Oh no, here we go, everybody needs a toaster oven in their pits. And we're also going to have to deal with all of the "Who makes the best oven? " threads. Thanks guys

Well you gave me that advice yes
Wonderful how ppl can meet irl and then online :-)

When i ran the harder spring i did find the car harder over the bumps... that's why i don't want to make it even harder......

I didn't even thank you for the support at the track, so thanks for all the help there!

Shooter #AS040 Shooters 7075-T6 Lowered Rear Bulkhead Set For RC12L3/L4.
A new Stuff from Shooters.finf here

http://www.racing11.net/shop/index.p...h=23_28_58_345

Checkpoint 10x2

tuning the motor for 12th

what's the hot ticket for these motors on IB42's

darkside, keep this between me and you. It was a sunbeam

Hey I drive one of those on the street! So do I need to drive the british sports car to the track with the Toaster Oven so that I can get my car to have traction on carpet, or should I use Jack the Gripper on the Sumbeam's tires??

Darkside take the tape to HT-FC they are out and I need some for Wednesday.

Hey what happened to you Sunday? I made the trip just to see your car run fast! RRR, PRC and myself had fun dodging moving speed dots!

can anyone send me a pm with a cheap shop for tires!!
thx a lot

Not a word to anyone, I promise.

Grenade - Got you covered on the tape. Sorry I couldn't make it down on Sunday, I was getting a lot of future projects out of the CAD world and to the machinist. Going to try be down for some laps tomorrow.

-E

just done 1 more for the MX-12

ok 1 more

I like the second body alot.

Whats up guys, got a diff question for the experts on how to get these things dialed. I'm running the IRS diff with the lightened IRS rings. I sanded the rings to get them flat, and basically installed them with everything else stock, to break in a groove into the rings (I will be using ceramic balls and wanted to get them a little more grip on the rings) However, with the stock stuff I had a major high spot in the diff.

I'm going to be changing out everything that I used however, I bought Boca ceramic bearings and diff balls, PRS gear, and a Slapmaster thrust. Hopefully that stuff will take care of the high spot I had, but I'm just wondering if there is anything I should check for that is known to create a tight spot on the diff action?

Randy, I had a high spot once in my diff and it was due to the spacer between the hub and the thrust bearing being off. Also check the diff nut and make sure it's not crooked.

Good choice with the Slapmaster thrust bearing, it will make your diff butter!

I was kinda guessing it was the nylon nut not being perfectly flat on the spacer. Cant wait to get the Slapmaster thrust, I'm hoping it will cure my problem.

I've given up on nylon nuts sitting as flat as I want, even when I brace and thread them with a tap. I use aluminum nyloc nuts exclusively--what very little weight penalty there is is concentrated at the very center of rotation so it's effect is minimized. The key is they sit as flat as flat can be on the thrust bearing without loading one side or the other.

My nut of choice are the Niftech 5071 Low Profile Aluminum Axle Nuts, but your run-of-the-mill Associated/whatever aluminum 8-32 nyloc nuts will work.

If you INSIST on using nylon nuts AND on "threading" them by running them onto the axle, at the very least you need to remove the nut after "threading" it and use a sharp knife to remove the dimple of material that you'll find raised on the mating surface of the nut.

Oh, an 8-32 tap is under $3...works great on lower arm mount screw holes too.

Scottrik