JDXray

iTrader: (3)

Okay i will put a pic of front and back up right now give me a sec. (If you want to talk to me on AIM my sn is ApexHigh07)

Jon

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

Here is the front end. (sorry alittle blurry i zoomed in too far. )

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

Rear with foams.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Just use the inner rear arm mounting pos. ,car works just as good mounted there. I have mine inside and my car is dialed

dado11g

iTrader: (1)

hey guys. do any of you guys run the aluminum front c-hubs? do you guys find the plastic/composite c-hubs to be weak? i ran my evo2 for the first time the other day and any slight touch of the wall would put a nice crack in them near the bottom steering block screw, and eventually just break off. any other car i had survived a hit like this(tc3, tamiya, yokomo). i am not a begginer and i was just wondering if that was a known weak spot. and if i get aluminums, what camber angle should i go for?

thanks guys
marshalv.

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

I have broke a few c-hubs but i have taken some hard hits and they didnt break.

Try some 3* c-hubs, and 6* for more aggressivness in corners, but it will be hard in the chicane (if any, and you will get too much steering)

Alum C-hubs- You can try the xray ones, but i heard the TeamTamale ones were good too.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

if you are breaking the plastic c-hubs, you will bend the alum one. so the $3 you pay for a c-hub is alot better then the $60 you pay for the alum set. The team tamale one are the way to go. They are milled from a higher grade of aluminum and are way stiffer. Non of the 15-20 xray guys that use the hub have broken or even bent one. I have had my set for 6 month. The only thing that may wear out is hte plastic bushing that the screw goes though. And they sell those as well alot cheaper then the xray ones. The guy is a machinist for a gov contractor here in Dallas, so he know what he is doing with aluminum.

you may check his site out he sells a handful of xray parts. just look at my sig for the url

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

The composit C-hubs are brittle, mostly because of the huge pivot hole in the bottom. I've switched to Xray Alum and they've worked great. I have felt one bend a little and bind the movement a bit, but it still works fine. I would really look at the team tamale one though, it looks nice! I've had good results with 3º not the 6º for carpet.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I saw all the bits on Toasties car at the Champs and I am going to try the caster blocks, fan mount, roll center mounts and front shock perches. I already ordered them. There are pictures of some of the parts under new items i believe.

Ray

Rob Mincey

Chach - I'm echo'ing John Tag's answer. I run my shocks on the inner hole on the rear arm and the car is hooked up.

Rob

NismoSkyline17

Same here. I know there is a mod to fix it but it reqires alot of milling. Definately not worth doing.

raving-monkey

yeah i run mine on the inner hole to...and my car seems alright.

i found if i filed the shock bottom down it made it really weak and the slightest knock cracked it and popped the shock off.

i think you can milled the "block" that sticks out down to the wishbone and it then clears it but i dont wanna risk making my wishbone weak or something.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I have my rear arms shaved down quite a bit and there is no sign of fatigue on the arm. Same set of rear arms on my car since Snowbirds. Shaving the arm has no affect on durability. They are obviously overengineered for strength.

Ray

raving-monkey

ok, might give it a go....how much do you take off? i heard you take it all off but i;m not sure.

what is the main advantage of running the shock in the outer hole though?

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

I run the outer hole on the rear arms... What i did was... While the foams tire is on the lathe with a file just remove some of the innder plastic. MINT