No problem "Bunchbob"...:lol: Any of the new cars out there are good.... :nod:

Towerhobbies has it. Do a search "RC12L4". They have HEAPS of L4 parts as well.

But their search engine is really crappy. You really need to see your luck if you want to find something. The best is to enter the item# directly than 90% of the time you can find it.

I'm looking at getting a 2nd 1:12 for indoor carpet race only.

I'm driving a L4 at the moment and i want to try something different and i have my eyes on the CRC cars. Which CRC car do you guys recommend? I'll be racing mod and this car will be for indoor carpet only.

Our indoor track has quite low traction (probably lower than the our medium traction outdoor asphalt track) and no traction compound of any sort is allowed at all.

yellow

i have been using crc cars for about 5years they are one of the best out there .i have a 3.2R bloody knife and love it i use it for stock and 19 turn
. if you have any more questions about any of there cars just give them a call ,they will tell you which one is best for you.

Hey guys,

Looking for roll out on 19t and stock motors. Track is 70 x 36. I'm sure its on this thread somewhere, but its a huge freakin thread, LOL. Also, could someone post up the formula for roll out one more time.

Thanks Unfortunately i'm from New Zealand so calling them isn't the best option for me :(

And i hope some CRC owner can tell me their real life experience/feedback like the advantage and disadvantage/weakness of each CRC car.
Btw, i notice the 3.2R has a graphite T-bar? would it still break during a crash?
And the carpet knife is using somethign like a rubber band to secure the batteries!?? how good is it?

rollout= (tire diameter x 3.14) / (spur/pinion)

not sure what 3.14 equals in MM though, sorry

CRC 3.1
 

I ran my first 1/12 heats in 16 years this past weekend and the car made me look MUCH better than I am. I qualified in the B-main after two heats (no practice) but bumped up with a time/total that would have qualified me second in the A-main!! On my third pack.

I'd forgotten how much I loved DRIVING 1/12. I only got out of it then because it was such a battery war with the 1200SC batteries we had back then. It was cheaper and less hassle to race 1/8th gas on-road, so that's what I did. Then took a dozen years off...

You won't be disappointed with the CRC. Wonder how I'll do with it when I actually get it set up. :rolleyes:

Scottrik

25.4mm/inch, so:

3.14 X 25.4 = 79.76mm

BUT (and this is a BIG but) I don't believe you have to convert pi to metric ;) , just the tire diameter. Pi is pi. Or pi are round, or whatever it is mathematicians say. Pi is a fixed ratio (thank goodness or highschool Geometry would have been even MORE fun). If you convert both pi and the tire diameter you'll end up with a number that likely won't show up on any roll-out charts. Or if you convert pi and not the tire diameter you'll be similarly in error. Unless your tires are 3.14" in diameter...but I digress.

The tire diameter is all I need as I've got roll-out charts that accept both inch and mm diameter inputs. BUT...if you're really jonesing for some math you can do it all yourself.

Examples?

1.7" (tire diameter) X 3.14 (pi) = 5.34" (tire circumference) X 25.4 (convert to mm) = 135.59mm (tire circumference).

Now, let's suppose your buddy told you the guys at your track are using about a 44mm roll-out (1.73") for their layout. Circumference (135.59) divided by desired rollout (44) gives you your target gear ratio (3.93:1). Further, let's pretend you've got a 100-tooth spur gear on your car... take 100 (spur gear teeth) divide by 3.93 (target gear ratio) and you get 25.45 (desired pinion size). Now, I've HAD pinions that have a half tooth, but they're really noisy and not terribly efficient, so in this instance you'll have to round up or down. OR if you're REALLY anal retentive you can try a different spur gear and see if it lines up better with your target gear ratio. A 96 tooth spur would give a target pinion size of 24.42. Hmmm...not much better. A 92 tooth would give 23.4. Well, if you're THAT much of a perfectionist I guess you'll have to true your tires down a bit. We could do the math to tell you how much to take off of them, but it's making my head hurt.

Take the lazy way out...measure tire od and plug it into the chart and compare with what your buddy tells you is a good roll-out number. Assuming HE knows what he's doing...

Scottrik

Isn't rollout Tire Diameter X 3.14 X Pinion / Spur? :confused:

Both equations give the same answer...so I guess both are correct!

I remembered this link, www.gearchart.com

This is all you would need to get:

1ea 12L4 Chassis - part number 4558 - $45.00
1ea 12L4 bottom motor plate - part number 4559 - $10.99
1ea 12L4 Chassis cross brace - part number 4534 - $7.50
2ea 12L4 Battery trays - part number 4563 (these come by the pair) - $2.99

TOTAL = $66.48

I doubt that you will be able to find a used 12L4 for $66.48. That is all the parts you would need. The Yokomo YRX-12WE has all of the other parts. If you want to get IRS lowered pod plates, you can, but it's not essential to get started. You can order the parts direct from Associated.

Go to this website for more info: http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...hub_onroad.htm

Once you are at the site, scroll down to the 12L4 link and then download the drawings and parts list.

3.14 is pi. Pi is a universal constant, it doesnt have units

Oh..............yeaaaaaaaaaa, thats 4 years of engineering for ya, 1 to go :cry:

You are correct......and thanks for the detail information, and I will try to find these items....again, thanks. :)