The reason a non-sensored motor feels like it does is because it is what you call a slotless motor design and not a slotted sensored design like Novak and the other car racing motor manufacturers make.

Since a slotless motor has very little iron in it, the magnets do not have anything to cog against. This feature is what gives the motor its free wheeling characteristic which most car drivers do not like.

There are two ways to make a slotted motor feel this (smoother) way and both ways decrease the power output of the motor and overheat it. One is to run very weak magnets and the other way is to have a very large air gap (small diameter magnets). We could do either but nobody but a very few would want to run them.

It is not a good idea to grind the rotor down because it is a very difficult and messy operation. If you do want to try it you must apply a coating of epoxy over the magnet, after you finish, to prevent the magnets from rusting.

The range of timing adjustment on the SS motors is limited and somewhat inconsistent. We set the timing to approx 30 degrees as we currently do on the Ballistic. Your "average" range of adjustment on the SS series of motors was from about 15 to 45 degrees... This is the reason why we made the timing label on the ballistic reflect these particular values.

Some SS motors will not allow for this amount of adjustment however: the tolerances among the stator, rotor, and sensor could build up in either direction to allow for more than a total of 45 degrees possible or less than 45 degrees possible.

Performance differences between the SS and Ballistic teardowns is generally attributed to differences in rotor strength, but there is one design attribute that differs between the SS and ballistic that may also contribute to the difference in performance: The air gap between the sensor assembly and the rotor itself. This gap is relatively small on most of the SS series of motors and was increased on the ballistic motors.

When tested on the dyno this difference in air gaps to the rotor resulted in changes that were similar to running different timing values. A bigger gap acts like more timing whereas a smaller gap acts like less timing.

In order to ensure that the replaceable sensor harness doesn’t easily fall out of the ballistic motor accidentally, the end bell was designed to snuggly retain the end of the sensor harness in its connector.

As such, removal of the harness requires special attention so as to not damage the harness itself.

1. It is advised to note the timing setting on the motor.
2. Using a 1.5 mm wrench, loosen the three flat head screws holding the end cap and sensor assembly in place.
3. Once loosened, grasp the sensor harness as close to the connector as possible.
4. Gently “walk” the sensor harness connector out of the motor’s connector by wiggling the connector side to side.
a. NOTE: You may need to pull up slightly on the harness as there is a small lip on the endbell that may impede the removal of the sensor harness connector in certain circumstances.
5. Once the harness is removed, it can easily be replaced at this point.
6. Next, retighten the three 1.5 mm screws in the end cap, ensuring that the timing setting is set to where it was noted before the sensor harness removal process was begun.