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i didnt say it:lol:
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Originally Posted by protc3
(Post 3872448)
Wally,
Do you mean 3,000 on the king pins or do you really use 30,000? :weird: |
how did that happen? I posted after you.:lol:
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can anyone provide a ball-park response to my question below
Could you suggest a roll-out for a the Orion 10.5 and LRP combo...carpet munchin 90x40 size track.... I'm just switching over to the brushless systems and have no clue how to gear these things or profile to use with the speedo...I can see its going to be a long and hopefully not too frustrating carpet season. Thanks |
servo mounting.
Hey guys.
I was simply wondering why some servos are mounted at a 30 degree angle and some are mounted flat. Whats the difference? Am i going to notice a difference with my servo lying flat? Doesnt that lower the center of gravity? :confused: |
The servo mounting changes the steering geometry. Im not sure about the new CRC front end steering geometry(spindle location) but on the AE front end, running the servo flat takes ackerman out and adds a slight bit of bump toe in when setup right to make the car easier to drive on carpet or in higher bite conditions.
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
(Post 3872884)
can anyone provide a ball-park response to my question below
Could you suggest a roll-out for a the Orion 10.5 and LRP combo...carpet munchin 90x40 size track.... I'm just switching over to the brushless systems and have no clue how to gear these things or profile to use with the speedo...I can see its going to be a long and hopefully not too frustrating carpet season. Thanks |
Carl,
It's been a long time since I ran a 10.5 and that was a Novak. I think I was running around a 1.96 rollout for 10.5. Depends on the layout, rotor and how much steering you can handle. The biggest thing I've found for the high wind motors is gearing for lap times. Gearing for motor temp is not always the fastest. Also, in general, with the high wind motors I run low timing and more gear. |
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
(Post 3871706)
when i ran the L4 i always ran the thick t plate
the thinner one made the car wonder and push and just feel lazy on the thicker t plate i dident run the mid screw and this helped on bumps shock was mostly 20 or 25 wt oil with a red spring. olive for mod. 20 spring front with 30000 oil on the king pines :) I'm gonna try to run without the mid screw, but I'm running 30wt, silver spring, .18 up front and diff-lube on the king-pins. |
almost all t-bar cars are running the .063 t-bars now at least the guys in the show that is... makes the car really easy to drive. a little lazy in chicanes but thats about it.
most national races now have flowing layouts except for the indoor champs so its not a big sacrifice. |
Originally Posted by mtbboy
(Post 3872938)
Hey guys.
I was simply wondering why some servos are mounted at a 30 degree angle and some are mounted flat. Whats the difference? Am i going to notice a difference with my servo lying flat? Doesnt that lower the center of gravity? :confused: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=187997&page=2 |
The AE dynamic strut front suspension is designed to run with an angled servo. In this configuration you have zero bump toe and an a significant amount of Ackermann.
On asphalt this is a good thing. It makes the inside wheel turn in hard on low speed corners giving you more steering. On carpet this is a bad thing because the traction is much higher. You do not need as much Ackermann. All Ackermann does on carpet is hurt corner speed and make the car hook into corners because its dragging the inside wheel past its optimum slip angle. Running the servo flat generates a lot less Ackermann. This reduces wheel scrub and increases corner speed. The think to watch is the bump toe. The front suspension was not designed to accommodate a servo in the flat configuration so you have to compensate for this. This is gone by running taller ball studs on your steering spindles. If you run the middle holes on a small Kimbrough servo saver with medium height IRS ball studs on the spindles you will have a small amount of bump toe in. If you run the holes closest to the servo output shaft you will have zero bump steer. If you do not do this you car will go horribly pigeon toed as the suspension compresses and this will kill your lap times. So... Asphalt: Servo Angled Carpet: Servo Flat (with corrected bump toe) |
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
(Post 3872884)
can anyone provide a ball-park response to my question below
Could you suggest a roll-out for a the Orion 10.5 and LRP combo...carpet munchin 90x40 size track.... I'm just switching over to the brushless systems and have no clue how to gear these things or profile to use with the speedo...I can see its going to be a long and hopefully not too frustrating carpet season. Thanks |
Thanks for the feeback...61mm...for 10.5 brushless is huge...Mini's track is much arger than my local track...I'll try the starting in the 55mm range.
Thansk again to all those who responded to my question. |
To eliminate all the bumpsteer, it is ideal to have the upper arm and turnbuckle at the same angle so they are swinging the same arc. This is very difficult to achieve so just get it as close as you can without the wheel rubbing the ballcup when the wheels are turned.:cool:
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