Micro-E

iTrader: (4)

I keep one shock tower for each end, a pair of front arms, one set extra tires, body posts, and two front bumpers - because I use the rigid ones and they crack easier than the regular ones, extra wheel nuts and body clips, and extra shims and screws. These cars are darn near bullet proof. If I can drive it and keep it running for a few years with how hard I hit things- nough said.

Spare parts are very easy to find via losi parts house or stormer; and they are not expensive.

Can't comment too much on the belts. I ran the car with the yellow belt that came with the kit, but changed to the black HD belt because others at the track told me it was "better". I could not tell the difference though. Others may have more informed opinions...

Dan415ms

I run LiPo on carpet with foams and run the battery in the forward position. I've never had any issues with rear end grip, the car is superb. I haven't even checked the balance of the car - it must be heavier on the motor side!

Spares wise I carry a full spare G+ and a box full of wishbones, hubs, carriers etc.

I run the black HD belt with every other tooth cut out on my racer and the same but not cut installed in the spare car.

Spares seem scarce in the UK but there are still plenty in private circulation.

Dan

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

GI JOE...thanks for that track design...I set ours up that way during last club day and it was great !! Also my personal best day with the X that I've had in a long time. With the IRS Spool,new 10mm shocks and 4R pivot on front.. the car was fantastic on the twisties !! We race RCGT so 17.5 is the norm. On this day I had a 21.5 /Havoc setup simply because I was to lazy to change it !! I was able to pull on the faster 17.5 cars every time in the corners.
Weight bias...I changed it from previous. Installed ESC behind servo, receiver on top of servo and placed battery forward(4000 lipo hardcase). If you're still using the same setup from earlier...Are you using the shim or spacer below rear low roll center block?? I gotta wonder if that is critical. Reason...I run on natural concrete with no additive or track prep. The car runs high roll centers front and rear (John Chen setup on Losi Board). My guess is that Hodapp raised the roll center a bit for a reason. Not enough to cause traction roll but just enough to help rear grip. BTW, my car on prepared asphalt traction rolled quite a bit. Didn't change the setup just to experiment. Lesson learned.

Steve C...WELCOME to the group. I run the black belt in RCGT and maintain that it's the best choice BUT..2 things are more critical as I believe any of the 3 belts will be fine for stock,RCGT or VTA. First, bearing condition for the spur gear and the tension roller are critical. Second, never tighten the spur gear screws to much. It will bind things up. I tighten just to snug and also use thread lock. I'm going to experiment with the other 2 belts....I kinda wonder whether the thinner yellow flex belt might create less friction. BTW, I also brush dry lube on the tooth side of the belt. Apply, let dry before using. Seems to help.

Doog, Don't have much experience with the xxx-s one way but I have used it with no complications. Do you use the steel or aluminum drive shafts?? Do you have pin cushions or spades on the shaft pins? Wondering whether either would decrease stress on one way. Also wonder if changing pivot pin angle/driveshaft angle via 0/4R support would help?

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Car is loose:
Check rear toe in. Use Losi JRXS 1/2 degree rear hubs to increase it to 2.5 degrees if you are not there already.

with a ball front diff
Stiffen the front, move upper shock mount out, go to harder spring, or add sway bar.
Soften rear, move upper shock mount in, go to softer spring, or lighten up sway bar.

I like 2-3 ounces excess in the rear. Put the front on a beam on a scale and the rear on a beam on a scale and check this. I do run my battery all the way back. My corner weights are good. Equal left and right. Now forget the weight and do your tuning with springs and sway bars.

Tread1

iTrader: (18)

