R/C Tech Forums - 1/12 forum

You never want to see any kind of drift or sliding in a pan car. That will wear tires and kill corner speed.

Also, you may want to try Trinity Zip Grip as a traction compound too.

good advice, that gives me a lot to work with this weekend. i will start with long thin fiberglass flex plates, light rear damping, gold rear spring and .022 front BMI springs, and small 2xpink tires,

i am curious if/when the stiffer settings (front and rear combined) are ever reccomended? it sounds like never? instead only use a stiffness increase at the front or rear for balance, leaving the overall suspension as compliant as possible.

AdrianM

02-12-2010 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avs (Post 6995723)

Going stiffer in the rear is done to make the car more aggressive. For example my car would be soft in the rear on high grip carpet to slow down weight transfer and mellow out the steering. On asphalt I would go to stiffer flex plates to really pin down the front tires on corner entry and gain turn in on a lower grip surface. The stiffer flex plates/side springs/t-bars on high grip surface would make the car darty and hard to drive.

You would be surprised to know that many of the top drivers like their cars to handle like caddy's not sports cars. A super aggressive car may get you one super fast lap but a mellow car that is easy to drive can let you string together 8 min of consistent, quick laps and that's how you win racers.

SlowerOne

02-12-2010 11:33 AM

Pan cars are the only racing chassis I know in any class of motor racing that has a hinge in the middle. Because of that, most, if not all, the Rules from any other class of model, or full-size, racing do not apply directly.

We usually ask for set-ups, not for cures to handling problems. If you ask for a cure to a problem, as you did here, then it comes as a surprise when you get the answer! That's because the chassis has a hinge in the middle!! HTH :)

Mugen10

02-12-2010 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianM (Post 6988999)

No, stiff setups on pan cars and sedans cause traction rolling due to too fast weight transfer when cornering. The traction is high, you let off the throttle, turn and all the weight of the car shifts forward and to the outside tires and pins them to the ground...over you go. All the energy goes directly to the tires contract patch as a sudden spike in pressure.

With a softer setup, you let off the throttle, turn and the chassis rolls. Some of the energy is absorbed by damper tubes and front springs. The increase in pressure on the tires contact patch ramps up more gradually and the car drives smoothly and more predictably.

Stiff setups also wear tires faster. Its all a balancing act. A fast car uses tires and suspension together.

That is some good info. I will look into the lighter setup. It just seems so ass backward:weird:

oeoeo327

02-12-2010 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mugen10 (Post 6997758)

That is some good info. I will look into the lighter setup. It just seems so ass backward:weird:

It does seem backward, but works quite well. Once I softened the rear suspension of my GenXL, it came to life.:)

Mugen10

02-12-2010 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oeoeo327 (Post 6997787)

It does seem backward, but works quite well. Once I softened the rear suspension of my GenXL, it came to life.:)

So are we talking about soften up everything? Right now now I am running the soft crc copper spring and crc red side springs. So I should go to white side springs? My track is small 50ft straight and tight corners.

oeoeo327

02-12-2010 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mugen10 (Post 6997838)

I've run on a similar track, using that rear spring combination. The reason I was using those springs was because the front end wasn't working. If you can get the front end to maintain consistent grip for 8 minutes, you might be able to use the white side springs and a lighter weight damper fluid in the damper tubes. Otherwise, you have a good combination for a tight track... What springs/tires are you using in the front?

Mugen10

02-12-2010 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oeoeo327 (Post 6997894)

Oh, I forgot about those.:D
In the tubes I am running 10K diff lube (ofna). As for tires Pink rear and Dpink front and Magenta front.
The car in fact feels better later in the race. At the start my car is a bit loose.

oeoeo327

02-12-2010 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mugen10 (Post 6997919)

Have you considered using a Gray-Low rear and using a little heavier lube in the damper tubes (maybe 20K)???

Mugen10

02-12-2010 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oeoeo327 (Post 6997942)

Have you considered using a Gray-Low rear and using a little heavier lube in the damper tubes (maybe 20K)???

I in fact run low grays with Dpink when the track is cold. When the track is warm the pink rears are faster. As for 20K I have used it as well but find 10K work better with the setup.

oeoeo327

02-12-2010 05:45 PM

Gotcha - that makes sense... The track where I run tends to gain a lot of grip over a race day, which is why I use the Gray-Low tire... Pinks become too sticky, and tend to slow the car down when grip gets really high. Driving style/setup preference also tends to be part of the equation, but each track has its own requirements.

It sounds like your setup should be pretty close to what you need.:)

Yokomo_Ant3

02-12-2010 08:00 PM

Booster switch?

Hey guys, wiring up some new gear in my 12th scale, and im finally (Attempting) to put a switch on my booster. My Question is, were do i put the switch, to the booster? I am using the small Hobbycity? booster. I tried directly to the speedy (Tekin RS-PRO). That didnt work. Can someone tell me were i have to solder it up to on the booster? Very confused haha:D

Thanks Antoni

JustMe2

02-12-2010 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 (Post 6998589)

Please correct me if I am wrong. Seeing that you are sending power to the Rx, my guess would be in the booster to Rx wires. When you turn off the ESC, you cut power to the Rx which should be the same for the booster.

TrevCoult

02-13-2010 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 (Post 6998589)

You need to put it on the positive (red) wire between the booster and the Rx.

Trev

Yokomo_Ant3

02-13-2010 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustMe2 (Post 6999189)

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrevCoult (Post 6999356)

You need to put it on the positive (red) wire between the booster and the Rx.

Trev