Tom G

It seems like everytime I use a substitute, non-Hudy ball joint cup or -rod end, it's too tight.

Is this characteristic? Is the ball or rod-end that is different?

Tom G

"Anyone...anyone...anyone"....Ferris Bueller's Day off

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Thats a hard one to describe-it really is. Tight to me would be one where the belt skips instead of being able to actually make the diff slip.

Medium is where you can get some slip of the diff, but it takes a bit of effort to roatate wheels.

And last loose is when its as loose as it can be and not audibly or noticeably slip on the track.
I would describe my diffs as tight in front (belt skips when ou try to check it.) and my rear is Medium to loose. It doesnt slip at all on the track-but wheels arent too hard to turn (you know-hold one wheel and then hold the spur and try and spin opposing wheel).

Thats my take on it. And its in no way scientific.

Ozwald Bates

Belt tension question:

I'm currently running the front belt one notch looser than stock and I have every other tooth removed on the front pulley (one-way). Using a 19 turn should I worry about any belt slippage with this setup?

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

U may have tighten it one notch, that would be about it. It should not be too big of a difference.

Tom G

rayhuang

Thanks. Believe it or not, it helps give me something to judge on.

^5

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Glad to hear I could clear things up a bit.


I would say if you race on Carpet w/foam tires-I would tighten front diff pretty tight, but not locked. Then vary the tightness of the rear diff for handling. Believe it or not-the rear diff on the Xray really changes how smooth the car handles (on carpet at least). Get it just too tight and car feels really edgy and inconsistent in the middle of the corner.

Neil Rabara

The front should not slip because of the oneway. I ran the loosest possible settings on my car for both front and rear belts, and had no slippage under braking. The only slip I had is at the sound of the tone (beginning of the race) when all power is given to the motor to start.

etzkev

When carpet season starts up again, I think I'm gonna pick up a spool for my front. I'll see how that is. I usually run my front diffs REALLY tight for carpet, but have yet to try a spool. We'll see how it goes.

-Kevin

J FAST

hello i was wondering what diff to order for the front the fk diff or the spring steel diff i run stock class thanks

Neil Rabara

All you need is the FK diffs. The spring steel diff halves are too heavy and they do the same job.

J FAST

thank you neil for your help

new92

I have a question about the ball cups on the ends of the rear turnbuckles. I broke one in half the other night and when I ordered the new ones I forgot about the metal things that go in them to let it rotate around the screw. I looked back and didnt see any on the site I ordered from and am about to try to get my old one out of the cup and re use it. Otherwise anyone know if another brand works? My LHS doesnt stock very many XRay parts yet and even if I wanted them to order it it would take about 2 to 3 weeks to get them in. Then again it really kinda stinks to order a bag of parts that will probably be 3 or 4 dollars and pay 5 dollars shipping on them lol.


Just curious as to if any other companies make them? If not I will just order ones from XRay.

Neil Rabara

Your best bet is to use the old balls and put them in the new cups. There are no other companies that make replacements for that particular part.

P2

iTrader: (15)

What does adding spacers underneath the camber links on the hub carriers do? I think it will reduce traction, can anyone confirm this.

How about putting the front camberlink on the bulkhead. How does this affect steering/front grip and how many spacers is the norm

Thanks,
P2