LRP SXX StockSpec ESC
#376
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I think maybe my earlier question was worded poorly.
What I'm trying to figure out is if the SS is the same as TC with added profiles for stock. I'd really like to be able to race/practice mod & spec without having to buy two ESC's.* The Tekin's feel with mod motors is not what I'm looking for. Is the SS that ESC, or will it not stand up to prolonged use with mod?
* I realize the SS would need a fan added to it.
What I'm trying to figure out is if the SS is the same as TC with added profiles for stock. I'd really like to be able to race/practice mod & spec without having to buy two ESC's.* The Tekin's feel with mod motors is not what I'm looking for. Is the SS that ESC, or will it not stand up to prolonged use with mod?
* I realize the SS would need a fan added to it.
#377
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
I'm running a M11X with the FHSS-3 receivers.
And just to further clarify, just running steady laps to get a good run to go down the straight it was very obviously off the pace slow.
In no way am I ranting about the speedo itself (yet), I was just being thorough in what has been tried and the results to hopefully get pointed in a better direction. There were a few Cleveland winners/multiple national champions on hand and we were all scratching our heads.....
Was it a MKII in 1cell? If so, and you feel it was good, I would feel 10x better...
Thanks, and prepare to feel the full fury of its slowness first hand tomorrow night!
Mike Slaughter
And just to further clarify, just running steady laps to get a good run to go down the straight it was very obviously off the pace slow.
In no way am I ranting about the speedo itself (yet), I was just being thorough in what has been tried and the results to hopefully get pointed in a better direction. There were a few Cleveland winners/multiple national champions on hand and we were all scratching our heads.....
Thanks, and prepare to feel the full fury of its slowness first hand tomorrow night!
Mike Slaughter
#378
Was it a MKII in 1cell? If so, and you feel it was good, I would feel 10x better...
Thanks, and prepare to feel the full fury of its slowness first hand tomorrow night!
Mike Slaughter[/QUOTE]
Haha, I'm sure it will be ok. and it is a 2 cell.
The real issue is that we are right in the thick of design and testing for these speedos, and we have the top 2 contenders doing it 2 diffrent ways. The tekin uses a setup that lets the driver tune. Personaly I am not a fan of this because a huge amout of "racers" have no idea what all these settings do. Myself included, heck most of us still can't tune a chassis. Again myself included. The LRP is a bit easier in this department more of a plug and play unit. Now a days with the industry hurting I personaly like the idea of plug and play. More time needs to be spent on the track, not on laptops, bench tuning and head scratching.
I also agree with the agressive driving angle, I myself am an agressive driver, hard into corners, light lifts, hard on brakes. With that being said I understand why alot of agressive drivers like the "infield rip" that the tekin gives, with the software you can make up for agressive driving by useing the speedo settings to alow for more bottom end. giving the "infield rip" everyone so desires.
I guess Im getting at the fact it is not to bash any of the speedos out there, if I was not competive I would of not even ran a tekin simply for the reasons stated above. Now to be on a competive level you need to have 3 speeods on hand to run what ever is the fastest this week. Also with all the settings we now have in speeods and brushless we are running into huge issues with setups and driving styles becoming more of a factor in how we put the power down. I could run a setup on the tekin from a factory driver and smoke a motor due to the fact I abuse the throtle and heat up the motor. Might be just as fast on the track but the end result is poor. Brushless is going to bring more of the top drivers out and seperate the field even further. And what works for one might not work for the other, brushless is still pretty new in the idea that nobody wants to control the speeds. it was easy before, stock was nice and slow, became a drivers war, and chassis and skill had way more to do with it. That is racing, and in every form of racing they limit HP. Our industry does not, it sets a limt on motor's but how we get power into them is not regulated, not that I think that is the answer as well. I think ROAR moving stock to 21.5 or slower is better. 17.5 is like 19 turn speeds from 3 years ago. and 13.5 is mod no bones about it. It's upto the "racer" to understand what his talent can handle. I run 13.5 and can't handle it. But I use it as a class to improve my skills, and understand how to drive with power. For years stock has been wide open, just hold the throtle pinned and never let go, (much) thats great, and how the class should be, you can't drive 17.5 like that, and now with all the speedo settings it makes that impossible.
