If you toggle the power switch does it do anything?

thank you pulfinatori found the problem dumby me i had the -neg motor swiched wit the - batrie wire

is dbl pink softer then purple or harder?

fjm9898.....Its softer then Purple.....DBL Pink is the same duro rating as Magenta....35 shore....Purple is 40 shore.

OD...... I had a horrible night racing tonight and I need your help. My LHS will have six days to get these parts and I need your wisdom.

Tonight was our last race for points and I went way too hot into the first corner, completely blowing up the servo saver, a-arm, rc12l3 chassis :flaming: man this is going to hurt the old pocket book.

considering the damage, would it be prudent to just upgrade to the L4 front end and chassis? I'm assuming the spare L3 parts I have will work with the L4. And if so, what do I need to get the new front end and chassis to adapt to my current L3.

I thought about the Rev4 front end but I have spare arms for the L3. So I'm not sure about going to a completely new front end. I would totally love to get a Rev4 but bicycle mechanics in Louisiana only make so much.

Man I'm down. I cost myself a 50$ gift certificate.

edit

edit

3.2r standoffs
 

Could these be the new standoffs for the tweakplate?


http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1293


Just measured mine and these are the same ones so I'm guessing they must be around .5" tall.

I dont know if anyone posted about this, but yokomo is releasing a tool like the race tech(Correct company) tool that puts the pivot balls in the arms.

I know the racetech tool is discontinued, but it is so easy to use that im gonna pick the yok one up right away

IRS makes the same tool and is for sale right now. I got mine from rc4less.

thanks for the help guys ! happy new years :D

The race to the first corner is one of the reasons I quit racing the Radio Shack cars. ;) Remember, you have 8 minutes to get to first. And 1/12th scale is gentlemen's racing, where everyone is polite and says please and thank you! :lol:

You might as well convert to the L4 chassis if you are racing on carpet. You will need the chassis (AE 4558) and the battery trays (AE 4563). You could change the bottom plate (4559) as well but the L3 one will work since it is the same thickness. The only different parts on the front suspension are the suspension mounts (the 0, 5, and 10 deg blocks, AE4561). I don't know if the other parts are from new molds or not, but every thing fits between L4 and L3. The front body mounts are different, the chassis is drilled for the 4/40 screws that hold them, you could drill and counter sink the chassis for the L3 mounts (8/32) or get the L4 mounts. You might want the chassis protectors (4560), the little plastic jobs that go under the front body mounts. There is also the front cross brace (4564), some use it, some don't. It can tweak the front of the chassis if the dimensions aren't perfect, so be careful.

I think that's everything, hopefully someone will correct me if I missed anything.

Here's to higher wages for bike mechanics in Louisiana!! :nod: :tire:-- :tire:

[QUOTE=odpurple]The race to the first corner is one of the reasons I quit racing the Radio Shack cars. ;) Remember, you have 8 minutes to get to first. And 1/12th scale is gentlemen's racing, where everyone is polite and says please and thank you! :lol:

You might as well convert to the L4 chassis

i did the same thing i killed the l3 chassis so i went to the l4
the l3 front end fits the only things you really need are the battery trays l4 chassis and front post
if you havent already i would go with the irs axel with the big diff rings

Please may I pass you tomorrow? Pretty pleeeeeeeeeeeze...:lol:

I'll be trying to pass anyone I can !!!!!!!!!! :nod: In the "B"main :cry: