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3racing F109

Old 03-05-2015, 12:54 PM
  #1966  
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Originally Posted by coderzone77 View Post
GRP F1 ? well, I will have to try them too then.
I wanted to buy Ride-F1, but the rear ones were not available in my lhs
Anyway, I need to change my motor, currently running a LRP13.5 stock and it's way too powerful to handle.
Want to get my 17.5 (trackstar) back. then have to try a proper pinion-
Just as a refference of starting point:
Last time I used 75/20 (48DP) with 17,5T and blinky ESC. Motor was cool after run. Class is restricted only by using rubber tires, so motor is open, ESC timing too. I was fast enough to post fastest lap times in few heats.
track layout http://www.rcblansko.eu/01image/jedovnice/draha_5.jpg
size of the carpet 20 x 35 m
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Old 03-09-2015, 03:31 AM
  #1967  
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Thanks as always, Acid_Cz
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:17 PM
  #1968  
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If anybody's interested, I'm selling my F109. Make me an offer after checking out the link.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...us-extras.html
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:56 PM
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Looking for some setup advice using f103 size rubber tires on black carpet. I am rebuilding the entire chassis. What oil/spring combo for the main shock and roll damper? I have no idea what pistons are in them right now as it was already built when I got it. I have the 3racing front spring kit and the Tamiya touring car spring kit for the shock. Iíll be converting the side spring over to the AE springs and holders (CRC stuff out of stock locally). It also has the caster adjuster and out tuned diff.

I will eventually switch over to the F104 front and wheels/tires, but I just want to get it on the track and start practicing with the stuff I have.
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Old 03-09-2019, 01:46 PM
  #1970  
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
Looking for some setup advice using f103 size rubber tires on black carpet. I am rebuilding the entire chassis. What oil/spring combo for the main shock and roll damper? I have no idea what pistons are in them right now as it was already built when I got it. I have the 3racing front spring kit and the Tamiya touring car spring kit for the shock. Iíll be converting the side spring over to the AE springs and holders (CRC stuff out of stock locally). It also has the caster adjuster and out tuned diff.

I will eventually switch over to the F104 front and wheels/tires, but I just want to get it on the track and start practicing with the stuff I have.
Its been a while since I serious ran my F109 (and I've never run on black carpet) but I can give you some insight into my asphalt setup and might help you.

The front spring set will not be hard enough (the hardest spring - gold I think, might just be OK). I was using Associated 1/12 springs but I think Xenon has similar springs (most current 1/12/F1 springs are, effectively, interchangeable).

Roll damper - It's so small that I found you needed to run really heavy oil to make it work well. I was running 800-1000.
Center Shock - I was running the softest Tamiya TC spring (fluro red). Exotek now have an F1 spring set which can replace the Tamiya springs and might just be a tiny bit softer. I think for carpet you'll need to go harder than the red spring but I'm no expert there. For oil I usually start around 350 with a 2 hole piston (which I think is the std piston in the 3racing shock).

Front Castor - I used to run 2Deg which I think is the kit setting.
Out tuned diff - it's very handy and I rarely had an issue with it but I know other people found they didn't hold the settings very well and tended to come loose. It is also slightly wider than the std diff which offsets that side of the car which means the hub side needs to be shimmed out to keep it central.
Side links - make sure they are not binding and the same length.

You can also do the side spring conversion with Tamiya parts from the RM01/F104vr2.

From my own experience the F109 doesn't "like" being narrow. I can't give you a concrete reason why (pod link position?; twin deck fiberglass chassis?), but I always found it much more difficult to set up and drive at 180mm, so when you switch to the F104 front end and tyres I would recommend getting the tyres on offset rims (I think the aftermarket hubs that I once used to widen the front back out to 200mm are long gone)
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:26 PM
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I hope this looks right. Did the side spring mod with M3x20mm set screws, AE 12R5.2 spring retainers and VBC springs for AE R5. I put a dab of red thread lock on the retainers to hold them in place. They do not contact the chassis in the full up position, but can be screwed down.

I used quick setting JB kwik weld to epoxy a pair of spare axle pins from my TA03 in place of the long pins that hold the rear mounts for the upper deck. They were the perfect diameter and length.

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Last edited by WhiteLX; 03-15-2019 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:54 PM
  #1972  
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So a minor setback after attempting to install the brushless motor. I have 48p gears on this build currently, 69/27. In one orientation the motor hits the upper pod plate and I canít get the lower motor screw in place. In the other orientation, I can get the screws in, but itís a little too close to the axle for comfort. I feel one I solder the wires on, itís going to make contact.

So, has anyone had this issue? What did you do? I was thinking about notching the upper plate for clearance.

