2991Likes1/12 forum
10-15-2007 | 12:06 AM
Tech Champion
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
I am thinking of making a mounting plate for the different popular servos. I just dont like the sliding mounts too much. They are really trying to accomodate the different servos but i dont like that you need to worry about centering the servo.fixed position is the most bullet proof way of mounting. It seems that you guys are real creative with your methods of fixing the slipping issues. The thing is, It is really the die hard 1/12th guys like all of us that are able to do this because we know the importance. We all get creative in order to make things work the way the need to. We(The manufacturers) really need to start making the cars a little easier to work with. It is tough getting guys from TC and nitro on the track with a 1/12th when there is too much tinkering to do with the car to make it work correctly. These people seem to get into 1/12 and quickly get out of it before really getting a real taste of how great the class really is.
Right now i have my own servo mounts that allow you to mount the servo flat or angled and also set the turnbuckles where you need them to be. My problem is, They are fixed position and narrow you to having to run a futaba servo or any servo with the same center location as a futaba. I think i can make it work for a wider range of servos. I will be looking further into this. There has to be a way to do this that is simple and yet effective. I do not want to go with sliding mounts. I will let you know what i come up with. We need to make it easier. If we can just make these cars easier to get right, We will see the class really take off.
Right now i have my own servo mounts that allow you to mount the servo flat or angled and also set the turnbuckles where you need them to be. My problem is, They are fixed position and narrow you to having to run a futaba servo or any servo with the same center location as a futaba. I think i can make it work for a wider range of servos. I will be looking further into this. There has to be a way to do this that is simple and yet effective. I do not want to go with sliding mounts. I will let you know what i come up with. We need to make it easier. If we can just make these cars easier to get right, We will see the class really take off.
10-15-2007 | 12:08 AM
Tech Champion
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
10-15-2007 | 01:41 PM
servos?
Does anyone have a servo for sale for my Switch12 trinity pan car? I need one. ive been using the hs85-mg it turns fine but I can't use the servo mounts and have to go directly off the chassis. I would like to use the servo mounts that came with the car. I have been looking at the ko 949. But I haven't the slightest idea about any others that I can use.If you don't have one for sale i would still like an answer as to what I can use.TANX.
10-15-2007 | 03:31 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,662
From: Brampton ont canada
10-15-2007 | 03:58 PM
Tech Champion
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,191
From: Hawaii, USA
The Mx2 doesn't come with predrilled holes for the servo mounts and I don't have a 3550 to compare it to. It does appear to be slightly narrower in width and shorter then my 94145 but the output shaft is further to one side then my 94145 so it sits more to the right to be properly centered.
10-16-2007 | 02:26 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 237
From: Oslo, Norway
10-16-2007 | 03:40 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,662
From: Brampton ont canada
i like the ae/gen front end
and i think alot of ppl are gona go that way,with the upper arm long.
10-16-2007 | 10:52 PM
All that testing certainly paid off with 4 Rev.5's in the stock A-Main and of course the win. Steve Boice's car literally never slowed down and held an amazing amount of speed through the flowing/partial steering areas of the track. I can say without a doubt having that extra degree of adjustment was paramount to the overall success of the car. The new Speedmerchant front end actually has 3 different locations (image below) available for both linkages which really let you make some big changes that you just can't duplicate on anything else right now.
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/gra...v5New05sml.jpg
It's great to see people trying things again in 12th scale, that car looks very interesting. Great blend of ideas sir!
Nick
10-17-2007 | 01:35 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 237
From: Oslo, Norway
T*Star12
Thanks
wallyedmonds
Thanks
Team Kwik
I have to add that i do like the F1 design from Bruce.
And Bruce are a great! boy.
I did Somme redesign off my good friend Magnus Ass. / Trinity design front end from Laje
to make the upper arm look better and possible lighter.
I have picture, i can post it later if you want to see.
posted above. Alf :-)
But to add damping to the frontend i had to go the way i did.
I think off making a fix upper arm, in different length and camber and caster,
sow wen you want to change the camber you change the upper arm, and
the arm will flex more like a F1 Car, putting a upper arm like the CRC or Ass. arm
together and to get it 100% alike on right and left side even i use my mill to do it.
Are virtual impossible it always get a bit off on the caster, but having a fix upper
arm you can drop the arm on any car and you very fast vill have the exact same camber
and caster on the other car, like the old Corally SP12G3. KISS. you now
Alf :-)
wallyedmonds
Thanks
Team Kwik
I have to add that i do like the F1 design from Bruce.
And Bruce are a great! boy.
I did Somme redesign off my good friend Magnus Ass. / Trinity design front end from Laje
to make the upper arm look better and possible lighter.
I have picture, i can post it later if you want to see.
posted above. Alf :-)
But to add damping to the frontend i had to go the way i did.
I think off making a fix upper arm, in different length and camber and caster,
sow wen you want to change the camber you change the upper arm, and
the arm will flex more like a F1 Car, putting a upper arm like the CRC or Ass. arm
together and to get it 100% alike on right and left side even i use my mill to do it.
Are virtual impossible it always get a bit off on the caster, but having a fix upper
arm you can drop the arm on any car and you very fast vill have the exact same camber
and caster on the other car, like the old Corally SP12G3. KISS. you now
Alf :-)
Last edited by alf.skaar; 10-23-2007 at 10:27 AM.
10-21-2007 | 01:07 PM
CR'07 wins Rebellion Race 2007
CR'07 wins Rebellion Race 2007 in mod once again driven by Vesa Yli. This makes it 2 times in a row now. Congratulations!! All the cars in the top 10 were t-bar cars, no link cars (I did not attend LOL)...
10-21-2007 | 06:04 PM
10-22-2007 | 03:06 AM
Here's a Q?
I just installed the new IRS lower arms on a couple of my cars this weekend. I knew they were universal, etc, but I had NO idea how low they are. I'm pretty sure I"ll be able to run the fronts down until the bearing shows through.
What are people using to shim these up for initial tire size? Starting with 45-46mm fronts I was using TWO full packs of FibreLyte shims (6mm worth per side) to get my car to 4mm. While this isn't necessarily a problem, per se (though I need 2 more packs to do my third car
) I AM concerned that the 8-32 mounting screw is really only about half way (may less) through the arm at that point. I'm afraid a hard(er) hit could rip this out. Unfortunately these are the "long" Lunsford Ti mounting screws.
What are others who have these arms using to shim to height. I guess at this height I'm just needing "filler". Maybe it's time to dig those 1/16" washers back out that kits came with forever to "shim" front ends.
I just installed the new IRS lower arms on a couple of my cars this weekend. I knew they were universal, etc, but I had NO idea how low they are. I'm pretty sure I"ll be able to run the fronts down until the bearing shows through.
What are people using to shim these up for initial tire size? Starting with 45-46mm fronts I was using TWO full packs of FibreLyte shims (6mm worth per side) to get my car to 4mm. While this isn't necessarily a problem, per se (though I need 2 more packs to do my third car
) I AM concerned that the 8-32 mounting screw is really only about half way (may less) through the arm at that point. I'm afraid a hard(er) hit could rip this out. Unfortunately these are the "long" Lunsford Ti mounting screws.What are others who have these arms using to shim to height. I guess at this height I'm just needing "filler". Maybe it's time to dig those 1/16" washers back out that kits came with forever to "shim" front ends.