5 motors. Wondering if there might be something better I may have overlooked.

Thanks for the feedback, love this forum!

Just getting into 1/12th again gonna be running a bmi db12r and looking for some gearing advice i'm running a murfdogg 17.5 with a lrp sxx stock spec v2 esc running max boost and timing not sure about tire diameter but it'll be the crc tires straight out of the box. Any help on spur and pinion size would be great thanks alot.