You need to shorten the ball cup ends. IF you don't the shock will be to long and it will not allow you to adjust for preload.Look at some of the picture of the car on this thread to se how the shocks look on them to get the idea of what needs to be done.

What shock length are you guys running?

shock length and angle are a very nice adjustment.the shock length plays a big part in how quickly and smoothly the weight is transfered and how smoothe the rear pod rotates in compound movements of front to rear compression and side flex.a shorter center shock seems to quicken the reaction of the car as a longer shock slows it down.a shock that is too short will react too quickly and create a twitchy push.i normally start short and increase the length until i am happy with the feel of the car.you will notice the change on corner entry for the most part.when you go into a sharp corner coming off a high speed straight and the car has a push to it or double steers,you can increase the length of your shock to slow the reaction down a little.what is happening is your weight is tranfering to the front of the car very quickly and then being releaved before the car sets into the corner.this is the reason why i have a long and short antenna mount position on my car.i found it to be a real good adjustment for different track conditions.shock angle is also a real nice adjustment.i use this adjustment to manipulate the amount of off and on power steering i have.i raise the front of the shock for more on power steering and lower it for more off power steering.you adjust this to get a good balance of on and off power steering and you should be set.hope this helps.

Hey, To anyone who has a Keyence Rapida Pro Speedcontroler I just got it today and I need some one to walk me throught to set it up This thing is a pain in the arse Lol... pm me and I'll leave my cell Number to walk me throught

hey mike,its real easy bro.pm me your cell or call me at the shop tommorow.that is an awesome speedo dude

Hey Jason ygpm Thanks

I am looking for a maual for a rev 4. Speedmerchants site takes way to long even on a really fast computer. Any help would be nice.

try again i did it ok and i dont even have the car

some of the pages are over 26 mb each

Hi guys,

I just started in 1/12 scale (CRC Carpet Knife 3.2r) and I'm beginning to prep the chassis. I'm wondering what pieces to sand and CA glue--just the chassis plate and lower rear plate or if I should also do the top plate, tweak plate, and fiberglass battery brace. I appreciate any chassis prep tips you guys can give me.

Thanks

I just do the battery slots, I've never seen a chassis split.

Many racers just CA the chassis and bottom plate. For good looks and a clean build it's nice to do all the other parts as well. A common practice is to bevel the bottom edge a little where it might contact the track surface. This will help the chassis to not grab the carpet when sliding sideways. A CA'd edge is easier to repair if it starts to de-laminate from an impact

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0 and you may like to read this.http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

Help, I just got a Fantom Quad mag (10dbl) motor to rebuild for 1/12 Mod. What brushes, springs, should I use. How much timing????? I have F brushes and also some Assoc 767s and an assortment of I "think" Orion springs". Various colors and and angles of springs. Thanks. Track is about 36' by 80' and will be fairly tight. I also got an 11single and a 12dbl armature with it. The armatures all look to be in good shape, just need to be turned. Thanks....

BE
TJ

I am not the best motor tuner, but I can tell you that you should start by getting a Team Trinity "Spring Thing", to check the springs you have. It will stop some headaches from happening, and sometimes springs are not always the rating they are said to be by the manufactuer.