Do you always try to run around a .08 - .10 split?

Normally I start at that because the rears wear faster. That way by the time the fronts are done, they are normally down to a 1:1 size. I dont like running smaller rears than I do fronts... in theory it shouldnt matter if you set your ride height correct, but I still dont like it. Also the contact patch gets smaller the smaller you make the rears.

IIC
 

Can someone please give us some insight as to how the various 12th scale chassis performed at the recent IIC. My interest would be in 17.5 and 13.5.

Also was anyone running the new protoform AMR 12 body and how did it work?

Thanks

12th scale saw a variety of chassis, including some newwer releases from Speed Merchant, CRC and other smaller MFGs. There were some prototypes there from OD and Shifty. All chassis seemed to be performing well.

I ran the AR12 exclusively, and almost put it in the show. The body is quite dialed. I still run it for club racing, as I did leading up to the IIC. Is it better than other bodies on the market? In some ways, however, it depends on what you like in a body. I suggest you buy one and try it out. If it doesn't work with your current set-up, change the set-up a little to see if it will actually work better than what you have when chassis is set-up properly.

car
 

anyone run the xray 1/12? i wonder cause it's a t bar car n that means no lipo unless u do side by side.. im sure lipo is best over round cell???

Rumor is there was a link Xray car running around. I dont know if its true but thats what the rumor is.

I spoke with the Xray rep at the manufacturer meet and greet at the IIC and he said something is in the works for a LiPo friendly car but could not say yet what it was or any time frame for release.

Tim Copp ran the t bar car with the battery on one side. There were prototype link cars there also :cool:

They told me there is a Pic on RC50 of Paul Lemieux, and you can see on his pit that there is an differnent kind of Xray standing :). Can't find the picture that fast...

Greetings Robert

Here it is:

http://www.rc50.com/modules/coppermi...9/picta009.jpg

Greetings Robert

Nice

How did It handel.

And how are you.

Alf :-)

come on there Gadget! spill the beans on traction mgmt!

Sorry must of missed that...ok here's what I did...but consider I was in the D main :D But I believe that had more to do with the driver then the car.

Tires were cut down to 1.7" in the rear and 1.6" in the front with the full sidewall CA'd to prevent traction rolling. In the rear I ran with Jack across the full back. In the front I only put Jack on about the inside 1/4th of the tire. I kept having problems where the Jack would wick across the tire too much if I did any more then 1/4th of the tire. At 1/4 of the tire it would wick to about 1/3rd the tire to just under half. I might have been better off with Lilac fronts so I could use more Jack and not worry about having too much. But I had already set the car up and figured out the tire so I didn't want to take the chance of messing things up.

Your problem with gumming up might just be the difference in the carpets used. IIC had brand new CRC carpet so it didn't seem to gum up too much. I've seen other carpets gum up so it could be a brand thing or could be how much compound is already in the carpet.

One of the main reasons front tires "gum up" is from heating up due to excess scrubbing. Too much rear traction may cause you to use too much steering (dual rate) which will heat up the fronts and cause the tires to glaze over. Try to get the amount of steering you need with as little steering input at the front as possible, this usually means freeing up the rear with a harder compound or stiffer set up. This is critical in stock classes since scrubbing tires slow the car down in the corner.

In Vegas I ran Gray rears and Lilac fronts. That was plenty of front tire for me and the rear was still stuck :cool:

suggest a rollout for a 10.5 GM Pro-Stock please using nimh batteries and Orion Vortex Race Spec esc