RacerTex

I finished building my Mission and am wondering if the bell crank posts not being perfectly perpendicular to the chassis would make a difference to the tweak of the car. When I installed the top deck, it seemed that I had to "adjust" the deck a little to fit the bellcrank posts and then align for the other holes. When I built the steering bell cranks, I did my best to ensure that they were as perpendicular as possible. Should I try to rebuild them or is this normal? I did notice that it gave a little tension to the top deck before I screwed it in. Thoughts?

wilson10

RacerTex, well I had the same problem and was getting a good bit of tweak from it. Adrian said to take a 3mm drill bit and drill the hole on little feet where the screws go through. This will make them loose in the hole BUT will make it impossible for them to not be alligned b/c when you put the top plate on the posts will be alligned by it. Try this, it worked for me!!!

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Foam- please post your set-up, you may need more rear droop, heavier front oil, or many-many things, drive train drag isn't the only thing that can cause this...... Also , just in case, set your throttle position so that at rest it is just one "click" away from turning the motor over. sometimes we can dial in drag brakes without even knowing it.

RacerTex

wilson10,
Could you explain the solution more. Am I to drill out the bottom chassis or the plastic base of the steering bellcranks? Thanks for the help.

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

Tex-

Just enlarge the holes in the upper deck where the steering posts pass.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

RacerTex-Drill out the hole that the steering posts pass through in the feet below the bellcranks. Not the chassis or the top plate. This will allow the post to float and become aligned by the top deck.

FoamDonuts

I am using Ron Atomics CS27 carpet setup to the letter. So, it shouldnt be the setup at all, I have my radio trim already set so that it is one-click away from moving the motor. I am just going to run the car for about 7-8 packs and see if that frees everything up. Thanx guys.
IKE

FoamDonuts

I forgot. I saw this part on Speed Techs site and I am wondering if it will work on the Mission. This is my first Schuie so I have no reference.
IKE

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/63.html its the purple hubs if this link doesnt work

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Try taking an old stock motor, mounting it and the heaviest set of wheels/tires you can find. Charge up a set of cells and hook them up directly to the motor, letting it run until the motor won't turn anymore. Keep the car suspended with the tires off the ground.

Repeat as necessary, until the drive train is broken in until your liking, I personnally bolt up my Aluminum set-up wheels because they are much heavier than any set of wheels I own.

_neas_

I have a strange sound coming from the drivetrain on my Mission....It is not as loud going foward, but is really obvious going in reverse. Its like a crackling, grinding sound. I can't quite place where it is coming from. I have had most of it apart and then back together a number of times, but the sound is still there. The motor is new (P2K2Pro) as is the alloy 20t pulley. The motor doesn't make the noise when its out of the car and hooked up...and the motor mount screws don't go into two far and impede on the inside of the motor.

I adjusted the belt tensioner, really loose, then really tight...to rule out the sound being the belt slapping the chassis. It still made the same sound, regardless of where the tensioner was at.

I took any load off the drive train, unhooking the axles to all four wheels...so it went rear diff > pulley/spur > front diff with nothing else attached...and the top deck off so I could see what was going on. I aligned the motor/pinion up and made sure the spur was true (it was) and gave it a little gas...it sounded ok, then I went into reverse and it STILL made that sound.

I haven't taken the diffs apart, but they are new (less then 15 packs total) and turn smooth by hand. Putting my ear up to the car I can pinpoint the sound coming from the rear.

The oddest part is that it seems to be most obvious when going reverse...so if it was a bad belt, or pulley or something shouldnt it be grinding and crackling going forward as well? It might be making the noise going foward, but it is really faint...you can kind of hear it when you let off the trigger and it slows.

The car is stock, other then the alloy pulley....

Anyone have any ideas? Something obvious that I have missed? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks guys.
-s

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

well in general belt drive cars don't like reverse, belts wear pre-maturely, pulleys fail, just a nasty-nasty thing. Definately discontinue using reverse.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Adrian- You might want to give Dominic F. a call for his current set up for other team driver's coming to the nats. His car was on fire yesterday. It was pretty stable yet loose when he wanted it to be and the accelleration was great. I'm sure that Jeff maurer will get in touch with you to give you more details than I can give. Have fun and I guess I'll see you on Wednesday.

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Doms car was really hooked in the main...kept Chris T in sight the whole main. Finally found a stock setup that worked quite well, too...was up to third before 'pinball alley' claimed me as a victom. The Nats are only three days away and things are really looking positive Looking forward to meeting those who I havent met yet and seeing those who I have again.

RacerTex

Thanks Adrian and everyone who's given me tips. I'm hoping my Mission is just as close in setup as Atomic Ron's car. I have the advantage of having him or David Joor check my car over and all the other fast guys that run at Kinetix. Now I have to find a one-way to put into the beast. Thanks again all.

RacerTex

That tip did the trick! I'm a happy camper and I can't wait to run my Mission.