Most "racers" are in love with speed, faster is better, not looking at the fact that a clean 6 min run with less than 5 tenths between hotlap and slow lap is what people should be shooting for. Once you can handle what you have you can add the power and step it up, but more times that not you go backwards, look at your one lap you got right and say, "Hey I went 2 tenths fast on my hot lap, it's better!" yet you sprinkled 8-20 secounds all over the track blowing lines and wrecking.
Everyone here will and does have their own opnions and testing results from when and what ever. The idea is to understand yourself and what you can handle.
Heck I drive with some of the best racers in the country and guess what, that are not always right. I take their input and use it to what works for me. I drove a car in canada that pushed like a dumptruck, and was about 1 to 2 tenths off "hotlap" but my race program was solid, and in the ballpark to get it done. I could drive the car, it handled pretty good, it had suffcent power to get it done. The "cards" were in my hands, run clean, no mistakes and leave as little time on the track as possible.
Basicly I'm getting at is in a few months or a year this will all be over, there will be 2-4 speeods that are fast and we can all go racing again. Don't let the speedo wars take away from working on racing. If you want to test equipment be sure you factor in the human part of math involved.
Thanks, and prepare to feel the full fury of its slowness first hand tomorrow night!
Mike Slaughter[/QUOTE]
Haha, I'm sure it will be ok. and it is a 2 cell.
The real issue is that we are right in the thick of design and testing for these speedos, and we have the top 2 contenders doing it 2 diffrent ways. The tekin uses a setup that lets the driver tune. Personaly I am not a fan of this because a huge amout of "racers" have no idea what all these settings do. Myself included, heck most of us still can't tune a chassis. Again myself included. The LRP is a bit easier in this department more of a plug and play unit. Now a days with the industry hurting I personaly like the idea of plug and play. More time needs to be spent on the track, not on laptops, bench tuning and head scratching.
I also agree with the agressive driving angle, I myself am an agressive driver, hard into corners, light lifts, hard on brakes. With that being said I understand why alot of agressive drivers like the "infield rip" that the tekin gives, with the software you can make up for agressive driving by useing the speedo settings to alow for more bottom end. giving the "infield rip" everyone so desires.
I guess Im getting at the fact it is not to bash any of the speedos out there, if I was not competive I would of not even ran a tekin simply for the reasons stated above. Now to be on a competive level you need to have 3 speeods on hand to run what ever is the fastest this week. Also with all the settings we now have in speeods and brushless we are running into huge issues with setups and driving styles becoming more of a factor in how we put the power down. I could run a setup on the tekin from a factory driver and smoke a motor due to the fact I abuse the throtle and heat up the motor. Might be just as fast on the track but the end result is poor. Brushless is going to bring more of the top drivers out and seperate the field even further. And what works for one might not work for the other, brushless is still pretty new in the idea that nobody wants to control the speeds. it was easy before, stock was nice and slow, became a drivers war, and chassis and skill had way more to do with it. That is racing, and in every form of racing they limit HP. Our industry does not, it sets a limt on motor's but how we get power into them is not regulated, not that I think that is the answer as well. I think ROAR moving stock to 21.5 or slower is better. 17.5 is like 19 turn speeds from 3 years ago. and 13.5 is mod no bones about it. It's upto the "racer" to understand what his talent can handle. I run 13.5 and can't handle it. But I use it as a class to improve my skills, and understand how to drive with power. For years stock has been wide open, just hold the throtle pinned and never let go, (much) thats great, and how the class should be, you can't drive 17.5 like that, and now with all the speedo settings it makes that impossible.
Most "racers" are in love with speed, faster is better, not looking at the fact that a clean 6 min run with less than 5 tenths between hotlap and slow lap is what people should be shooting for. Once you can handle what you have you can add the power and step it up, but more times that not you go backwards, look at your one lap you got right and say, "Hey I went 2 tenths fast on my hot lap, it's better!" yet you sprinkled 8-20 secounds all over the track blowing lines and wrecking.
Everyone here will and does have their own opnions and testing results from when and what ever. The idea is to understand yourself and what you can handle.
Heck I drive with some of the best racers in the country and guess what, that are not always right. I take their input and use it to what works for me. I drove a car in canada that pushed like a dumptruck, and was about 1 to 2 tenths off "hotlap" but my race program was solid, and in the ballpark to get it done. I could drive the car, it handled pretty good, it had suffcent power to get it done. The "cards" were in my hands, run clean, no mistakes and leave as little time on the track as possible.