What is a good FDR to start with? Itís an indoor carpet track. A smaller pinion would create extra clearance, but I canít really go much larger. Would 64p help any?



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Old 03-12-2019, 10:15 PM
  #1973  
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The upper pod plate wraps all the way around, so i would think you could remove a brace to rotate the motor. That should not really hurt strength.
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
So a minor setback after attempting to install the brushless motor. I have 48p gears on this build currently, 69/27. In one orientation the motor hits the upper pod plate and I canít get the lower motor screw in place. In the other orientation, I can get the screws in, but itís a little too close to the axle for comfort. I feel one I solder the wires on, itís going to make contact.

So, has anyone had this issue? What did you do? I was thinking about notching the upper plate for clearance.

What is a good FDR to start with? Itís an indoor carpet track. A smaller pinion would create extra clearance, but I canít really go much larger. Would 64p help any?


Just cut the brace out of the top plate - pretty sure it was a standard mod back in the day.

No 64P will not help - the gears, essentially, are the same size just with a different number of teeth

No suggestions for FDR - start where you are and run it for maybe 3 minutes max and take a temperature reading. If the temperature is ok and the track performance is what you want then stick with it or change as needed
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:55 AM
  #1975  
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Anyone using a shorty lipo sideways rather than down the middle? I was going to epoxy down a couple strips of carbon to the chassis to hold the battery in place or use a small nut/screw through the chassis. This will make it far easier to swap batteries once I get the F104 front end installed since I won't be able to lift the front of the top plate. Removing the two middle thumbscrews relieves just enough pressure to slide a shorty lipo in/out. I just need something to keep it from sliding out the side. I may replace the middle triangle supports with aluminum posts so I can move the battery forward more for tuning.
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
Anyone using a shorty lipo sideways rather than down the middle? I was going to epoxy down a couple strips of carbon to the chassis to hold the battery in place or use a small nut/screw through the chassis. This will make it far easier to swap batteries once I get the F104 front end installed since I won't be able to lift the front of the top plate. Removing the two middle thumbscrews relieves just enough pressure to slide a shorty lipo in/out. I just need something to keep it from sliding out the side. I may replace the middle triangle supports with aluminum posts so I can move the battery forward more for tuning.
You can still lift the top chassis plate once you have an F104 front end - you modify the bottom of the F109 servo mount so the bottom arm of the suspension mounts flat to the chassis and then use a long screw (I don't remember exactly how long) to go through the suspension and into the servo mount but not all the way through to the top, then use the standard screw from the top to hold the top deck on. Don't try using the F104 servo mounts as they have a larger hole through them but the shape is essentially the same -



I don't recommend the battery sideways as I am 99% sure the side links get in the way, especially if you use the forward mounting point (as I do). I never found moving the battery around had that much impact on the F109 anyway.
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Old 03-13-2019, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
You can still lift the top chassis plate once you have an F104 front end - you modify the bottom of the F109 servo mount so the bottom arm of the suspension mounts flat to the chassis and then use a long screw (I don't remember exactly how long) to go through the suspension and into the servo mount but not all the way through to the top, then use the standard screw from the top to hold the top deck on. Don't try using the F104 servo mounts as they have a larger hole through them but the shape is essentially the same -



I don't recommend the battery sideways as I am 99% sure the side links get in the way, especially if you use the forward mounting point (as I do). I never found moving the battery around had that much impact on the F109 anyway.
Doesn't the upper arm ball nut attach on top of the top deck using the rear servo mounting holes?
No problems with the battery contacting the links, even in the forward position. It just clears with the battery against the posts. Even more so if I replace the current triangle shaped posts with straight posts. I'll post pictures this evening. I have an idea using 4-40 screws and some nylon nuts, completely reversible. I wanted to use metric, but no metric nylon nuts were available.
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:30 PM
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A few pictures of the sideways shorty Lipo.



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Old 03-13-2019, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
Doesn't the upper arm ball nut attach on top of the top deck using the rear servo mounting holes?
Sorry yes.. replace the Tamiya balls with 3Racing or other brand balls that have a hex in the ball so you can screw them in and out without popping the link on and off. I ran my car this way for at least a year with no issues
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:03 AM
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Has anyone used a rear bearing insert that allows for more offset? I'm not sure if the pod has enough room in the opening before the axle contacts the pod. I'm assuming Tamiya spec inserts can be used. I was looking at the Tuning Haus inserts. I want to be able to move the axle higher for lower ride height with F104 tires, without having to space the pod up. Looking to keep the COG lower. I currently have the 2.0mm inserts and it's about 6-6.5mm ride height at the pod.

I was looking at these:
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=9512
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=9510
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