65LikesTC3 Forum
10-22-2012, 05:50 AM
The Losi blocks and knuckles also work with the TC3 in case you can't find AE parts.
10-23-2012, 06:07 PM
Hey I just picked up a used tc3 and I think I may have destroyed the rear dif. Can any one tell me what to do to make this bullet proof? Where to find the stuff would also be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
10-24-2012, 11:42 AM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXPA07&P=K
I can't answer about "bulletproof" for you. What size gun did you shoot your car with?
10-24-2012, 12:39 PM
One of the best places to find Team Associated TC3 parts is to buy them directly from Team Associated's website. I did a quick check today and they still have most of the parts you would normally break on a TC3.
Here is the link to AE's website (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/...ords=exact_and)
----------
Other places to find parts online include:
- Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...C3&S2=&S3=&S4=)
- Stormer Hobbies (http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0)
- A Main Hobbies (http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...ords=tc3+parts)
Also if you have a local hobby store that can order directly from Great Planes, they should be able to get most of the parts for you.
Here is the link to AE's website (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/...ords=exact_and)
----------
Other places to find parts online include:
- Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...C3&S2=&S3=&S4=)
- Stormer Hobbies (http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0)
- A Main Hobbies (http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...ords=tc3+parts)
Also if you have a local hobby store that can order directly from Great Planes, they should be able to get most of the parts for you.
10-24-2012, 12:46 PM
(Edit: I have a deal pending on these right now)
I was recently going through some of my TC3 parts and found a set of unused 200mm front/rear arms that I would be willing to sell. PM if you are interested in them.
To repeat I have the following (new but out of package)
(2) new TC3 200mm front a-arms
(2) new TC3 200mm rear a-arms
----------
I also have some misc original electric TC3 a-arms without the droop screw hole. If someone was just bashing the car and wasn't worried about droop setting, I would be happy to sell those as well.
(Note: the original TC3 racer kits didn't come with drop screws on the arms/chassis nubs. You had to adjust droop using internal shock limiters - like you would on an Associated off-road vehicle)
I was recently going through some of my TC3 parts and found a set of unused 200mm front/rear arms that I would be willing to sell. PM if you are interested in them.
To repeat I have the following (new but out of package)
(2) new TC3 200mm front a-arms
(2) new TC3 200mm rear a-arms
----------
I also have some misc original electric TC3 a-arms without the droop screw hole. If someone was just bashing the car and wasn't worried about droop setting, I would be happy to sell those as well.
(Note: the original TC3 racer kits didn't come with drop screws on the arms/chassis nubs. You had to adjust droop using internal shock limiters - like you would on an Associated off-road vehicle)
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 10-28-2012 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Deal Pending
10-25-2012, 09:51 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I actually have 2 pairs of Trinity/Kinwald blue aluminum suspension block sets - does anyone know anything about these? They have no markings on them so I have no idea what degrees they might be - I suspect F-0 for the front, but the back I have no clue - might be stock - R+3+2?
They also use small delrin plastic inserts, my inserts are destroyed from the previous owner's crashes and the hinge pin being riped out - does anyone know where I can get more that'll fit the hinge pin and still press into the block? I can't find anything from Trinity, or ebay - GPM had something similar, but I've no idea if those would work.
They also use small delrin plastic inserts, my inserts are destroyed from the previous owner's crashes and the hinge pin being riped out - does anyone know where I can get more that'll fit the hinge pin and still press into the block? I can't find anything from Trinity, or ebay - GPM had something similar, but I've no idea if those would work.
10-25-2012, 04:06 PM
Some hobby shops still carry TC3 stuff, but its rare. I've got three TC3's, but I only run one of them regularly. Just can't justify selling them. Tower Hobbies is where I've found what I have needed. Here's a link to the diff:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXPA07&P=K
I can't answer about "bulletproof" for you. What size gun did you shoot your car with?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXPA07&P=K
I can't answer about "bulletproof" for you. What size gun did you shoot your car with?
10-26-2012, 05:37 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
...if anyone has one MIP Shiny CVD bone, 49-50mm, for the 190mm sedan - let me know, I need one to have a pair!
Last edited by HeavyD99; 10-27-2012 at 07:31 AM.
10-28-2012, 09:38 AM
Here's my TC3. I have run it in VTA now for about three years. Love this chassis. I had the help of a seasoned fellow racer on set up and now it drives just as nice as you can imagine. All stock parts except for aluminum front hubs. That helped with the shoulder screw loss problem. It is the FT version. I bought the chassis used for about $60 on ebay. It had little use. I took it apart completely and rebuilt it per the manual the first time. It was 95% at that point. Some tweeking of camber, droop and all and its great.
This is an HPI '69 Camaro Z28 body. Faskolor FasPearl Orange. You can see it on the track!
This is an HPI '69 Camaro Z28 body. Faskolor FasPearl Orange. You can see it on the track!
10-28-2012, 09:49 AM
Here's my TC3. I have run it in VTA now for about three years. Love this chassis. I had the help of a seasoned fellow racer on set up and now it drives just as nice as you can imagine. All stock parts except for aluminum front hubs. That helped with the shoulder screw loss problem. It is the FT version. I bought the chassis used for about $60 on ebay. It had little use. I took it apart completely and rebuilt it per the manual the first time. It was 95% at that point. Some tweeking of camber, droop and all and its great.