Basicly I'm getting at is in a few months or a year this will all be over, there will be 2-4 speeods that are fast and we can all go racing again. Don't let the speedo wars take away from working on racing. If you want to test equipment be sure you factor in the human part of math involved.
#379
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
I'm just saying it is now going to be a looooooooong weekend of; "Paul, make me faster! Paul, which is the pinion, which is the spur? Paul, is it righty loosey, and lefty tighty? Paul, were do babies come from? Paul, which inner foams do I run in my dual stage black rears? Paul, are 1.8" fronts and 1.5" rears fast? Paul, how do I figure out the gear ratio for my hyperdrive belt system and which wires do I switch to reverse the rotation? Paul, is Lady GaGa a man, and if so, does that make me gay?" Etc.....Etc......
Mike Slaughter
Mike Slaughter
#380
I'm just saying it is now going to be a looooooooong weekend of; "Paul, make me faster! Paul, which is the pinion, which is the spur? Paul, is it righty loosey, and lefty tighty? Paul, were do babies come from? Paul, which inner foams do I run in my dual stage black rears? Paul, are 1.8" fronts and 1.5" rears fast? Paul, how do I figure out the gear ratio for my hyperdrive belt system and which wires do I switch to reverse the rotation? Paul, is Lady GaGa a man, and if so, does that make me gay?" Etc.....Etc......
Mike Slaughter
Mike Slaughter
See ya tomorrow!
#381
I think maybe my earlier question was worded poorly.
What I'm trying to figure out is if the SS is the same as TC with added profiles for stock. I'd really like to be able to race/practice mod & spec without having to buy two ESC's.* The Tekin's feel with mod motors is not what I'm looking for. Is the SS that ESC, or will it not stand up to prolonged use with mod?
* I realize the SS would need a fan added to it.
What I'm trying to figure out is if the SS is the same as TC with added profiles for stock. I'd really like to be able to race/practice mod & spec without having to buy two ESC's.* The Tekin's feel with mod motors is not what I'm looking for. Is the SS that ESC, or will it not stand up to prolonged use with mod?
* I realize the SS would need a fan added to it.
Paul
#382
Tech Master
chubbspeterson I agree with you about the setup.
It's for a beginner harder to find a setup for the Tekin.
But as you have one, you can drive almost every were whit the same setup and change the gearing.
Tekin is working on new software so you can chose your profile ad your speedo so you don't need a Laptop any more.
I had a LRP TC and it was fast in that time but that was also a good speed.
I hope that it goes back to 17,5T but even that is already faster than the 19T from 3 years ago but it is closer to that speed.
13,5 is now just like mod.
I drive 10,5T and I keep up with a 5,5T on the straight. It's just to much for me.
Now you need to be a mod driver to keep the car on the track and make a change to win. I'm afraid that this year the gap between the nr 1 and the last driver will be bigger.
A few years ago we drove with the Orion element 19T and the field was very close.
Last year we went already faster and you saw the gap between the drivers grow.
Yes every body want's to go faster but not every body can do that.
I have seen already drivers with a new speedo that went very fast on the straight but in the infield they mist every corner.
I had in the beginning problems to reach my fastest lap time.
I improved it but it took some time. More power doesn't always make you faster. In some cases it makes you slower. You need to learn to handle the power.
i drive now with my 10,5T if it is mod.
Stock driving style doesn't work any more.
It's for a beginner harder to find a setup for the Tekin.
But as you have one, you can drive almost every were whit the same setup and change the gearing.
Tekin is working on new software so you can chose your profile ad your speedo so you don't need a Laptop any more.
I had a LRP TC and it was fast in that time but that was also a good speed.
I hope that it goes back to 17,5T but even that is already faster than the 19T from 3 years ago but it is closer to that speed.
13,5 is now just like mod.
I drive 10,5T and I keep up with a 5,5T on the straight. It's just to much for me.
Now you need to be a mod driver to keep the car on the track and make a change to win. I'm afraid that this year the gap between the nr 1 and the last driver will be bigger.
A few years ago we drove with the Orion element 19T and the field was very close.
Last year we went already faster and you saw the gap between the drivers grow.
