Originally Posted by Randy Caster (Post 5197206)

Direct order is the only way I know to get them. I sent PayPal and had the thrust at my door 4 days later with the free shipping. www.slapmastertools.com

Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 (Post 5197293)

Oh Great.... now everyone is going to want one!

Actually, thanks for the props! The website just had a few updates. I have to bust out the iron and smooth out a couple things still. With the increasing variances in axles, I have had to come up with a few more thrust kits. Here's some quick references:

#101 will fit: these 12th scale cars; Associated, IRS, CRC, CEFX, BMI, Speedmerchant, and these WGT Cars; Asc 10R5, Speedmerchant Formula 10.

#109 will fit: 12th scale Niftech axles, Asc 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l converison.

#110 will fit: most known 10th scale oval chassis.

#120 will fit: CRC GenX10 WGT.

Brian

Originally Posted by Crashby (Post 5197646)

Hey, Brian!!

Which one fits the new Serpent S120?

Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 (Post 5196999)

There are two really good ways to mount up servos for ackerman reasons; flat and in the mounts. The CRC front end likes to be in the mounts (angled) according to testing. Many have called the Prostrut front end a pure carpet front end... which is hard to believe after the great results at asphalt worlds. Flat or glued seams to pair up very well with the Asc Dynamic front end. When going flat, try to use the middle hole on the servo saver. If you use the upper set, you increase bump steer flattening out the links. When you use a flat servo, you want to use the tallest ball studs on the spindles you can without interfering with the wheel with it turned. Ackerman on the servo saver can be thought of as various angles of a V. The center bottom of the V is the servo saver screw. Tighten up the V, you will reduce ackerman. Open the V up, you increase ackerman. When you mount the servo flat on the chassis, fore and aft location also creates ackerman which has more of a profound effect. If you were to stretch a rubber band front spindle ball stud to spindle ball stud and your servo saver ball studs just happen to line up with the rubber band, you would have the least amount of ackerman. Drag the center of that rubber band forward, you increase ackerman with link sweep. What does this mean? The least amount of ackerman makes the car more forgiving "from center input" at the tx wheel then more ackerman. If you need to more steering input after several other major adjustments have been made, consider your ackerman. Tracks that are lower in grip can use more ackerman then tracks that are gummy or like fly paper. The CRC front end has a lot of forward sweep, but then again, the steering spindles are a different shape.... so it all needs to be considered as a complete package.

Ackerman is a very powerful adjustment after the conventional adjustments have been made.

Brian

Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 (Post 5197796)

I haven't had a Serpent S120 in my hands yet. The proto pic's I saw appeared to have copy of my design.... so I expect you wont need one. But incase that it doesn't come with a thrust bearing, then I could recommend one if I get the spec's from the axle. Just in case it's metric, let me know that axle diameter, the threaded stud diameter and the length the axle sticks past the hub bearing. This pic shows the axle is .130" past the hub bearing as an example.

Brian

Originally Posted by Crashby (Post 5197823)

The S120 kit does come with a thrust washer system much like yours but it does not work. It goes into terminal bind when you tighten down the nut. I can't tell if the aluminum cap that contacts the outer bearing race is rubbing on the OD of the axle or if it is bottoming out on the end of the axle. I tried sanding down the diameter of the axle a little and put in 1/8th diff balls and it was slighty better but still not serviceable. It would still bind. Right now I am just using a CRC collar and doing the diff the old fashion way but I would like to use a thrust washer system if I can.

I will get the measurements and send them to you.

Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 (Post 5197847)

I wont lie, I have ran into that one of my kits. The difference between the 12th & 10th scale thrust kit is only .010" just to clear the end of the axle.

You say the Serpent car has an aluminum spacer from the hub bearing to the thrust washer? Is the a belleville washer or some other form of "crush" for setting tension? Maybe even a nylon nut?

If you are using a CRC collar, there's a good change my 12th #101 kit should work, but lets look at the dimensions first.
bb

Originally Posted by Crashby (Post 5197823)

The S120 kit does come with a thrust washer system much like yours but it does not work. It goes into terminal bind when you tighten down the nut. I can't tell if the aluminum cap that contacts the outer bearing race is rubbing on the OD of the axle or if it is bottoming out on the end of the axle. I tried sanding down the diameter of the axle a little and put in 1/8th diff balls and it was slighty better but still not serviceable. It would still bind. Right now I am just using a CRC collar and doing the diff the old fashion way but I would like to use a thrust washer system if I can.

I will get the measurements and send them to you.

Originally Posted by jorgesimes (Post 5197843)

sorry for this quick question, what is the best 1/12 based online store?

Originally Posted by Julius (Post 5198069)

Did you use the kit supplied balls for the diff?
If so I'm 99% sure your problem is not with the thrust bearing.

Use 1/8th balls and the diff should work perfectly. We've had some issues withthe thread running out prior to setting the correct tension. But I've not seen or hear anything being wrong with the thrust bearing setup.