littlealex

iTrader: (86)

[QUOTE=Monkeys punk;9733869]Really depends on track size for rollout but for a medium sized track I was rolling out about 88mm when running boosted 17.5. It was one of the fastest cars on the track but motor soon gets hot so need to watch your temps. I would get the smallest spur you can find and that will make pinion choice easier. I found a 48dp 58T spur and was running 46mm foams with a 35 pinion.


thanks for the info. i run in small track, 40'x30' is that mean higher rollout is possible in smaller tracks?
where can you find 58t spur and what is 48dp?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

48 pitch, larger teeth on the spur, less adjustability for rollout. Great for outdoors where stripping spurs might be a problem.

64 pitch, smaller teeth on the spur, more adjustability for rollout. Indoor/Outdoor, but better chance of stripping teeth outdoors.

The shorter the track the lower the rollout, but not drastically lower. If you're at 3.0" now, go down to 2.75" and then temp after 5 minutes. After that its all about how the car feels to you.

Monkeys punk

I was running 48dp as its the only pitch I could find a spur that small. I now run 64 but have stripped a few spurs since switching. I am in the uk so use Action Model Centre. They are great for 12th bits and I would imagine they can ship overseas if your having trouble finding anything locally.
http://www.actionmodelcentre.com/

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

thanks again monkey punk. we usually run 12 scale on carpet in canada and usually use 64p gears. i think i can give crc 72t 16 diff ball spurs a try. there is no problem looking for crc parts in usa online sites.
i've been told adding a washer or spring washer between motor screw and motor pod can reduce chance stripping gears

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

Try the Lunsford fatboy titanium motor screws, the 10mm version. Lets you crank down on the screws nice and tight, motor won't move even under the hardest hits!.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

When I torque down my motor screws, I put a nice thick super soft bronze or aluminum washer between the screw and the motor plate, torque it (I use long steel screws with the big metric hex that fully engage in the threads in the motor can) until I just see it start to give, never gets knocked out of mesh, haven't stripped the motor can yet... granted, I don't take my motor out that much.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys

Has anyone tried the Speedmerchant GenXL kit ?? there was 2 assosiated cars at the track on sunday running the inline battery conversion and WOW they change direction quick

Thanks Phil

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I was going to wait until after the IIC, if half or so of the A-main cars were inline then I will think hard about it. Until then... battery forward FTW.

P.S. The kit is an even $100 and requires a second motor plate for the left side of the car.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

IMO, the inline cars are drawn up in response to cars that had a "less than favorable" front-to-rear weight bias. The Gen. XL has proven to be more than competitive against the current crop of "in-line" cars because it already had a very favorable front/rear weight ratio. A few other "lateral" cars also exhibit this trait, and do very well.

I only run 17.5 boosted, and 13.5 boosted, so Mod may exhibit different tendencies that I haven't experienced.

Craig

Does anyone have any photos of the best way to mount a speedo? I have a LRP SXX Stock Spec and really cant decide what way would work the best?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Straight on the chassis next to the shock mount, about 3mm of clearance between the terminals and battery, with the power capacitor looped to the other side of the shock mount and held firm between the shock mount and your receiver.

waswadener

iTrader: (72)

I'm new to the Gen XL family and am getting my car ready for my first 1/12th scale race in a week or so.

I'm placing the electronics that can be moved around (Smartboost, Tekin RS, SR3500 and MRT PTX). No matter where I put the electronics, the best left-right weight balance I can get is a 25 g difference between the left and right wheels (left side being heavier).

Is the 25 g difference in lateral weight distribution big enough that it's anything to worry about? If so, I'm not sure how to achieve perfect lateral balance because the heaviest components (motor and battery) can't be moved laterally.

After fiddling with electronics placement for about two hours now, I'm beginning to think my 25 g difference in lateral balance is as close as I'm going to get. I'm tempted to servo-tape the stuff in the location that gives me the best (although not perfect) lateral balance, go drive the race and see how the car handles.

Thoughts?

TrevCoult

Is that the whole car or minus the pod. It's the main chassis plate that needs to be balanced so try it after removing the pod. I can get a Tekin RS, PTX, JR Z3650, RCDynamics booster and Sanwa 451R balanced perfectly. Also remember to do it with a cell in too as their weight is not even from side to side.

Trev

Monkeys punk

Can anyone let me know the changes in handling I will get without the long arm or top brace installed (basically kit). I am looking for a little more steering on a lowish grip carpet.

Monkeys punk

Just also found this, maybe a new chassis soon ?http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...bum=67&pos=297