Yes every body want's to go faster but not every body can do that.
I have seen already drivers with a new speedo that went very fast on the straight but in the infield they mist every corner.
I had in the beginning problems to reach my fastest lap time.
I improved it but it took some time. More power doesn't always make you faster. In some cases it makes you slower. You need to learn to handle the power.
i drive now with my 10,5T if it is mod.
Stock driving style doesn't work any more.
#383
Tech Regular
iTrader: (47)
If anyone needs a SXX Stock Spec, I am selling mine. Its brand new factory sealed with receipt. I got it yesterday, so it has the updated MKII software. If interested check out:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7092226
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7092226
#384
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
The SS has mod profiles 0-2, then stock profiles. Keven Hebert ran the SS and the same car in both classes at the birds with a 5.0 in mod on boost 1 and then put in a 13.5 with boost 4 or 5(I am not sure). So yes the speedo can be used for both mod and stock perfectly. I know some guys who ran mod at the Birds and just ran their boost speedos and used a 10.5 and were plenty competitive against the mod motors.
Paul
Paul
#385
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Most "racers" are in love with speed, faster is better, not looking at the fact that a clean 6 min run with less than 5 tenths between hotlap and slow lap is what people should be shooting for. Once you can handle what you have you can add the power and step it up, but more times that not you go backwards, look at your one lap you got right and say, "Hey I went 2 tenths fast on my hot lap, it's better!" yet you sprinkled 8-20 secounds all over the track blowing lines and wrecking.
Exactly to the point!!!
#386
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
Offroad settings
There isn't much info about the SXX SS in the offroad section so I'm curious if you guys might be able to help me out. I've never owned LRP and I'm coming from Tekin. I've had a few issues with Tekin running 203 so I decided to give LRP a try and then decide from there.
What would be a good starting point for a Kyosho SC and RT5 for an indoor clay track? I like the idea of having set profiles, but I'm not sure where to begin for "feel" and "boost". Also, do I have to drop the gearing down as I go up in profiles?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
What would be a good starting point for a Kyosho SC and RT5 for an indoor clay track? I like the idea of having set profiles, but I'm not sure where to begin for "feel" and "boost". Also, do I have to drop the gearing down as I go up in profiles?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#387
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Snooping around
some places have them.. some places do.
Speedtech has it in stock.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...il.asp?id=9174
Speedtech has it in stock.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...il.asp?id=9174
#388
Super Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The real issue is that we are right in the thick of design and testing for these speedos, and we have the top 2 contenders doing it 2 diffrent ways. The tekin uses a setup that lets the driver tune. Personaly I am not a fan of this because a huge amout of "racers" have no idea what all these settings do. Myself included, heck most of us still can't tune a chassis. Again myself included. The LRP is a bit easier in this department more of a plug and play unit. Now a days with the industry hurting I personaly like the idea of plug and play. More time needs to be spent on the track, not on laptops, bench tuning and head scratching.
I also agree with the agressive driving angle, I myself am an agressive driver, hard into corners, light lifts, hard on brakes. With that being said I understand why alot of agressive drivers like the "infield rip" that the tekin gives, with the software you can make up for agressive driving by useing the speedo settings to alow for more bottom end. giving the "infield rip" everyone so desires.
I guess Im getting at the fact it is not to bash any of the speedos out there, if I was not competive I would of not even ran a tekin simply for the reasons stated above. Now to be on a competive level you need to have 3 speeods on hand to run what ever is the fastest this week. Also with all the settings we now have in speeods and brushless we are running into huge issues with setups and driving styles becoming more of a factor in how we put the power down. I could run a setup on the tekin from a factory driver and smoke a motor due to the fact I abuse the throtle and heat up the motor. Might be just as fast on the track but the end result is poor. Brushless is going to bring more of the top drivers out and seperate the field even further. And what works for one might not work for the other, brushless is still pretty new in the idea that nobody wants to control the speeds. it was easy before, stock was nice and slow, became a drivers war, and chassis and skill had way more to do with it. That is racing, and in every form of racing they limit HP. Our industry does not, it sets a limt on motor's but how we get power into them is not regulated, not that I think that is the answer as well. I think ROAR moving stock to 21.5 or slower is better. 17.5 is like 19 turn speeds from 3 years ago. and 13.5 is mod no bones about it. It's upto the "racer" to understand what his talent can handle. I run 13.5 and can't handle it. But I use it as a class to improve my skills, and understand how to drive with power. For years stock has been wide open, just hold the throtle pinned and never let go, (much) thats great, and how the class should be, you can't drive 17.5 like that, and now with all the speedo settings it makes that impossible.
