Ok thanks for the help guys.....now when you wired it up did you just turn the swith on for the REC. pack and leave the switch off for the ESC? I know this is how its normally done but did not know forsure if it was the same way with the GM V12.

Kev- Will be running at Venture Lord willing Fri. night, Robk should be coming out also. Maybe i will come out again on Sat. Robk, Juch's and i talked about maybe going to Trackside on Sund. i would just run a couple of times before they start racing like last time unless you guys would like to run some mod.

Regarding the rx pack James used the GM with an rx i think so he would know but i'm pretty sure that it's the same as an LRP which is the speedo off and the rx on. Other than the extra 10sec of runtime the rx can really help some speedos like the LRP to keep the voltage up during the entire run. i ran for a while last year without one but put the rx pack in at Oktoberfast and noticed more punch from around the 4min mark on so every since last Oct. i've been running the rx pack. The GM may be similar whereas the Cyclone actually seems to run better without an rx pack.

RC nitro- SMC GP3300's are great and the durability of the cell is great so i would get a couple of those packs. UMH are great too along with HV's so you really can't go wrong but i think you will get more cycles (charge/discharge). Charge at 6amps for the GP 3300's and 6-7amps for the HV's and 5amps for the UMH's. DO NOT TRAY THE GP3300's but you can gain some voltage while losing some runtime by traying the HV's. i personally think that runtime is most important because you do get to a point where too much loss in runtime means an unusable pack and the small voltage that you get is only most important on a national level in the stock class it seems. On the damper tubes you probably want to run the SpeedMerchant/Trinity types for the Trinity/Speedmerchant, Associated car and the CRC types for the 6pk and CarpetKife and they seem to be on the new Yokomo and experimental Corally cars as well. Fitment may be more the key and the larger CRC's have to use thicker damper fluid than the smaller Trinity/SpeedMerchants so consider that also.

ActionRC- Glad to hear it, the guys here have really put some great info and opinions on hear and most of them can answer most any question you have and that helps us all when we share our thoughts and experiences.

DragonS- Hey dude how are things going? i plan on trying a couple of sets. maybe they will be a little more planted than a "double gray" which is a firmer gray like a Jaco but not as planted as a normal TRC gray and thus have a little more corner speed on high bite tracks while still feeling planted. Josh or Dieter would be some people to ask for sure. Will i see you at Cleveland?

nnick- something else to go with the stuff you've already been told is to consider just buying the older chassis plate, everything from your 02' edition should bolt on i would think that way you have the updated rear pod, 3bolt tires, and top suspension plate. i would also recommend using the link front end instead of the plastic one because of the ability to more readily adjust roll center and camber gain for extra corner speed.

Stevie- Sorry it took me so long to respond although i'm not an expert. LOL! Danny of SMC has the regimine on his website but the standard way is to charge NO LOWER than 6amps for HV"S because if you do they will be slow. For mod charge at 6amps and for stock charge at 7amps. For delta peak on 4cell packs try .05 which is about 12mv/cell for the Novak charger. i used a little lower delta peak on my Novak between 9mv/cell - 11mv/cell. These batteries like the GP's like to be warm to hot when you race them so the closer to your race they finish charging the better but i would only repeak if they sit for more than 10min before you race. i wouldn't equalize them initially but you should discharge them after every run as a pack down to 3.60v for maximum performance. Run them a couple of times per pack each race/practice day but try to let them rest between race/practice days for 3days or so to help longevity. Expect to lose around 30sec of your runtime after the first 20charges/runs in my opinion and by then you may want to start traying them to keep the IR's down and voltage up. That's another reason why i like the GP's (3300's) so much at this stage because they seem to hold their numbers for a longer period of time.

RCNitro- that was "i think you will get a few more cycles....from the GP3300's" because they seem at this point to hold their numbers longer but people have experienced this with some of their UMH's and HV's as well.

