HVAC25000

iTrader: (19)

It's not a chart, but it has all the Schui springs listed.

http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/searc...&templateid=12

hth

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

here is a link for another spring chart http://www.rcingreece.com/index.asp?...ing_comparison

Arn0

Try this page, there is a TC spring chart

Logika

Motor could not be a problem it`s brand new some Lrp thing, but what the F.D.R should be because it seems i cannot put larger pinion than that i already have. I could mess with other gears because in my country we have no Model or hobby shops and this is Europe.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

yes its 1 post over yours

MadBrushRacing

Hi

Attached is my last carpet setup. It was very easy to drive but I need it to be able to change direction abit quicker.

What would you all recommend?

Also, what benifit is the middle hole on the steering knuckle?

Thanks

Tony

MadBrushRacing

Hi Skiddins

How did you get on at the weekend?

Tony

Skiddins

23rd overall

It was very competitive. Q 3rd in the C-Final, got two 3rd's and a 2nd in the finals despite being put back to 10th on the first lap of two of the finals.

Car felt great, new Komodo motor was fast but it it was very competitive, guy who TQ'd Mod the day you were there only managed the B-Final on Sunday!

Skiddins

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

i thought the silver ones had a different pin hence they were stronger or has schumacher making all drive shafts like that now?

also my old mi2ec has 2 degrees rear toe in on left side and 3 degrees on the right hand side (hudy set up station) any ideas?

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

First check to make sure you don't have a bent hinge pin. If that's not the issue, make sure that when you tighten each of the pivot blocks down, that they don't shift and turn at an angle. This can throw the toe angle off and cause binding at the same time. If both of those are fine and it's still off, I'd replace the rear hub and suspension arm on the side that is off. 2 degree is stock for that car with the alloy pivot blocks and the 2mm Euro chassis.

olev

Tony,
to change direction quicker you basically need the car to roll less, so that the transformation from one extreme to another would be quicker. This in turn means either harder springs or higher roll centre. I don't know what the HPI silvers are like, but IIRC they are extremely soft? The only HPIs I've used is pink front/blue rear, or Schumacher blue/blue, blue/white or white/white combo. You could also change the shock oils, now you have 10wt difference frt/rear, you could try 5wt difference or same oils frt/rear. Stand the rear shocks up more.Try using 1.2 rear swaybar and 1.4 up front. There's some things I would try, in more or less that order...

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

There is a different pin, but they made the silver bones to distinguish the old and new versions of CVD's. The bones never changed

CA

Change the rear hub to an Mi3 one. We have a few problems with the Mi2 ones.

RocketRacer

thanks for the spring charts Arno, Marcos and HVA!! it eally helped!

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

ok now im utterly confused
ok i keep shearing the pins of at the end that goes into the out drive. will the new drive shafts prevent this and or stop it?

also i got bored and started thinking cause ive been adding a heap of weight to my car (damn lipo) how can i measure balance left to right is simple use a string line hang the car balance but how to measure front to back and how to tell if one corner has to much weight? reason i ask is i have been running my weight on top of the battery but since im all lipo now im running it on the chassis so i out as much weight forwards and as far right (battery side) as possible this was to A)balance left to right B) to get more steering but how do i know if i have over loaded the front right tire now?
is this what they call cross sectional weight distribution?
cheers guys