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-   -   1/12 forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/37-1-12-forum.html)

Carl Giordano 01-25-2010 02:36 PM

2 Attachment(s)
1s saddle pack Lipo by SpeedZone...works great. Only wish the jumper wire was shorter.

JLock 01-25-2010 02:51 PM


Originally Posted by Carl Giordano (Post 6906038)
1s saddle pack Lipo by SpeedZone...works great. Only wish the jumper wire was shorter.

Thanks for the pics. Looks good in the car. Will hopefully have one for my car shortly.

RedBullFiXX 01-25-2010 06:22 PM

Guess I rattled a few T-bars of my 12th scale brethren :sweat:

Just figured most everyone who happened to be looking into a NEW car would prefer the new link style cars.
What was I thinking :lol:

Of course there are other options if you're on a budget.

Carry on.

1 01-25-2010 06:37 PM

Just building up a 1/12, going to try it out.

I am going to run 48p on it, as I have all 48p pinions, and I am guessing you need to change gearing as the tires wear.

The car I have ordered is an X-ray XII link. What spurs fit this? Kimbro?

Also, running 10.5 on the Tekin. Any advice for a size spur to start with.

Cheers

mharlow 01-25-2010 07:38 PM


Originally Posted by 1 (Post 6907316)
Just building up a 1/12, going to try it out.

I am going to run 48p on it, as I have all 48p pinions, and I am guessing you need to change gearing as the tires wear.

The car I have ordered is an X-ray XII link. What spurs fit this? Kimbro?

Also, running 10.5 on the Tekin. Any advice for a size spur to start with.

Cheers

Ant,

Not too much wear at Windsor and there is a small window with gearing. So you probably will not need to change this on the night. I'm running 30/78 with 40 degrees timing with the Tekin/Duo combo.

wingracer 01-25-2010 07:38 PM


Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX (Post 6907232)
Guess I rattled a few T-bars of my 12th scale brethren :sweat:

Just figured most everyone who happened to be looking into a NEW car would prefer the new link style cars.
What was I thinking :lol:

Of course there are other options if you're on a budget.

Carry on.

You were thinking that new means better. Usually that would be the case but not always in the 1/12th world. I've been running a link car this winter but with the layout my track has been running so far and the introduction of saddle lipos, I'm thinking of breaking out the good old 12L4 again. My link car is killer in the really tight and twisty stuff but my current track's sweepy layout is perfect for a bar car.

VRacing 01-25-2010 07:59 PM


Originally Posted by wingracer (Post 6907700)
You were thinking that new means better. Usually that would be the case but not always in the 1/12th world. I've been running a link car this winter but with the layout my track has been running so far and the introduction of saddle lipos, I'm thinking of breaking out the good old 12L4 again. My link car is killer in the really tight and twisty stuff but my current track's sweepy layout is perfect for a bar car.

I'm with ya here. I've switched over to the BMI 12DBRR, a great car! I've driven Corally T-bars for 9 years until this season. No doubt, The T-Bar guys can be wicked fast, better be on our game with the 1s saddle LiPo. If anyone is looking for a budget 1/12 T-Bar, PM me, I'm shedding the Corally stuff on the F/S thread.

nails 01-25-2010 11:04 PM


Originally Posted by Mugen10 (Post 6899322)
I would think 16 ga. would be fine to use.

On the side note. Its not the voltage you have to worry about, its the current that is the killer. I am sure if someone done a search on the amount of current the wire gauge can handle. It would answer all the guess work. I am a bit to lazy.:p

Thanks. I've got a TQ 16 ga. HD kit on the way.

M.Abramowicz 01-26-2010 01:31 AM


Originally Posted by PDX-Spike (Post 6904940)
For actual tuning, Richard Chang's is by far the best of these and is very useful...to a point. It's only a single page and contains very little detailed information. There are some things that are missing, for example, bump steer. What happens when you shim side links only on one end?

You mean bump steer like in tc cars? It is same thing.


Richard also mentions under reactive caster, "...However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not setup properly." Ok, how do you set it up properly? No explanation is provided.

Thanks for the reply. Still looking.
Hm. I use 5deg set in my 12R5.1 and 5deg 10R5 and 5deg in last 12L4,
and it drive easier then 10. For me 5 is best option, but my friends (better
drivers) use 10, in X11 or S120 or CRC. I still don't know how to set up it
correct, I will ask my friend.

:)

m.

pakk 01-26-2010 09:26 PM

two questions

What kind of glue do you guys use to repair your tires?

What kind of weight do you generally save by going to aluminum screws?

InspGadgt 01-26-2010 11:06 PM

CA glue
A few grams

radio_car_racer 01-27-2010 04:58 AM

Twin Shock 12th at UK nationals

it's approx 6m 30s in

from a UK fourm


scratch built car by Ben Cosgrove

Yes its the BC12 twin shocks and side springs. Smooth rear pod movement quadrants work similar to the old T-Tech front end.
thanks to stewcc for the video

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

dr_speed 01-28-2010 10:35 AM

Anybody have links to videos of 1/12's running on Big outdoor tracks? 1/8 scale type tracks

MetalShield 01-29-2010 11:25 AM

Shot this video of my buddy Wally Edmonds two days ago and just finished the edit and upload to youtube...
CRC Gen-X 12th scale length 50sec... check it out! :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ6CRl_i2_4

drivingpro 01-30-2010 03:02 AM

Hey guys, I've got a bit of an issue.

I've got an LRP SXX in my pro12, and I just started running lithiums, i'm running a receiver pack regulated at 6v, and after the race my speed controller is getting up to 70 degrees celcius, and motor is around 55.

It's set to the smoothest profile. What would be causing this?
I'm guessing it's the higher amp draw from using a lower volt battery???

Anyone else have this problem?

running on a medium sized outdoor track, with a 4.5t X12. Thinking of putting heat sink on it.


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