You like them mature and a generation older?!? :sneaky:

CRC buys their springs from Associated (AE). The diffrence is you get a pair of springs for $2 from AE and only one spring for $2 from CRC.

older the grape,the sweeter the juice :lol: :weird:

I just got my new BMI DB12R together...wow. Jason (protc3) did some amazing work on this car. Except for the screws, center shock and front suspension BMI machined every part. The pivot balls, pivot balls housings, flex plates, pod plates, threaded steel front axles, custom damper tubes and of course all the carbon chassis plates are all custom BMI pieces.

I talked to Jason today and he explained how his damper tubes use a smaller o.d. piston so you can use thicker damping fluid and end up with lighter damping. Instead of running 100wt oil and having it run out of the tubes over time you can run 5000wt and it feels the same and stays put.

The flex plate pivots have a big setscrew in them that presses on a delrin cup on top of the pivot ball to allow you to adjust the pivots so they are super free but have zero slop.

The kit comes with threaded from axles, IRS alloy pivot balls for the front suspension, IRS upper hinge pins, steel threaded front axles and an IRS rear axle kit. Most of this is stuff you buy after you get a kit to improve you car.

How about this...I needed to add lead to make it legal weight! With a light Parma Speed 8, Spektrum Micro Rx, IB4200, EA Komodo, Airtronics 94761 servo and Keyence speedo I needed top add 7g to make weight with a safe margin of error. All I added was an alloy screw kit in the low stress areas.

Like I said...wow :nod:

all I can say is - eeewwwww! :eek: :lol:

Not kidding indeed. I ran 63mm rollout today on our 95x48 foot carpet track and the car was slow, the motor only got warm. My team mate ran something like 71mm in the main without a problem. He did this with a 78 tooth spur (yes 78) and 39t pinion. It seemed to lose a little in the infield but was quite nice on the long straight and sweeper.
We've run the bonded rotor some with lower rollouts but it seems to fade a little and feels like a flat battery pack.

78/39 thats a 2:1 FDR!

I guess I need to get on the horn with RW Racing and get some 78T spurs on the way over here.

odpurple......you said

We've run the bonded rotor some with lower rollouts but it seems to fade a little and feels like a flat battery pack. ??

so does this mean you are running the sintered now ??


also.. where did he find a 78 spur ? and does it fit with the big diff rings ??

I think the biggest pinion i can get with my 88spur is 37..... and with 46mm tires that would give me a 60.7mm roll-out...sounds like i need to get on it, and find me a 78 spur and i am going to need to up my pinions... with 36 the biggest i have now.... wow.... that is a lot of gear...

Thanks again for the help !!

That's what I said! Honestly, I think he was over geared, it might be more driveable with at lower ro, but I didn't try it myself. :cool:
But outdoors? :eek:

We're using the sintered rotor.
The spur is a Robinson 78t. They use big diff rings, the drawback is that they can only accomodate eight balls. Not ideal, but usable.
I'm not sure about the RW gears that Adrian mentioned, maybe they have 12 holes?
The largest pinion you can fit depends on your car. I can get a 41 on my OD12 with an 88t spur, you should be able to get close to that on any t bar car. As Adrian mentioned, beveling the t bar will allow you to use a larger pinion.
Don't get carried away yet, this was just from today's race, I'm not sure that huge rollouts like that are what's right, but it is looking that way. :nod:

thanks again for all the help...

Interesting this topic has come up. We're trying to find a spec more favorable to newer racers. Bob Stormer has recommended the good 'ol Tamiya silver can, but said it has to be "geared to the moon" compared to what we're used to. I generally gear my 19-T for our smaller tracks in the 43-45mm range. Bob said to start the silver can at 55mm and work my way up. He figures 60mm to be about right. I dug through my stuff and found a 88t spur, but I'll need pinions in the 35-42 range to pull that off depending on tire diameter. I've got up to 36...having to borrow a 38 to run this today. No one locally has a 40 or 42.

Then again, why do I listen to ANYONE whose initials are BS? :eek:

I haven't installed a pinion yet, but I'm pretty sure the 42 will fit in there just fine. A 36 pinion has a radius of about .75cm, I've got over 1cm between the motor shaft and the spur with the motor shoved clear forward.

Scottrik

Hey guys, I'm new to 1/12 scale racing but we have a new Bass Pro Series starting up this weekend and I need help. I've got a 12L4 , purple (front),double pink (rear) tires, uncut. running 0.20 front springs, olive green center spring, .063 t-bar, c2 19t and kd 19t. The track is a large flowing track (gas and electric touring, plus 1/10 oval cars when it's adjusted for them). The track is the parking lot for the Bass Pro Shop in Pearl, ms, it has a 150ft back straight ( or longer) and has high grip. I need some suggestions on the spur/pinion comb to use for this track. I've been viewing this thread since about this time last year and have gotten a lot of good info from it. Any help would be appreciated.

quick question... those that run the Slapmaster thrust assy, do you still use the cone washer for tension, or run without? i got a car second hand with one, and there was no washer there, and was thinking it should be there...


Wes

No you don't use a cone washer. The plastic spacer compresses slightly and that's how you set tension. Just use a metal locknut like Associated buggy rear wheel nuts, and be extremely slow and careful when you tighten up the nut. The window for adjustment is a bit narrower than with a standard thrust assembly, but it's definately worth it.

-James