I just got a few of the new CRC spur gears...great product. It uses 16 diff balls instead of just 8-12 so you don't have to run the diff as tight and not have slip.

got a 92x50 track running 13.5 blinky anybody got a starting point

Hell yeah Kwazy Wabbit Waces!! I had a Bud's beetle i mounted on a Black foot years ago...

Back up chassis ready for electronics

Anyone got some input on this shell? CRC LMP C60 Courage. I wanted a shell just for basic display and this one was marked down to 12 bux at the LHS. Just wondering if there was anyone that could comment on how well it may work (carpet). Doubt I'll use it as I wont find one again, and don't want to get use to it. But hey I was curious. I like the open cockpit design.

We ended up around 3.45-3.55 with cranked timing on a very similar sized track (D3s, Ballistic).

Personally, I ran a D3 with stock rotor @ 3.5 and it was very good. Speed-wise it was very competitive with my stupid fast fellow Grand Rapidians....

Mike Slaughter

thanks Roar Region 5 champ 12th scale champ! it was fun running with you last weekend in indy. hopefully Terry lets you run his car more offen. 12th scale and Paragon for life.

They won't let me bring my car into the home, if its had paragon on the tires.
It makes the other residents sick!

if I remember (and that's a push some days) right that was a HIGH down force body made mostly for pavement and REAL low bite. but if anybody else has a line on it please chime in.

A few years ago I bought a used Associated 12L4 and a CRC 3.2r with the hopes of getting into some 1/12 racing. Well, a pregnant wife, new job and a move squashed the hobby for a few years. Now that the kids are getting bigger and I've got some time, I was wondering if I can still run these cars.

My understanding is that most people these days run LiPos and it's probably tough to find 4 cell NiMh saddle packs. Both these cars have a Keyence Rapida Pro. I doubt the rapida pro can take LiPo cells but I just thought I'd ask.

I'm new at this so I'm not really looking to have pro quality equipment. I still have some brushed motors laying around that I can practice with so I'm not really looking into upgrading to a brushless system right away.

Thanks in advance for the advice.



Henry

-If you want to run NiMH and brushed motor, its still perfectly competitive and serviceable. Promatch racing still sells 4-cell packs in saddle or side-by-side pre-assembled in any arrangement for cheap, and I personally run a CRC 3.2R against the new technology guys with a brushed stock motor and NiMH, as compared to their boosting 13.5 brushless and 1s LiPo the two performances are very similar and does not put me at a disadvantage with the proper gearing. Just get a new set of tires, rebuild the diff and shock tubes, and race what you have. If, like me, you stick with it for a few months, then think about a new power system, for now just get into it.

As I pointed out in one of my posts earlier, I bought some 1/12 gear a number of years ago but because of life situations, didn't get a chance to really get into it. I have an opportunity to now tinker more with it so I was hoping you guys can help me out with some tire questions.

I've got a tire truer and a bag full of unmounted foams that I bought off of here. If I've got an old set of wheels that are completely unusable, can I strip off the rest of the foam and use the rims to mount some new foams? If so, what's the best method of stripping the rims clean and what's the best method to mount the new foams?

When I say I've got a bad full of foams, I really have a lot so I'd like to use them all before I start getting into ones that are already pre-mounted. Thanks for the help!


Henry

I did a little looking into it and yeah, it seems that it was a shell they were running on pavement. I'll just get some redbull decals and make it a display shell (since I'm going to be running pavement when the new track opens near me).

Ahh.... paragon

That largely depends on the mounting method used on the tires and the plastic used. The older sets used a contact cement type of glue on the foam so you could just soak the rims in lacquer thinner and the foam would come right off. Most of today's sets use CA glue and the rims don't take well to being soaked in a solvent. On those types of rims the best thing to do is use the tire truer and true down as close to the rim as you can get.

Hi Robert!
we really missed ur pics on rc50 this season!!!!

the C60 was our first body we do back in 2004.....wow long time ago....

didnt really handle good with lipo and brushless....but yes it was designed for the pavment worlds in Kissimee, we had 2 of them in the A-Main....Marc and Jilles...

Robert