or8ital

iTrader: (38)

If someone were to purchase a T3 what kind of upgrades, spares, tuning parts should they consider?

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

Maybe some 600/1000 cst oil. Set of 2.8 and 2.4 springs... that's about it. Everything you need to race is pretty much in the box. The box setup will work for you pretty much everywhere with minor changes.

Even though the initial purchase for the kit seems expensive, you realize after time you only need whats in the box and nothing else.


Spares would be the normal suspension pieces. Front arms/knuckles/hubs, Rear arms/hubs. They don't break often, but do break. And I would suggest the screws 3x16mm that hold the front suspension on. They bend if you hit to much stuff.

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

Hard Foam Bumper

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

What about the lower bumper? Any good?

ECS Shaft or Aluminum shock bodies worth the price?

Anyone know what kinda weights to expect to be at running the T3 with a 5000mah lipo and lightweight electronics (Tekin RS, futaba s9550 servo, stealth transponder, ko micro receiver).

ToysRUsKid

iTrader: (16)

Lower bumper fine, get hard foam bumper. Really protects the steering parts in hard crashes. I use it in nitro also.

ECS shafts and aluminum shocks are optionals, not necessary. Plus it depends on who you ask. I have ECS but don't care for aluminum shocks.

I can't help you with the weight, you'll have to figure that out when you put your stuff in the car.

Catalyst

iTrader: (5)

I've never needed 1000cst shock oil...that's stiff! +1 on the springs as I like the 2.8/2.4 combo for low to mid traction asphalt racing.

For spares I'd recommend some of the new V2 knuckles. I've never broken a knuckle in my 009 but they do strip after going in and out with the upper camber link a few times (if your using spacers as part of your setup change for different tracks). I always carrry a spare front and rear belt too as they are low friction but do wear somewhat fast.

If you're like me you will want to go 64p on the spur if you want finer gearing change adjustments.

Other than that it's typical maintenance stuff like o rings and diff parts. I rebuild my diffs between race days and the axial thrust bearing requires changing along with the diff rings after a few sand/polish/flips have been done. It's actually cheaper just to get replacement diffs than parts when you look at the prices (that axial bearing kit is $$$).

trollsrevenge

What about this Aluminum hopups? does they make any difference? are they stronger than plastic ones?

302256 ALU STEERING BLOCK WITH BEARINGS
302337 ALU C-HUB FRONT BLOCK, RIGHT/LEFT - 4° DEG.
303358 ALU UPRIGHT 1° OUTBOARD TOE-IN (L+R)

Some antiroll bars?
What are the basic pinions/spurs? will be racing a 10.5 Brushless

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

Stonger yes, but they change the setup feel of the car. When I run aluminum with my rubber setups it always seems more pushy then when I run with the plastics. I would say not worth the money unless you're running foam.

Catalyst

iTrader: (5)

+1

I ran the aluminum knuckles since I stripped several composite ones (never broke) and they are super high quality. I did develop more push on corner entry which I solved with a slightly different setup. I reverted back to composite as I wanted to run the original size (larger) bearings in them when I went to Ceramics.

CarbonJoe

If you don't use the composite (plastic) inserts, you can use 5x11 bearings, which are even bigger than the stock 5x10 bearings (or the silly 5x9 ones that you have to use with the composite inserts).

Catalyst

iTrader: (5)

I considered that but liked the insert within the aluminum block so that rather than causing damage to the outer ring of the bearings or the inside of the block I could just replace the insert as the metal on metal can cause some serious wear.

If you did this did you get good life out of the parts? Real world usage versus my theory would be great to know!

CarbonJoe

Same knuckles used on my '007, '008, and '009 with no significant wear (this was on carpet).

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

i'd recommend you pick up the following:

302291 - T2 Steel Steering Bushing (2+2)
303132 - Steel Shim For Lower Susp. Holder 3X7.5X0.75 (10)

the bushings are for the front steering blocks if/when you break them. the 0.75 thick shims are VERY popular in a lot of the current front-end setups to make the stance wider.

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Tim,

I find that the wide lower bumper will caused some handling issues due to the chassis role. I have found the firm bumper works well enough.

The ecs makes spool setups a little smoother. The stock axles are the lightened ones which virtually eliminate the chatter. The ESC is expensive at $100 for the pair. I would not say if they are a must.

The alloy shocks are another nice to have. The plastic shocks are really good. Many people do not like them because they can not bleed them to well. Usually because they try yo bleed them like HPI or Tamiya shocks. You bleed Xray shocks at the bottom cap. I have yet to break a plastic shock in about 2 years of running the car.

The T3 is about 1325 with a KO micro receiver, KO standard size servo, and a KO BMC. This includes a 5200 SMC lipo with about a 60g lipo plate under the battery. Basically a PPD plate with 2 cell points cut off. This was also with a Protoform Speed 6 lightweight body. So not to much weight will need to be added if you are going with the new ROAR weight.

You will like the car Tim. It even looks so cool in the Orange like the 009 did.

Skiddins

Sorry, it wasn't mean't to be sarcastic towards you, I was just re-affirming your statement at people too foolish to think ahead!

Skiddins