where are the input shafts? the last tiem i ran my car was like 5 months ago!

in your diff case you will have the diff, which is the big gear, and another smaller gear. The smaller gear is attached to the input shaft. In the rear the input shaft will also have the spur gear on it and a drive cup on it that hold the driveshaft, and the input shaft in the front will just have the small gear and the drive cup on it.

BTW I like your avatar! :D

Tony: You ever try White Lightening on the diff gears? Is the Losi White grease the stuff they put on the diffs or on the thrust bearings>

eBoi: Check the pinion to spur mesh. If its too far apart the gears make a lot of racket.

cantbestopped44: If you're just starting out, get the TC3. Any of the belt drives that don't have sealed drive trains are trouble waiting to happen in the street or parking lot. You'll spend a lot less time turning wrenches with the TC3 than with the T1. AE parts are easy to get - try getting a T1 (or Yokomo) belt from your LHS on a Saturday night before Sunday's races. Save the extra bucks that you'd spend on the factory kit and buy yourself a decent FM radio. Like Modena says, get the Novak.

By the way, belts suck.

steer clear of M-Troniks.
They are a small uk company.
They have a reputatuion for reliability and interference problems.
There high end speedos are also ridiculously expensive.
Go with Novak/ LRP/GM. Tekin's good to but you won't
be abe to get it serviced,

Are ti hinge pins and turnbuckles unbreakable or don't bend?
If so at least not as much as steel ones?

My cheap AM radios completely gone this week and my car head on collided with track seperator at lightening speed.
I was practicing with modified.

Steering turnbuckle snapped off in half.

BTW hitec 5925 is very strong. It withstood that crash.

Way to go metal gear servo!

I ordered M8 and am crossing my fingers it doesn't cause too much glitching problem.

I guess I also need to solder more capacitors on the motor even though it has capacitors already surface mounted.
:o

rcruv - I use drill blanks as hinge pins. They are much straighter than the std pins and won't bend. However, they can shear off in a hard crash.

I use the BRP polished steel pins. They are dirt cheap ($5 a set) and they NEVER bend!

do you have some in stock Alan?

We don't have any instock right now, but I can order them for you next time im there. Don't know if they will be here before they next race, but I have a full set in my parts box if you want to buy them if they don't get here in time.

the set in your box are they like new, new. I might take you up on it.

They are brand new and have never been used. I bought 5 sets of them cause I wanted to have spares incase they bent....which they haven't done so yet :D.

cool, I'll buy a set from you next time I see you at the track

Ya, awhile ago. It works ok but I'm not too fond of that stuff flaking around inside the diff cases. It's probably ok but it wierds me out for some reason.

The Losi White Grease isn't (normally) used on the TC3 at all. The thrust bearings use the AE black and the diff uses the AE clear.

Just put a little on the pinion and diff gear (in the diff case), close it up, and run it. It will quiet it down pretty dramatically.

Opinion.......Who makes the best ride height guage......I saw one that had 1/2 mm. increments....but didnt see who made it........got a part #...and, does it come in blue???? thanks