I've been telling Joe go with stiffer springs up front,maybe now he will break down and buy some.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Hey John, Thanks for keeping an eye on us. JRXS hubs ?? I guess I'll have to go check out the mod thread. Are they different from xxx-s 1/2 degree hubs ? I'm currently running 2 degrees (0 offset hubs) and 0 degrees camber all around. Really good tire wear. No death groove at all over entire day of racing.
Does anyone run with the same springs all the way around?? This was another change in my setup. 40w oil in shocks with very soft springs 10-12 pounds all the way around. HPI 26mm x-pattern pro radials. I kinds stole this idea from my schumacher. It seemed the great majority of setups for that car involved the same springs all around (whites,I think 10.5 psi) and usually light weight oil (40-45)in shocks. On our tight,technical track this was the best the car has ever handled.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Evo racer-You are welcome.
I could not find the XXX-S 1/2 degree hub for sale. The JRXS 1/2 degree hub is the same. (Yes this is also found in the mod thread). I use the same springs all around on the XXX-S. Not in the same position though. Soft blue springs to go through the bumps well plus medium soft sway bars to quicken the response and keep the chassis edge off the ground when traction is medium high. Any rubbing will reduce your cornering traction. I am outside on medium to medium high grip asphalt depending on whether the track is treated or not.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

And that answers my next question. I did notice a bit of chassis scrub with these very soft springs. The car rotated and reacted so nicely though that I didn't want to start messing with spring rates. I think my first choice will be to try some soft sway bars and see if that helps.

GI JOE

Thanks again for the advice everyone... John, it seems that our weight positions are similar with the exception of the esc. I figured some of the loose handling characteristics could also be attributed to the spec VTA tires. Maybe i'm not as far out of whack as I thought.
Tread1 had suggested stiffer springs in the front as well (which I dont have), so I changed position on the upper front shock mount (to the outside). This seemed to help alot and allowed for my fastest laps of the day. Its still a little loose, but not nearly as bad.
Now, if I could only master Tread1's passing teqnique... sliding on the drivers door in between two cars! Much like a crotch rocket threading the needle between two cars on the freeway!

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

Joe, if you VTA tires are new, dope them up with paragon and keep them in a sealed bag. repeat daily for three days. The oil of wintergreen softens the rubber well and the tires grip sooner than if you just run them. If they are older be sure they are not glazed up. A good cleaning make the world of difference. +1 on the front out and the rearar laid down. Also I have moved the rear arms forward to get a little more traction.

For cleaning I use lighter fluid on a cloth if the tires feel oily after a couple minutes I'll give a quick wipe with motor spray. I tried simple green but the tires got too sticky

Are you running on carpet?

What color springs are you running?

GI JOE

C&B RC, My tire prep and cleaning is identical to what you suggested with the exception of Jack The Gripper vs. Paragon. I am running the 1" green springs in front with the 1.15" silver springs in the rear. All shocks have 50wt oil. I can still move my upper front shock mounts one more position to the outside...I'm going to try this during tomorrow nights practice. Upper rear shocks are on the third hole in. If the last two remaining shock positions dont solve the problem, i'll be ordering some 1" purple springs and a front sway bar set.
Running on indoor carpet

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

Joe,
I follow your reasoning and I'll be interested in your results.

I run quite a bit softer all around on carpet.
silver-front, pink-rear 30 wt all around.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Hey, anybody out there got a line on a pair of swaybar sets ?? Losi part #s A4250 and A4251. I thought I had a set of each but apparently I sold them at some point. Now they're hard to find. It looks like hobby shops in Australia might have some. Any of you gents in Australia know a good place to get them??

Micro-E

iTrader: (4)

I tought I understood this, now getting confused on how to adjust spring rate and why. Here is my understanding - please feel free to correct me:

The higher the traction and smoother the surface, you want to stiffen things up as you are actually reducing traction (less weight transfer all around).

The lower the traction and rougher the surface, you want to soften things up as you are generating more traction (more weight transfer all around).

C&B says he runs silver (12 lbs) fr, pink(<10lbs) rr on carpet. I am running blues (14.6lbs) fr and rr on asphalt. I have never run on carpet, but all the setups I have seen online all have some crazy high spring rates. I guess I assumed all carpet had more traction that asphalt - by definition. Is my assumption wrong about the two surfaces?

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

Funny you should mention this..... The only explanation I can give is it's VTA tires. The VTA tires seem to like roll in the chassis. Since the XXX-S is a stiff chassis I soften it by running softer suspension. If I was running TC then you are correct: Higher traction = stiffer suspension. VTA setups are a little wierd compared to TC. When I started VTA (1 1/2 yrs ago) I was taking asphalt setups and just using softer springs per our fast guy's recommendation. Youtube hobbyplex and you can see my home track.