Most "racers" are in love with speed, faster is better, not looking at the fact that a clean 6 min run with less than 5 tenths between hotlap and slow lap is what people should be shooting for. Once you can handle what you have you can add the power and step it up, but more times that not you go backwards, look at your one lap you got right and say, "Hey I went 2 tenths fast on my hot lap, it's better!" yet you sprinkled 8-20 secounds all over the track blowing lines and wrecking.
Everyone here will and does have their own opnions and testing results from when and what ever. The idea is to understand yourself and what you can handle.
Heck I drive with some of the best racers in the country and guess what, that are not always right. I take their input and use it to what works for me. I drove a car in canada that pushed like a dumptruck, and was about 1 to 2 tenths off "hotlap" but my race program was solid, and in the ballpark to get it done. I could drive the car, it handled pretty good, it had suffcent power to get it done. The "cards" were in my hands, run clean, no mistakes and leave as little time on the track as possible.
Basicly I'm getting at is in a few months or a year this will all be over, there will be 2-4 speeods that are fast and we can all go racing again. Don't let the speedo wars take away from working on racing. If you want to test equipment be sure you factor in the human part of math involved.
#389
There isn't much info about the SXX SS in the offroad section so I'm curious if you guys might be able to help me out. I've never owned LRP and I'm coming from Tekin. I've had a few issues with Tekin running 203 so I decided to give LRP a try and then decide from there.
What would be a good starting point for a Kyosho SC and RT5 for an indoor clay track? I like the idea of having set profiles, but I'm not sure where to begin for "feel" and "boost". Also, do I have to drop the gearing down as I go up in profiles?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
What would be a good starting point for a Kyosho SC and RT5 for an indoor clay track? I like the idea of having set profiles, but I'm not sure where to begin for "feel" and "boost". Also, do I have to drop the gearing down as I go up in profiles?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
the feel: is how hard the motor accelerates out og the corners in my touringcar om running 8 on a 17.5 X12 (-10 in timing on the motor)
the boost: is how much timming the motor is getting from the ESC again never tryed it in an offroad. and running 4 on a 17.5 x12 (-10 in timing on the motor)
i would start with the factory settings and gear 3-4 teeth less and then just test from there.
im still testing the esc and I have driven about 40 packs now. but im gearing much lower then the SPX and about the same as a tekin. and the car is a rocket, i have cut about 2/10 off my averege lap. and last place i testet i cut almost 0.5 sec off my fastest lap.
#390
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
i have not tryed a offroad for 2-3 years, but a can eksplain the feel and the boost .
the feel: is how hard the motor accelerates out og the corners in my touringcar om running 8 on a 17.5 X12 (-10 in timing on the motor)
the boost: is how much timming the motor is getting from the ESC again never tryed it in an offroad. and running 4 on a 17.5 x12 (-10 in timing on the motor)
i would start with the factory settings and gear 3-4 teeth less and then just test from there.
im still testing the esc and I have driven about 40 packs now. but im gearing much lower then the SPX and about the same as a tekin. and the car is a rocket, i have cut about 2/10 off my averege lap. and last place i testet i cut almost 0.5 sec off my fastest lap.
the feel: is how hard the motor accelerates out og the corners in my touringcar om running 8 on a 17.5 X12 (-10 in timing on the motor)
the boost: is how much timming the motor is getting from the ESC again never tryed it in an offroad. and running 4 on a 17.5 x12 (-10 in timing on the motor)
i would start with the factory settings and gear 3-4 teeth less and then just test from there.
im still testing the esc and I have driven about 40 packs now. but im gearing much lower then the SPX and about the same as a tekin. and the car is a rocket, i have cut about 2/10 off my averege lap. and last place i testet i cut almost 0.5 sec off my fastest lap.
is it fair to say your gearing the sxx ss about 6fdr with a 17.5?
boost setting on 4 seems rather low, do you race on a small track?
have you tried 10boost with a higher fdr?