Xray T1
#4786
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by proudwinner
Anyone know of a company that makes a titanium screw kit for the evo2 and if so where are some places to get them?
Anyone know of a company that makes a titanium screw kit for the evo2 and if so where are some places to get them?
I was able to get a pack of ten Ti screws for as little as $3.20 from RainbowTen in Japan.
#4787
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by RBLove
Pulley's:
What I found.
Low ratio pulley's made the drive train free spin much longer. As for acceleration I felt the 2.125 pulley's have a more punchy feel. My suggestion is small tighter tracks run the 2.125 pulley's and for a larger more open track run the 1.77 pulley's. Top end seems to be a little better with the 1.177, but corner to corner I like the 2.125.
Pulley's:
What I found.
Low ratio pulley's made the drive train free spin much longer. As for acceleration I felt the 2.125 pulley's have a more punchy feel. My suggestion is small tighter tracks run the 2.125 pulley's and for a larger more open track run the 1.77 pulley's. Top end seems to be a little better with the 1.177, but corner to corner I like the 2.125.
#4788
Tech Master
I haven't driven mine yet with the new pulleys but that's what everyone else in our club says about the 1.77 seems to have more punch. I guess cuz of the less rotating mass.
#4790
Originally posted by NismoSkyline17
I haven't driven mine yet with the new pulleys but that's what everyone else in our club says about the 1.77 seems to have more punch. I guess cuz of the less rotating mass.
I haven't driven mine yet with the new pulleys but that's what everyone else in our club says about the 1.77 seems to have more punch. I guess cuz of the less rotating mass.
#4791
Tech Fanatic
Ok, I've gotten the car fully assembled, and the only problems I had during assembly were screwing the eyelets onto the bottom of the shock shafts. That was one hell of a bare, well actually 4 hell of a bears . But In the end I figured it out and got the last one on rather easily. The other problem I had was I kept putting the wrong screw in some places (so many of those screws look exactly the same but are actually a little different in legnth) , and so I would have to take it out and replace it with the right one, not a real problem, but certainly annoying after the 3rd time .
The front belt is still pretty tight, any ideas on how to loosen it up? I did find that you could loosen the screws for the top plate, tug up on the belt a little and than tighten the screws back down and that would loosen it up some, but I tought that would also tweak the chassis in a bad way? I really like the shock bladders, it was a major pain building shocks for my tc3 without bladders. They make it really easy to get equal rebound action.
The front belt is still pretty tight, any ideas on how to loosen it up? I did find that you could loosen the screws for the top plate, tug up on the belt a little and than tighten the screws back down and that would loosen it up some, but I tought that would also tweak the chassis in a bad way? I really like the shock bladders, it was a major pain building shocks for my tc3 without bladders. They make it really easy to get equal rebound action.
#4792
Originally posted by racerdx6
The front belt is still pretty tight, any ideas on how to loosen it up?
The front belt is still pretty tight, any ideas on how to loosen it up?
#4793
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (3)
racerdx6
If you have an Evo 2 look in your Instruction Manual on page 10 and make sure your adjustable bulkheads are in the correct spot. If not, the plastic ring that goes into the bulkheads that has a notch on it is how you adjust the tension on the belt. There are 5 positions on the bottom of the bulkhead, Xray recommends in the manual to start in position 3 (COUNTING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR TO THE REAR). If you need to losen the belt move the notch towards the front of the car, position 2. I bet you do not have that set correctly.
Hope this helps
If you have an Evo 2 look in your Instruction Manual on page 10 and make sure your adjustable bulkheads are in the correct spot. If not, the plastic ring that goes into the bulkheads that has a notch on it is how you adjust the tension on the belt. There are 5 positions on the bottom of the bulkhead, Xray recommends in the manual to start in position 3 (COUNTING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR TO THE REAR). If you need to losen the belt move the notch towards the front of the car, position 2. I bet you do not have that set correctly.
Hope this helps
#4794
Tech Fanatic
Actually porschesupercup when I was assembling the car I saw that. So I already have the little notch in the #2 position, mabey I should go to one? Or mabey I should just run the car, yah I think thats it !!
#4795
Tech Regular
Originally posted by jbackslash
Could you get a better shot of how you have the plugs soldered on? Also where did you get them from?
