1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

Can you tell me how to set up that axle? I have one but I can’t figure out how the right side hub is supposed to stay on. Is there a different hub that needs to be bought?

foampervert

iTrader: (5)

Hiya folks,
I love my 235 pan cars:
Yokomo yr10
Ae rc10L
Roche 10w (1st gen)
Corally something (not sure what)
I've been driving the rc10L and roche and am wondering if the old vintage style bodyshells work as well as the new fangled modern shells? I've added taller side dams to my old Peugeot shell and others and it seems ok, but there is no competition here in Singapore, so no real data on bodyshells...

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

I don’t know which one works better but I like my Bolink better than the new fangled ones. Looks are important to me.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

What do you want to know??
Is your axly incomplete or something?
Do you have a picture of yours??

Regards Roy

Greg Holford

iTrader: (1)

We had a racer last week with the CRC car (Queen City) and it had the hub extensions instead of a true 235 rear pod and axel. Take a look at Sidepieceracing.com, they sell the Fenix cars and have a couple of options for the Pro10 with a gear diff for outside. Their older kit is only $250 and the newer one is $405.

I'm Currently running a 22 X10 stock at 200mm, but I think the Fenix is going to be my next purchase. The wider cars look a lot easier to drive on our large track and can carry the corner speed were we are kinda over driving in the corners to keep up.

vados

GT-500W-235mm Option set TS-02073

Hi, does this axis work well?
Problems with vibration?, quality?
Anybody use this with a mod motor?
Thank you.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

yes it is incomplete. Apparently it needs a clamp on hub & perhaps a spacer. The descriptions at Mudslide are very vague and they have not returned my last message.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

This is the one for the 235mm pan cars-----> https://muddslidemotorsports.com/1grproaxkitf2.html
Long left wheel hub and a small spacer

Regards Roy

LonnyJ1950

Here's how it goes: install diff ring on axle, be sure it sits flush with disc on axle. Insert diff balls in gear. I usually lube the balls first, but that is a personal preference. Place a ball bearing in the gear's center hole, I use an unflanged bearing here, but again personal preference. Lube the diff ring with your diff lube, lots of choices here, I use a high pressure grease that I can't find anymore, not sure what I'll change to when I run out. Slide the gear on the axle. Be careful not to get grease on the threaded part of the axle. Install a flanged bearing in your diff hub. Now install the remaining diff ring on your hub, a dab of grease on the back side will help stick it to the hub and make it easier to assemble. Again be sure the ring sits flush against the face of the hub. Lube this ring. Slide the hub on the axle. Install a flanged bearing in the outer hub opening. Now, if you press the hub lightly into the gear while holding the axle, it should turn smoothly with just a slight resistance from the diff lube. The next step can vary. Most people use the diff cone, the tapered spacer, next. Place it on the axle with the small end against the hub bearing. Place one or two bellevue, or cupped, washers in the large end of the diff cone, cupped side in. Thread the nut onto the axle and tighten until all the play is removed. Rotate again to be sure it is still smooth. If not try replacing the bearing in the outside of the hub. Put the axle in the car. Place the left hub, usually a clamping hub to keep from damaging the axle, on the end of the axle. Install tires on both sides. Measure from the chassis centerline to the outside of the right or diffside tire. Now measure the same distance on the left side. They should be equal. If not add spacers to the shorter side to make them equal. Now measure from the outside of one tire to the outside of the other. This is normally 235mm. Add spacers equally to both sides until it is. Narrowing the rear track from 235mm is a fine tuning tool for handling, but most people go as wide as possible. Now hold a tire in each hand and try to turn the gear. Gradually tighten the diff nut until you can no longer turn the gear with your thumb. You're ready to test it on the track. Slightly tightening or loosening the diff is also a tuning tool, but these adjustments should be small. If you skip down to page 18 of this PDF there are pictures of this assembly starting with step 55.

http://oldrc.com/TrinityFiles/Evolution10FManual.pdf

MonkeyCmonkeyDo

iTrader: (4)

To answer some questions here on the previous cpl pages, on my pro10 I run bsr blue fronts and double x rear pinks I'm thinking. I'd have to double check that. Gearing for 2s 17.5 punisher motor I'm running Robinson 100t and a 24-26t pinion. You do the math for gearing. Lol
d

LonnyJ1950

Would need to know your tire diameter. It's rollout that counts, not just ratio.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

that one appears to have diff balls?

MonkeyCmonkeyDo

iTrader: (4)

U want rear tire diameter? I'll measure tonight with calipers.
d

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

That looks like a 1:12 axle, as Pro10 cars have 4 holes for the wheels and your missing some vital parts like the inside dif hub

regards Roy