Here ya Go
 

Try this for instructions

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog...hub_onroad.htm

Suntan lotion actually works pretty well and doesnt burn off as quickly as other tractoin compounds. however paragon works rather well (it basically melts the tire to make it softer, while suntan lotion more makes it sticky). paragon isnt that bad, only in the state of california does it cause cancer, so you guys in washington should be fine ;) . at some big races (like last years carpet nats) they did not allow it because people got nose bleeds and bad reactions do it, however i dont, yet i got nasty nose bleeds all week from the jack the gripper that they made us use.

as far as which suntan lotion, i heard that CRC tested out alot and found that Hawian Tropic (i think that was the brand) 30SPF worked the best, however all of them pretty much work the same probably.

as far as the IRS diff, here is the order of parts left to right (with the car facing away from you)

axle, D ring, spur gear w/unflanged bearing, D ring, right side hub w/ 2 bearings, spacer (the smaller side should be touching the bearing), diff nut

If you really need bite try this: Paragon, let it soak in for around 30 mins. and wipe it off. THEN apply Banana Boat SPF 50. The suntan lotion will glue the car down in the opening laps of the run, and once the tires warm up the Paragon will work its' magic and the car will be STUCK.

I've been running, (I'm almost ashamed to admit it), touring car this summer, and I've found that Spashett's Tangerine Tyre Tack works extremely well on asphalt, but not having tested it on a 12th scaler, I don't know if it would last 8 mins.

Stormperson-- your not supposed to be picking your nose with traction compound all over your fingers!!!:D :D :D :D :D

While mindlessly daydreaming at work here, I have decided that my new 12th scale car for this fall/winter season is going to be the Speedmerchant Rev3. Previously I have been running a second hand 12l3 and it is now well worn out and needs to be replaced. Just a few questions/concerns. What hopups do I need with the rev3? I will be running on carpet from medium to high traction. Will the stock setup work well? Or do I need other springs? Never had damper tubes before, what oil/grease would I put in there? Does it come with the kit? yadda yadda yadda... all the same questions... just too many posts in this thread to go looking for the answers :)

Cracker - the stock kit will be fine. You will need a couple of center springs, a couple of side springs, and a couple of front suspension springs. The center spring in the kit is the Wolfe Black. It is stiffer than any Associated spring for the VCS shock. Sometimes you might need the Associated copper spring for the shock. Orange or blue side springs come in the kit. These are also available from Wolfe. Just make sure you have orange, blue and white progressive springs for the side. The kit has Associated .020 springs for the front suspension. Add .018, .022, and .024. The dampner tubes use Losi Hydrodrive fluid. It comes in 3 grades, thin, medium and thick. You will use medium almost everywhere. Sometimes thin is the ticket when you use the orange side springs. I very rarely use the thick.

Good luck and good racing.:nod:

Cracker: The Only option I can think of might be lowered pod plates, which will just allow you to get a bit more life out of the rear tires.

As far as side Springs: If you keep a set of orange, blue, and white you should have all the springs you'll need for any track. The Shock spring I run varies based on track condition, the smoother the track the stiffer the spring I run, traction permitting. A CRC copper, Speedmerchant Black, CRC stiff silver, and CRC Super Stiff Silver are the ones I keep on hand. On really low bite tracks I've seen people run an AE Red, but I've never felt the need to drop that low. Front Springs, AE 18's, 20's, and 22's. God forbid you ever need a set of 24's.

Tubes: Get Losi Light, Med and Heavy viscosities of Hydradrive fluid. That is all I normally carry, but in some instances with Orange side springs I'll run 100 wt shock oil in the tubes.

I also know a few other individuals who use the Corally lubes, But I've never tried them as they seem far too viscous to me.

davidl: Beat me to it!! All this pesky work is getting in the way of my surfing! I started typing my reply minutes after Cracker's post but kept getting interrupted.

Perfect! Thanks. I guess I just assumed that there had to be some sort of spring or spring washer to keep tension on the diff and possibly a thrust bearing. Must just be my limited direct-drive experience showing (Tamiya F103). This seems like it'd be pretty rough on the bearings in that rear hub, but I'll go with it if it's what I need to do. I'll just have to stock up on flanged bearings for it!

anyone ever tried this on nitro on road foams?

what's spashett's tangerine tyre tack?

Trinity sells it,(of course), It comes in an aplicator bottle like Zip Grip and two hundred other traction compounds trinity sells. It's got citrus oil in it rather than oil of wintergreen. It's less greasy up front than Paragon and Red Dot. Red Dot however, creates too much bite for me once the tires get hot, and Pargon never really feels "locked in" The TTT kinda fits right in between those two.

I've tried it on "Nitro Foams" but never on a Nitro car. I use gas Foams on my X-Ray on occasion. (Usually Ellegi 40 shore)

Thanks for the replies davidl and CypressMidWest. I just wish I would have made this decision BEFORE I bought a whole new roll of battery tape! :lol:

Hey guys,

I just reloaded on Speedmerchant stuff. I have kits and all the tuning options in stock (All side and front 0.020, 0.022) springs, Black center spring, etc..). Contact me please via e-mail or call me!!!

Thanks,
Ray 1-888-551-1044
[email protected]
p.s. Please support your LHS or Track if they carry Speedmerchant stuff.

I wouldnt suggest using traction compounds for nitro just because it wears off after 5-10 minutes, and if you have a longer main then your car will change alot. maybe for a fast qual set up, but i wouldnt really suggest it, espically if you are still trying to set up the car for the main and going off your qual run.

as far as the rear axle... Ya, in 12th scale there are no springs to make adjusting the diff less precise, instead the range of diff adjustment from the loosest you would run to the tighest you would run would be around 30 Degrees, lol. but you basically want to run it as loose as possible without having the diff slip.

I am sorry, oh great CMW. Possesser of all 1/12 scale knowledge and information. I will repent by not posting again on something you can handle.:nod: :sneaky: :lol: :cool: