Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
#301
Track Food
Oh, and I went over to RCAmerica and got a T3 today. You have every right to make fun of me if you see me running a VTA again.
Oh, and I went over to RCAmerica and got a T3 today. You have every right to make fun of me if you see me running a VTA again.
Kevin Hawkinson
#302
haha I was just thinking, we are on Paul's thread and I offered set-up help. hahaha wow thats funny. Maybe you should just ask paul.
#303
hi Paul
thanks for the tips I'm sure all racers appreciate your help.
thanks for the tips I'm sure all racers appreciate your help.
#304
Tech Apprentice
Paul is one of the best pro drivers,he always replies to your questions even your P.M's
#305
I was removing my reciever and severed the wire on my Futaba HRS receiver. What would be the best way of repairing this?
#306
fixed it!!!!!
#307
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Good to see you get an Xray Andrew. Now if you dial that horsepower down a little you will be set hahaha. It was good to meet you and have you come run with us over in Jackson. Next time you need to leave some trophies for the locals in 12th scale, WGT, and VTA. Let us know when you guys have a big race coming up and rocky terry, and I will come out and run with ya. By the way if you need any setup info I would be glad to share the little bit of info I have gained.
Kevin Hawkinson
Kevin Hawkinson
Thanks for having me. I sure learned a lot the last two weekends. I've been typing everything I can remember up and I am on a second page already. I will get ahold of y'all in MS when I know about our next race. I expect it will be in the fall. L8r
#308
Hi Paul,
I am going to be running Mod Rubber my T3 on a large gas track (200x100... controlfreakz.com) and had a few Q's (as havent really run mod much in the past 5 years)
1)What motors are you running now? I was going to go with an LRP x12 but havent been to a national race in a while and dont know what is good and what isnt, or if there have been any issues with any motors.
2)Do you recommend running metal spool cups? Or are the plastic ones ok? I have only run the car with a 17.5 with rubber tires on carpet and havent had any issues, but I assume outdoor with much more power and faster corners might put a lot more stress on the parts.
3)So far I have just run 13.5 on the track and my front tires wore considerably more than my rears probably due to the large amount of long high speed corners, is there anything in particular you would recommend, besides trying to be as smooth and scrub as little as possible, such as set up wise, to even out the tire wear, or is there no way around it?
4)With a fresh pack, is it okay to recharge the same pack all day, or am I losing a lot of voltage and run time by doing so?
Thanks Paul,
Mark Strasnick
I am going to be running Mod Rubber my T3 on a large gas track (200x100... controlfreakz.com) and had a few Q's (as havent really run mod much in the past 5 years)
1)What motors are you running now? I was going to go with an LRP x12 but havent been to a national race in a while and dont know what is good and what isnt, or if there have been any issues with any motors.
2)Do you recommend running metal spool cups? Or are the plastic ones ok? I have only run the car with a 17.5 with rubber tires on carpet and havent had any issues, but I assume outdoor with much more power and faster corners might put a lot more stress on the parts.
3)So far I have just run 13.5 on the track and my front tires wore considerably more than my rears probably due to the large amount of long high speed corners, is there anything in particular you would recommend, besides trying to be as smooth and scrub as little as possible, such as set up wise, to even out the tire wear, or is there no way around it?
4)With a fresh pack, is it okay to recharge the same pack all day, or am I losing a lot of voltage and run time by doing so?
Thanks Paul,
Mark Strasnick
#309
Hi Paul, congrats on the weekend. I really wanted to thank you for helping me this weekend..After I replaced the servo like you suggested it was money until i was packed.. You never have a problem helping people when they need it, I know i appreciate it as does everyone else. Thats what makes you great. Thank you again..Richard
Track Food
Oh, and I went over to RCAmerica and got a T3 today. You have every right to make fun of me if you see me running a VTA again.
Oh, and I went over to RCAmerica and got a T3 today. You have every right to make fun of me if you see me running a VTA again.
no problem, hopefully it helps more than 50% of the time. LOL
Cool
Hi Paul,
I am going to be running Mod Rubber my T3 on a large gas track (200x100... controlfreakz.com) and had a few Q's (as havent really run mod much in the past 5 years)
1)What motors are you running now? I was going to go with an LRP x12 but havent been to a national race in a while and dont know what is good and what isnt, or if there have been any issues with any motors.
2)Do you recommend running metal spool cups? Or are the plastic ones ok? I have only run the car with a 17.5 with rubber tires on carpet and havent had any issues, but I assume outdoor with much more power and faster corners might put a lot more stress on the parts.
3)So far I have just run 13.5 on the track and my front tires wore considerably more than my rears probably due to the large amount of long high speed corners, is there anything in particular you would recommend, besides trying to be as smooth and scrub as little as possible, such as set up wise, to even out the tire wear, or is there no way around it?
4)With a fresh pack, is it okay to recharge the same pack all day, or am I losing a lot of voltage and run time by doing so?
Thanks Paul,
Mark Strasnick
I am going to be running Mod Rubber my T3 on a large gas track (200x100... controlfreakz.com) and had a few Q's (as havent really run mod much in the past 5 years)
1)What motors are you running now? I was going to go with an LRP x12 but havent been to a national race in a while and dont know what is good and what isnt, or if there have been any issues with any motors.
2)Do you recommend running metal spool cups? Or are the plastic ones ok? I have only run the car with a 17.5 with rubber tires on carpet and havent had any issues, but I assume outdoor with much more power and faster corners might put a lot more stress on the parts.
3)So far I have just run 13.5 on the track and my front tires wore considerably more than my rears probably due to the large amount of long high speed corners, is there anything in particular you would recommend, besides trying to be as smooth and scrub as little as possible, such as set up wise, to even out the tire wear, or is there no way around it?
4)With a fresh pack, is it okay to recharge the same pack all day, or am I losing a lot of voltage and run time by doing so?
Thanks Paul,
Mark Strasnick
1 i have still been using the nemisis mod's and they work well. any mod on the market will be fast, some just might not blow up as easy and are able to handle 220degs if it somehow gets that hot. i dont think you could go wrong with any of them.
2) the plastic outdrives will work but they do stand a chance of breaking, and (especially in mod) will wear inside and eventually bind. the aluminum ones should last forever as long as you replace the blades every once in a while to make sure that the pin dosent hit the outdrive and mark it up.
3) the front tires wearing more is kinda nature of the beast, but things like thicker rear shock oil and softer front shock oil can help the cause along with maybe softer front spring or a stiffer rear spring if the car will still handle ok. the thing is to try and get the car to steer the same the whole run. if my car has good steering up front but pushes at the end i would first try thicker rear oil and or thinner front to try and close the gap of Tire temp from front to rear bc obviously the front tires are getting too hot and loosing grip as the run goes on. more rear toe could also do the same thing (get the rear tires hotter and maybe provide more steering at the end). But honestly, im prolly not the guy to ask consittering my not so success on asphalt. lets see a little copy and paist from the Jilles thread on this one, LOL.
4) i use the same battery pretty much all the time, i think that they are best for power on the 2nd or 3rd charge of the day, for 12th scale mod i may worry about some possible run time loss but for TC i wouldnt worry atall.
No problem!
#310
Thanks for the advice Paul, I really appreciate it!
As far as motors go, do you find fans are a noticable help at all?
As far as motors go, do you find fans are a noticable help at all?
#311
yea fans do help, i rarely run one but for 13.5 i think it is very neccessary, it would only help the motor in mod also, but wont drop lap times or anything.
#313
Paul,
Thanks for attending the Xray Challenge race in Portland last year. It was a pleasure to meet you at that event.
Since you don't have an "Ask Paul Lemieux" thread on the Nitro On-Road forum, I thought I'd ask this question here.
I was looking at your setup sheets for the '09 Capitol Classic and the '09 Gas Nationals (congrats on winning both) and have a question about roll center settings on the NT1.
The information indicates that you set the roll center inserts to LOW in both front and rear. However, the rear camber link has a pretty large spacer at the rear block and a very low position on the tower. Both of these settings (according to the setup book) RAISE the roll center.
How fine are the adjustments made by the camber link angle and position? How much would you have to increase the angle of the camber link to equal moving up one notch with the inserts?
Thanks for any info you can offer.
Thanks for attending the Xray Challenge race in Portland last year. It was a pleasure to meet you at that event.
Since you don't have an "Ask Paul Lemieux" thread on the Nitro On-Road forum, I thought I'd ask this question here.
I was looking at your setup sheets for the '09 Capitol Classic and the '09 Gas Nationals (congrats on winning both) and have a question about roll center settings on the NT1.
The information indicates that you set the roll center inserts to LOW in both front and rear. However, the rear camber link has a pretty large spacer at the rear block and a very low position on the tower. Both of these settings (according to the setup book) RAISE the roll center.
How fine are the adjustments made by the camber link angle and position? How much would you have to increase the angle of the camber link to equal moving up one notch with the inserts?
Thanks for any info you can offer.
#314
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
No problem man, im glad you had fun. sometimes this stuff can get so complicated and frustrating that its hard to have fun. im lucky to have been doing this for a REALLLLLY long time to beable to help and make sure everyone is on the right track and atleast having fun.
cool, thanks again for letting me hang with you.
not reason, good Tip, Thanks
yup
I dont mind, LOL, trust me, Ill listen.
no problem, hopefully it helps more than 50% of the time. LOL
now your just buttering me up for something, lol. Thanks
Cool
Great, its always fun when your learning new things. see ya in TX in about 3 weeks.
Hi Mark
1 i have still been using the nemisis mod's and they work well. any mod on the market will be fast, some just might not blow up as easy and are able to handle 220degs if it somehow gets that hot. i dont think you could go wrong with any of them.
2) the plastic outdrives will work but they do stand a chance of breaking, and (especially in mod) will wear inside and eventually bind. the aluminum ones should last forever as long as you replace the blades every once in a while to make sure that the pin dosent hit the outdrive and mark it up.
3) the front tires wearing more is kinda nature of the beast, but things like thicker rear shock oil and softer front shock oil can help the cause along with maybe softer front spring or a stiffer rear spring if the car will still handle ok. the thing is to try and get the car to steer the same the whole run. if my car has good steering up front but pushes at the end i would first try thicker rear oil and or thinner front to try and close the gap of Tire temp from front to rear bc obviously the front tires are getting too hot and loosing grip as the run goes on. more rear toe could also do the same thing (get the rear tires hotter and maybe provide more steering at the end). But honestly, im prolly not the guy to ask consittering my not so success on asphalt. lets see a little copy and paist from the Jilles thread on this one, LOL.
4) i use the same battery pretty much all the time, i think that they are best for power on the 2nd or 3rd charge of the day, for 12th scale mod i may worry about some possible run time loss but for TC i wouldnt worry atall.
No problem!
cool, thanks again for letting me hang with you.
not reason, good Tip, Thanks
yup
I dont mind, LOL, trust me, Ill listen.
no problem, hopefully it helps more than 50% of the time. LOL
now your just buttering me up for something, lol. Thanks
Cool
Great, its always fun when your learning new things. see ya in TX in about 3 weeks.
Hi Mark
1 i have still been using the nemisis mod's and they work well. any mod on the market will be fast, some just might not blow up as easy and are able to handle 220degs if it somehow gets that hot. i dont think you could go wrong with any of them.
2) the plastic outdrives will work but they do stand a chance of breaking, and (especially in mod) will wear inside and eventually bind. the aluminum ones should last forever as long as you replace the blades every once in a while to make sure that the pin dosent hit the outdrive and mark it up.
3) the front tires wearing more is kinda nature of the beast, but things like thicker rear shock oil and softer front shock oil can help the cause along with maybe softer front spring or a stiffer rear spring if the car will still handle ok. the thing is to try and get the car to steer the same the whole run. if my car has good steering up front but pushes at the end i would first try thicker rear oil and or thinner front to try and close the gap of Tire temp from front to rear bc obviously the front tires are getting too hot and loosing grip as the run goes on. more rear toe could also do the same thing (get the rear tires hotter and maybe provide more steering at the end). But honestly, im prolly not the guy to ask consittering my not so success on asphalt. lets see a little copy and paist from the Jilles thread on this one, LOL.
4) i use the same battery pretty much all the time, i think that they are best for power on the 2nd or 3rd charge of the day, for 12th scale mod i may worry about some possible run time loss but for TC i wouldnt worry atall.
No problem!
Do you mean thicker than what you normally run in the rear or thicker than the front....... as you always seem to run a thicker oil in the front?
#315
Tech Fanatic
WOW on the third page I thought I'd just bump you back to the front page Paulie looking forward to the reedy man see you then