jonathan123

https://www.mytsn.com/vip/vip.asp?cid=609

new pullies' part number #305550
Do you think there will be any difference between the old ones and these as I have the old ones.
There looks to be a lot more parts in the new ones, like Labyrinth dust covers.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hey Team Drivers,

When I get those pulleys-and the new rear belt-do I set the rear eccentric one hole tighter to keep the same tension I have now? I am running my rear belt in the second loosest position on my T1R /evo2 car right now and its seems to be good.

Oh-let me add that I run stock only and on carpet with Foam tires. ALso my front bearings are in the middle position and I also use a belt tensioner thats set to barely touch the belt right now.

Thanks,
Ray

BHenderson

iTrader: (3)

so with these new pulleys you have to get a new rear belt? just the rear or the front as well? on MyTSN it makes no mention of having to puchase new belts but i could see where that would be necessary. If we have to get new belts with this, anyone know the part number(s)?

Thanks

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

PorscheSuperCup-NO you dont need to buy a new belt to use the new pulleys!!! The new belt is supposed to be faster and more efficicnt than the older belt. Its narrower, softer, but very strong (i.e. wont stretch much).

Ray

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I have 2 set coming to me any day now... Sorry can't say where I got them yet..If I do I will have to shoot you... Getting the new belts and hard rear arms as well...

They are made of the same material as the original pulleys and not the white delrin as seen in the prototype. So that means that these pulleys may wear out fast if you're running hot mods.

Neil Rabara

You will need to tighten the eccentric hubs. I had to tighten the rear four positions, and the front two positions and still have plenty of play without the belt skipping.

The new rear belt are a blessing. It's frees up the rear so much that you would think it's almost a shaft car. If you run modified, listen closely to your car when you brake, adjust tension if it skips.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Neil-Thanks!!! I cannot wait to run it again. Seeing the Tc3's accelerating like batts outa hell is soon to be a thing of the past!!!


Watch out-here comes the Xray-baby!!

Jimmy Fukuyama

LOL.. Bye Bye TC3! what I've always wanted to say.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Good thing I got rid of mine 2 months ago...

Jimmy
Can you give me a set up for outdoor asphalt parking lot? Track changes every month...technical one day..and fast and furioius the next. last week it was mixed...car was loose all day. mainly ran the stock set-up from the book...

Jimmy Fukuyama

Hi rcZ, just got back yesterday from overseas.

Here's goes my humble suggestion:

Slightly Dusty & bumpy Parking Lots/Technical
Gearing based on Monster Pro Stock: 7.3~7.5
Front:
-1 degrees camber
std linkage
0 to .5 degree toe-out
3 degrees anti-dive
3 degrees caster
downstop 2mm w/hudy blocks
1 hole close shock w/35 wt.
blue springs or white depending on oversteer or understeering
for understeering go with the white.
Tire: Sorex 36R or CS 27 in the afternoon, Sorex 32R in the morning. Medium to medium soft inserts.

Rear:
-2 degree camber
upper hole roll center bridge
2~2.5 toe-in
medium to light loose rear diff
0 degree anti-squat
downstop 4mm w/hudy blocks
all open shock w/30 wt.
yellow or white springs depending on your gearing, check for traction during stand-still acceleration. *more torque= white springs, less torque=yellow springs.
Tire: Sorex 32R with medium soft inserts w/ white springs or Sorex 36R wtih medium inserts yellow springs.


For Fast smooth tracks.
Gearing based on Monster Pro Stock 7.1~7.3
Front:
0 degrees toe-in/out
-1 degrees camber
3 degrees anti-dive
3 degrees caster
3mm downstop w/hudy
2 holes shocks w/ blue or violet @ 35wt
std linkage
anti-roll bars: 90 degrees flat
Sorex 36R w/medium or CS27 w/medium
souce 1/3 to 1/2 of outter tire
*You should have maximum steering and speed. if not, go to 0 degrees anti-dive and 6 degrees caster blocks. or 0 degree anti-dive and 3 degree caster block. You have to play around depending on your acceleration ouf of a corner.*

Rear:
-2 degrees camber
-1.5 to -2 degrees toe-in
medium to snug rear diff
3 degrees anti-squat
3mm downstop
1 hole close shocks w/30wt
white springs
1.5mm rear sway-bar
Sorex 36R w/medium to medium soft inserts

*special note* if running Mod, it will depend on the turns for the right gearing and increase rear traction by adding .5 cambers and toe-in in increments.

Good luck!

Jimmy

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Jimmy...

Hope you had fun in Japan...

Jimmy Fukuyama

I did but didn't spent much time there. I got shipped around by the company. The SD is becoming real sweet now. I brought back the same "Gold" chassis Masami had but it'll be a display car. btw, Dan was saying the GS bladder are better then the Rayspeeds. I guess they're made in China because I couldn't find any. You racing the Speedworld this weekend? I might drop by if Dan will fly me there.

Jimmy

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I want a gold chassis too. Masami's car looks sweet..check out his race video on the yokomo website.

I'll see if I can get more GS bladders for you guys...Rayspeed's made in Japan...an affilate of YOkomo. Comes in 3 compounds soft. med, and hard. Pit just came out with some bladders...I'm going to try to get some.
I wish I was racing at Speedworld...old ball and chain won't let me race a 2 day event.
I'll probably watch the mains on Sunday.


If you have a good set-up for the SD..let me know... had some set-up problems with that car too last weekend...

RandyB

iTrader: (2)

all right fella's enough yokomo talk in the t1 forum
haha lol

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Do the c hubs increase steering or decrease?