This is an HPI '69 Camaro Z28 body. Faskolor FasPearl Orange. You can see it on the track!
This is an HPI '69 Camaro Z28 body. Faskolor FasPearl Orange. You can see it on the track!
11-03-2012, 09:19 PM
Here's my TC3. I have run it in VTA now for about three years. Love this chassis. I had the help of a seasoned fellow racer on set up and now it drives just as nice as you can imagine. All stock parts except for aluminum front hubs. That helped with the shoulder screw loss problem. It is the FT version. I bought the chassis used for about $60 on ebay. It had little use. I took it apart completely and rebuilt it per the manual the first time. It was 95% at that point. Some tweeking of camber, droop and all and its great.
This is an HPI '69 Camaro Z28 body. Faskolor FasPearl Orange. You can see it on the track!
This is an HPI '69 Camaro Z28 body. Faskolor FasPearl Orange. You can see it on the track!
11-22-2012, 05:56 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Thought I'd share my most recent club racing experience with my "new" TC3 - it was good and bad. The good - it was a capable chassis at the club level. In my hands I was running 10.5 second laps (track is an indoor carpet track, fairly tight - maybe 80'x40' and we run 17.5 blinky/rubber. Anyhow I had one of our local hotshoes run it for me and he was hitting 9.4's consistently - the chassis could do it. I qualified at the bottom of the B main. The bad - I hit the boards in practice - twice, breaking a front arm and then a rear arm - the arms seem a bit brittle. I also broke a front carrier during one of my heats - needless to say once I stayed off the boards I was able to be competitive with the other more modern chassis, perhaps I had to be a bit cleaner in my driving to do better
. I did have a wicked "hook" at the end of the straight though, especially if I tried to carry speed through the corner - not sure how to cure that yet. Also, most online set ups are super stiff and make the car really twitchy - I started with purple (f) and copper (r) so I went down to red/blue. Much better! My oils were 60f/40r. I'm going to try a front sway bar next.
Many thanks to those who have helped me get to this point, Beemerfan for one and guys at my track - thanks!
. I did have a wicked "hook" at the end of the straight though, especially if I tried to carry speed through the corner - not sure how to cure that yet. Also, most online set ups are super stiff and make the car really twitchy - I started with purple (f) and copper (r) so I went down to red/blue. Much better! My oils were 60f/40r. I'm going to try a front sway bar next.Many thanks to those who have helped me get to this point, Beemerfan for one and guys at my track - thanks!
11-22-2012, 10:01 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Thought I'd share my most recent club racing experience with my "new" TC3 - it was good and bad. The good - it was a capable chassis at the club level. In my hands I was running 10.5 second laps (track is an indoor carpet track, fairly tight - maybe 80'x40' and we run 17.5 blinky/rubber. Anyhow I had one of our local hotshoes run it for me and he was hitting 9.4's consistently - the chassis could do it. I qualified at the bottom of the B main. The bad - I hit the boards in practice - twice, breaking a front arm and then a rear arm - the arms seem a bit brittle. I also broke a front carrier during one of my heats - needless to say once I stayed off the boards I was able to be competitive with the other more modern chassis, perhaps I had to be a bit cleaner in my driving to do better. I did have a wicked "hook" at the end of the straight though, especially if I tried to carry speed through the corner - not sure how to cure that yet. Also, most online set ups are super stiff and make the car really twitchy - I started with purple (f) and copper (r) so I went down to red/blue. Much better! My oils were 60f/40r. I'm going to try a front sway bar next.
Many thanks to those who have helped me get to this point, Beemerfan for one and guys at my track - thanks!
. I did have a wicked "hook" at the end of the straight though, especially if I tried to carry speed through the corner - not sure how to cure that yet. Also, most online set ups are super stiff and make the car really twitchy - I started with purple (f) and copper (r) so I went down to red/blue. Much better! My oils were 60f/40r. I'm going to try a front sway bar next.Many thanks to those who have helped me get to this point, Beemerfan for one and guys at my track - thanks!
TRy
blue front spring
40wt oil
silver rear spring
40wt oil
5mil ride ht.
11-22-2012, 10:31 PM
i run a bmi carbon fiber version greens 35wt all the way around 3 toe in rear and the shock tower shimmed up 3mm shocks straight up rear and third hole in in front (rear shock tower both ends)
had same problem until i went longest rear link upper holes and shimmed the rear tower up 3 mm i mostly run this on a low bite carpet at tracks with traction i will go up on the springs to blue or silver and not sauce just clean the tires after run
had same problem until i went longest rear link upper holes and shimmed the rear tower up 3 mm i mostly run this on a low bite carpet at tracks with traction i will go up on the springs to blue or silver and not sauce just clean the tires after run
Last edited by azeroth; 11-22-2012 at 10:39 PM. Reason: added info
11-28-2012, 03:04 AM
hey all, just recently getting back into carpet and some on road racing with a tc3 i picked up, decided to go the vta route and possibly some stock tc racing locally and have a few questions before heading down and getting in over my head. what is the best bearing kit for the money i can get? and where can i find the lightweight diffs with ceramic balls?
Last edited by nwv327; 11-28-2012 at 03:20 AM.