Darnold.....I wont be able to make Cleveland(as bad as i want to).....I'm looking for the Snowbirds now!!!!!Thanks for the commment on the Granite's.....our track got the Carpet Regionals...coming up in 2 weeks.

darnold.
thanx a lot for the charging info..
cheers
stevie

Tigger....thanks for the input.....I will be at Venture on saturday cant make it friday have to work. Sunday me and Jucha are going up to Trackside so if I dont see you saturday I will see you sunday maybe. And Im not sure on the running mod yet maybe later....give me a couple weeks of solid 12th scale then lets battle it out.

darnould: Thanks for the great info. I ran the 1/12 last night for the first time :D :D That was great! Know now why you sause the rear real well as I did not the first time and the car was way loose in the rear. I do have the .075 plate and the middle washer in the plate. Car was much better with saused rears and dual rate reduced 30% from full throw. I just e-mailed the track owner to ask if we could run 3300's. Right now he is not letting the AROCR classes or the ROAR TC class run 3300's. I want the GP's as my packs are old. Thanks for the recomendation.
I will look into the tubes. I have the tri shock setup now. The local oval racers that ran the cars told me to remove the tweak screws and just use the shocks. Is this good idea?? On damper tubes are they fixed or adjustable like preload on shocks? TIA

Question for 12L owners. Is the diff real fragile?? I er hit the wall a few times last night :p The rear stealth diff ring broke.... Is this normal? Is going to larger diff rings better?!? Thanks

rcnitro the diff it self is pretty strong. the outter bearing on the diff side will get damaged if you tap a board on that side causing the diff to feel gritty. suggest having a few flanged bearings on hand for the larger events. the diff ring should have not broken. the only time i have seen this is when tc-3 diff rings are used. they are a little thinner. hope this helps

mike

Mike, Thanks. I bought the car used and replaced all the rear flanged bearings. All 3 were bad. I have 2 extra's right now. The diff rings I replaced with the # listed on the manual. There is a chunk missing on the new ring motor side :eek: I will not get to work on the car till friday. Trick or treat tonight with my little girl so I will be busy. :) Thankfully the track stocks the 1/4x3/8 flanged bearings. the track walls are hard wood so you take a serious lick when you hit on the wall. Will the TC3 notched rings work?? They have these on the wall at the track and the 1/10 scale for the oval cars.

rcnitro the tc-3 rings will work but if you lhs has niftec or irs opt for them insted:nod:

Thanks Mike. All the stuff in stock is 1/10 scale not 1/12. I will check when I get to the tack

RC Nitro- if you are running on asphalt run the tubes and you can take the tweak screws out for some extra rear traction. If you are running on carpet keep the tweak screws in. Are you using the springs on the side shocks? The springs should act as the tweak system but i don't think they are as consistent and accurate on a 12th scale as the tweak screws are plus the side shocks are heavier. The tubes are fixed although you could do some adjustment to their length although i wouldn't recommend it. All in all i would use the tubes and Trinity Purple stuff in them if you are racing on asphalt and Trinity Red Stuff in them if racing on carpet.

Kev- maybe i will see you on Sat. and we could run mod there for fun a couple of practice runs. Have you or anyone else on the forum tried that new Trinity Stock Motor and if so what do you guys think of it?

Everyone- Hope racing is going well, has anyone tried the new TRC Granite rears yet and if so what did they think of them? Also, has anyone tried the new Schumacher 64pitch Titanium Pinions? Are they quiet because i'm thinking about getting a set.

DragonS- May not make Snowbirds for the first time, will have to see especially since i was planning on going to New England for the January Blast USTC race.

Jason Chang- do you want to go to practice at the facility 10min from the Cleveland track on the Mon. before Cleveland? If so give me a call by this Sat. i'm staying with Jari so i will be calling him today as well. How's your 12th scale going?

darnold i am not going to cleavland tis year.

Dave if you are going there on saturday dont forget that they are on a new schedule and they open at 10 or 12 and race at 4. I picked up two of the monsters on saturday and have yet to run them. I will run them this weekend and I will let you know how they work. I got my rec pack cells today 120mah NiMh same size as the 50mah NiCad along with another pack of sanyo 3300 hv's so I will have 3 packs to race 12th scale with now. Now all I need is to get a new servo and Im ready for saturday and I will pick that up tomorrow.

darnould: Thanks, running on carpet so I will keep the screws. Yes the shocks have springs aon the sides. Car was the oval car that was converted to on-raod. Oval uses 3 vs micro shocks. The 2 side ones in leu of the damper plate and the tweek screws. I was talking to the oval guys last night and that is what they told me. I think I need to get some damper tubes for the consistancy. Thanks for the info.