Thanks for the replys. Yes it is the standard 12m front end I quess. The kingpin inserts into the bearings. I dont think I can ream them out butI will polish the kingpin themselves.

Thanks

IMO polishing the kingpins is the truest method. Just do it with polishing compound. I haven't tried sanding but my kingpins come out perfect...

12m.. doh! that's not an Associated front end is it? My reply is for the Assoc. style front.

E

monster stock motor
 

So... what do you guys like to do stock motors for 1/12.
Motor:
green springs, what brushes, cavity face, shave the pos or neg trailing edge, advance the endbell as much as possible.

ESC Settings: ??

Rollout: 1.78 / 45.2mm

E

You could also put the pin in your dremel and use the 600 grit paper that way. Faster and eaier. Just dont go buck wild on it. :-)

Its also a good idea to follow up with a polishing cloth if you have one.

Question. I've been looking at pages on end for the answer to this with no success. Question is, tubes vs. disk damper. Advantages, disadvantage? I converedted my yrx12 to tubes but dont run the car enough to really feel the difference. Any input would be appreciated.

~MI JEDI

Actually, it's not so much the disk on those cars as it is the T-plate underneath it. While both can work VERy well on high grip surfaces, it's on rough & low grip tracks that the T-Bar cars run into trouble. Because of the free movement in all directions that the damper tube cars offer, they can be adapted well to pretty much ANY surface(within reason, of course), but T-Bar cars simply can't flex enough to keep up. And even worse, T-Bar cars can also be MUCH more prone to being tweaked than damper-tube cars, because that fiberglass T-Bar takes a lot of abuse, & once it gets tweaked, there's no fixing it, you just have to buy & install a fresh one(& from my expeience with them, that gets old pretty quickly). Also, on another note more aimed at the disk damper, it seemed to me that while you could get them to work very well, it was always quite messy(always leaking whatever damping substance you use, whether it be grease or fluid, had to redo mine after EVERY run), while the tubes on my CRC Carpet Knife seem to hold the damping fluid quite well(better than I expected, at least), less troublesome & easier to keep clean. But on a good track surface, both are equally effective, IMO..... :cool:

there are tbar cars with tube. bmi 12, tforce, hyperform razor, the list is long

the disk is not messy if you use just enough lube. with too much lube you get the messy car problem.

the main difference with the disk vs tube is that the tube provides forward/aft dampening as well. where as the tube is more just side to side dampening. i prefered the tube because I can control side to side apart from forward/aft. i try and control the forward/aft with center spring/shock adjustment. the disk is a less maintenance. the tubes can be inconsisent from side to side if you do not build them right.

Here we go again...

The BMI car can run both so...Before the 2005 ROAR Nats at Speedline I ran every weekend for 2 months. I tired everything you can imagine on a 1/12th car. Like the guys below I was a big fan of the damper tubes. Jason asked me to test Tubes vs. Disks and I was ALWAYS faster with the Damper disks. Jason always runs disks.

At the Nats BMI drivers Paul Wynn and Fernando Gordinho changed from tubes to disks and went faster. Paul got 3rd behind Blackstock (2nd) and Lufaso (1st and TQ) running L4's. FYI, the L4 uses damper disks.

If someone tells me tubes are better I always ask, Did you test them back to back personally and did the lap time show they were better?

Just because something "should" be better dosen't mean it "is" better.

Agreed. No issues here either. Bought a supply for IIC Las Vegas because I have not wanted to go back to the others.

To clarify, as adrian said, having a t-bar car has nothing to do with the damping system incorporated. T-bar cars often run discs, but there are many with tubes as well. Also, to clarify, damping does not = stiffness. Damping is what controls the rate (aka speed) of compression and realease of the spring. This affects the reactive characteristics of the car more than anything else, not so much the overall balance.

I run a link car (SpeedMerchant), on which tubes are the hot setup without question. That said there are virtues to the damper disc, especially on a T-Bar car. When cornering and accelerating/decelerating you are producing forces through the chassis both laterally and logitudinally. The resultant vectored force receives more consistent damping with a disc when compared to tubes as the disc has 2 free axis of movement. Don't knock 'em. The downside is of course that you lose independant adjustment of the lateral and logitudinal damping beyond the additonal damping provided by the center shock.

T-Bar cars and link cars both have their virtues, just as disc's and tubes. I personally think the SM Rev 4.5 is the hot setup on carpet, but there is no doubt that many other cars are very fast on the rug as well. In the end, the most important thing you can do to "tune" any 12th scale is build it with meticulous precision. A collapsed front spring, a clicky center shock, sticky or empty tubes will all make your car feel broken. 12th scale is about the details.

i agree with both ed and adrian.being that there was talk of t plate breakdown i would also like to note that springs also collapse and will need to be replaced.link cars work very well but they are not invinsible either.im not saying anything bad about them.all i say is that if you peg something hard or just use the car normally for an long time,coil springs wear also.i have been running the same .063 t plate in my car for 4 months.i have not really hit anything.the rear pod does not flex very far so it doesnt get fatigued easily.what hurts t plates is impact. as far as discs vs. tubes,try em both and see what works better for you.i personally run discs and have for some time now.i have tried both and was faster with the discs. :cool:

Jason and Adrian or Whoever= what do you guy use for lube on the disks- in the past i have used, losi hydro fluid, 500 to 1000 1/8 center diff lube. whats the best or standard? thanks guys

My car a L4 is setup for carpet and works very well. Moving to a outdoor high grip track, would I want to stiffen up the setup or soften the setup? Tried it out last weekend and it worked ok but I think thereis room for improvement. This is stock Iam running on double pink rears purple fronts, silver center spring, 30wt oil, 20 spring in the front. Any tips would be helpful. Thanks Bill