Teamcrc.com

I know this sounds simple and I dont want to insult you but, did you try the diff with out the tire ??

DK

Go ahead and insult him. Its fun, I do it all the time :nod:

crashby seams to be the norcal whipping boy. lol

Ok, Mr. Bodine!!

Here are the measurements you asked for on the Serpent S120.

Axle diameter = .25"
Threaded stud diameter = .157"
Length the axle sticks out past the hub bearing = .030"

What do you have that will fit?

What parts are needed to convert the two bolt axle on the associated 12LC to the current three bolt? Thanks

.030" is pretty short. The shortest delrin spacer I have in stock is the #101 kit for 12th scale at .140" over all length. The issue that you "could" run into is the nut may not get completely on the threaded stud. The included aluminum nut is a 8-32 about 3/16" thick or .1875". Add the .140 spacer and your threaded stud can not be any shorter then .3275" from the end of the hub bearing to work correctly. .157" sure sounds like the diameter for an 8-32 stud.

Truth be told, all the S120 drivers need is a delrin spacer upgrade, not an entire thrust kit.

Funny thing is... I did some prototype parts for Serpent back in '03-'04. Can't say that it ever worked out for me. Guess that's why I am doing my own thing now.

You can check out IRS's website for 3 bolt hubs and clamp hubs. Check to see if you need stealth rings or large ring. I thought the L2 was stealth.... but it's been a while!

The 12LC used the small Stealth Diff diff rings so you'll need a 3 bolt hub that works with those and a clamping 3 bolt non-diff side hub. IRS and CRC both make complete axle assemblies that would be much easier and better then using the LC axle with new hubs. The LC axle had a flange part of the axle that the diff gear spun on, the newer axles use a bearing there and makes for a much smoother diff.

All the new BMI Big Wheel pinions 45T-60T are online and for sale now.

www.bmiracing.com

I'm using a Novak GTX and Checkpoint Money 19T Motor. But I need to get the Silver springs and brushes to get a bit more tourque out of her

and I use CheapBatteryPacks.com 4000 mAh Batteries And I can get within .5 of a sec lap times from the big boys

Yea but it's getting that last half a second that will drive ya broke!:lol:

not really.. I am just starting out and I bought one of the "top" guys old card and I have done alot of research mostly on this site (way to go guys) anyways and I have just started slow. learned how to drive (coming from MT racing this is totally different) But I am getting better and as long as I can still improve even if it is only my Standard Deviation.

Getting the hang on the car and how it reacts to small changes is the key!!! to racing 1/12 scale. as afar as I'm concerned if your car is not setup correctly it really does not matter how well you drive you will not be able to improve.

But this being said the hardest thing in Racing is the mental preparation and calmness needed to get these speeding bullets around the track . I have seen it too many times when a top driver has a crash even a minor one then tires to catch up but continues to make mistakes after mistakes eventually loosing time and money due to broken parts.

I have tried to stay positive and keep in mind this this is a hobby and is supposed to be fun.

Wow that was a long ramble.

Cheery guys and thanks for all the help and advice

Tekin redline 10.5bl
 

Just purchased a redline 10.5bl
I run a Corally sp12x 4 cell with a an RS esc.Suggestions needed for roll out would be appreciated.

I ran a sp 10.5 in a rev 5 and was around a 61mm rollout.