Could you get a better shot of how you have the plugs soldered on? Also where did you get them from?
Also, if you can notice from the photo ... the female mini plug have hole on the side so that you can solder your wires perpendicular to the plug.
#4796
Tech Master
Originally posted by racerdx6
Actually porschesupercup when I was assembling the car I saw that. So I already have the little notch in the #2 position, mabey I should go to one? Or mabey I should just run the car, yah I think thats it !!
Actually porschesupercup when I was assembling the car I saw that. So I already have the little notch in the #2 position, mabey I should go to one? Or mabey I should just run the car, yah I think thats it !!
#4797
Originally posted by PorscheSuperCup
racerdx6
If you have an Evo 2 look in your Instruction Manual on page 10 and make sure your adjustable bulkheads are in the correct spot. If not, the plastic ring that goes into the bulkheads that has a notch on it is how you adjust the tension on the belt. There are 5 positions on the bottom of the bulkhead, Xray recommends in the manual to start in position 3 (COUNTING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR TO THE REAR). If you need to losen the belt move the notch towards the front of the car, position 2. I bet you do not have that set correctly.
Hope this helps
racerdx6
If you have an Evo 2 look in your Instruction Manual on page 10 and make sure your adjustable bulkheads are in the correct spot. If not, the plastic ring that goes into the bulkheads that has a notch on it is how you adjust the tension on the belt. There are 5 positions on the bottom of the bulkhead, Xray recommends in the manual to start in position 3 (COUNTING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR TO THE REAR). If you need to losen the belt move the notch towards the front of the car, position 2. I bet you do not have that set correctly.
Hope this helps
I have tha raycer porshe.And I noticed that the front belt is much more tighter than any of my other rays.It's a little strange but I think that I will just run it box stock and see how it fares against your fast car.
#4798
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Originally posted by NismoSkyline17
I haven't driven mine yet with the new pulleys but that's what everyone else in our club says about the 1.77 seems to have more punch. I guess cuz of the less rotating mass.
I haven't driven mine yet with the new pulleys but that's what everyone else in our club says about the 1.77 seems to have more punch. I guess cuz of the less rotating mass.
My personal opinion is that the low ratio pullies make no difference at all assuming you go back to the same FDR or rollout. Maybe Ralph can see a difference in lap times, but nobody including myself at our club races are capable of driving the car well enough to see a difference in lap times. Cypress and Rob- I'm curious if you have actually made back to back runs with teh same motors and batteries only changing the pullies to see if there is a change in lap times? I'm betting there isn't, but I have been wrong before...
I'm sorry if I seem like a pessimist, but I come from drag racing and we made one change at a time. If it didn't help, we went right back to what we were using before. When I was running my Missions I never saw one little tiny bit of help from chaging pulleys, putting pretty purple aluminum parts on the car, or upgrading to the new style diffs. Why? Cause the car wasn't any faster with that stuff, with me driving it. It was just eye candy or durablility. I just paid $7.50 for aluminum servo mounts on my T1R. Will it be faster? No- I'm just a sucker. (my alum. servo mounts are irrelevant to LR pulleys- just thought I would share )
#4799
You know Dawg I had some aluminum servo mounts that I had left over from one of my other rays and dem hoes don't fit on tha t1r from what i see.
#4800
Tech Regular
Originally posted by stik
Jbackslash: Here's the pic you requested. I've included in the pics a normal female Corally plug (so you can see the difference in size) and a male mini-euro plug. You may want to use the mini if you intend to use a fan alongside the motor endbell. It will let you mount a fan closer to the endbell. Otherwise, the normal corally plug will do.
Also, if you can notice from the photo ... the female mini plug have hole on the side so that you can solder your wires perpendicular to the plug.
Jbackslash: Here's the pic you requested. I've included in the pics a normal female Corally plug (so you can see the difference in size) and a male mini-euro plug. You may want to use the mini if you intend to use a fan alongside the motor endbell. It will let you mount a fan closer to the endbell. Otherwise, the normal corally plug will do.
Also, if you can notice from the photo ... the female mini plug have hole on the side so that you can solder your wires perpendicular to the plug.