Schumacher Corner
08-24-2004, 05:42 AM
#6931
The best way to eliminate the binding is to use a body reamer to taper the upper half of the yoke's king pin bore at the top of the yoke and the lower half of the bore at the bottom of the yoke. This reduces the bearing surface of the yoke and allows for the king pins to turn freely. It had no effect on the wear or durability of the parts.
top of the yoke like this:
\ /
l l
Bottom of the yoke like this:
l l
/ \
top of the yoke like this:
\ /
l l
Bottom of the yoke like this:
l l
/ \
08-24-2004, 09:07 AM
#6932
Tech Fanatic
anyone know when the aluminum suspension mounts will be out?
08-24-2004, 09:11 AM
#6933
Adrian:
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to ream them and CA them too so they don't back out. I'm a little wary about switching to aluminum on the hubs.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to ream them and CA them too so they don't back out. I'm a little wary about switching to aluminum on the hubs.
08-24-2004, 10:26 AM
#6934
coolrcdad - We've had them but we out right now. Will have more in a week.
edseb - Sorry, forgot to address the 2nd part of your question. When I re-assemble the front hubs I put a small drop of CA on the tip of a .050 wrench. I then used that to transfer the CA to the king pin threads in the front hubs. Let them sit for a few minutes before re-assembling. All you need is a little bit of glue to tighten up the threads. Of course be very careful if you have your drive shafts in the hubs when you do this...a CVD with CA in it is bad for handling
edseb - Sorry, forgot to address the 2nd part of your question. When I re-assemble the front hubs I put a small drop of CA on the tip of a .050 wrench. I then used that to transfer the CA to the king pin threads in the front hubs. Let them sit for a few minutes before re-assembling. All you need is a little bit of glue to tighten up the threads. Of course be very careful if you have your drive shafts in the hubs when you do this...a CVD with CA in it is bad for handling
08-24-2004, 11:01 AM
#6935
hello do you know if the pin that the blade goes onto on the plastic driveshafts for the mi2 can be removed? because i want to put it on some other drive shafts that i have
thanks
never min i just got it
thanks
never min i just got it
08-24-2004, 11:18 AM
#6936
Originally posted by AdrianM
The best way to eliminate the binding is to use a body reamer to taper the upper half of the yoke's king pin bore at the top of the yoke and the lower half of the bore at the bottom of the yoke. This reduces the bearing surface of the yoke and allows for the king pins to turn freely. It had no effect on the wear or durability of the parts.
top of the yoke like this:
\ /
l l
Bottom of the yoke like this:
l l
/ \
The best way to eliminate the binding is to use a body reamer to taper the upper half of the yoke's king pin bore at the top of the yoke and the lower half of the bore at the bottom of the yoke. This reduces the bearing surface of the yoke and allows for the king pins to turn freely. It had no effect on the wear or durability of the parts.
top of the yoke like this:
\ /
l l
Bottom of the yoke like this:
l l
/ \
08-24-2004, 06:54 PM
#6937
corner speed
This weekend I raced at the Regional 2 regionals, and experienced a loss of corner speed. The car ran great , just as fast as the next guy, but, those dang corners. No matter how round I was apexing the turn, it was not fast enough.
Is there a editable setup sheet for the Mi2 so I can post what I ran, to get some help from everyone. I can tell you this,
50wt frt and rear,
3 hole pistons stock
camber -2 frt and rear.
droop was at 3 frt and 4 rear
shocks were in inner carpet towerfrt
one hole from inside and carpet rear tower,
cells middle all the way in.
122/38 w Monster stock 60mm tires
no rear sway, aluminum rear arm mounts. Thats pretty much it. Car was stable, but not fast enough around the tracks turns. Anyone?
Is there a editable setup sheet for the Mi2 so I can post what I ran, to get some help from everyone. I can tell you this,
50wt frt and rear,
3 hole pistons stock
camber -2 frt and rear.
droop was at 3 frt and 4 rear
shocks were in inner carpet towerfrt
one hole from inside and carpet rear tower,
cells middle all the way in.
122/38 w Monster stock 60mm tires
no rear sway, aluminum rear arm mounts. Thats pretty much it. Car was stable, but not fast enough around the tracks turns. Anyone?
08-24-2004, 07:11 PM
#6939
We can offer some suggestions but you guys run foam on asphalt and we have never run foam except on carpet.
One problem that you had at that particular race was the combo of foam tires, asphalt and VHT. Latif from Trinity said the traction was insane there. He got His Mi2 dialed and finished in the top 5 in both the Stock and Mod A-Mains. I will as him to post his setup here tomorrow.
There is stuff missing from your setup...what springs, tires, traction compound, rear shock locations, lower arm shock locations, wheel base settings, diff, spool or one way, roll centers? We need to know this to make educated suggestions.
Can you fill out a setup sheet and email or fax it to us tomorrow? You can download it from www.racing-cars.com.
One problem that you had at that particular race was the combo of foam tires, asphalt and VHT. Latif from Trinity said the traction was insane there. He got His Mi2 dialed and finished in the top 5 in both the Stock and Mod A-Mains. I will as him to post his setup here tomorrow.
There is stuff missing from your setup...what springs, tires, traction compound, rear shock locations, lower arm shock locations, wheel base settings, diff, spool or one way, roll centers? We need to know this to make educated suggestions.
Can you fill out a setup sheet and email or fax it to us tomorrow? You can download it from www.racing-cars.com.
08-25-2004, 07:09 PM
#6945
Tech Master
paul man just wanted to say your cars looked great all week. mi2 waiting on you paul