RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

Can't seem to find the 200mm front arms anywhere, several people carry the 200mm rear arms.

Anyone know where to get one or how to substitute for them?

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I was gonna convert my car to a rally car and never did. I think I still have the arms at home. I'll check when I get home

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

You'll need more than the arms -- you'll need longer CVD bones and turnbuckles too.

I have 2 TC3s -- one 190mm and one 200mm. There is only a slight difference between them. If anything, the 190 works better in low traction situations, and the 200 is better when the grip is way up.

You can get wider using offset wheels. HPI offers many in 0mm, 3mm and 6mm offsets. The 6mm option will make you 202mm wide.

SDNitroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Hopefully someone can help me out with this, I remember reading awhile back that the TC4 steering rack can be put on the TC3 with a slight modification of the chassis and thats it? Does anyone know what parts I need or a link to someone thats done it before? I tried to search but couldn't find anything, i found one reference two it that mentioned drilling two holes but it wasn't detailed enough.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Ill save you the headache... the Tc4 rack is garbage compared to the Tc3 rack. The only advantage with the Tc4 rack is its less likely to get trash in it if youre on unprepped race tracks. The Tc4 rack has to be maintained often to avoid the slop its so common for. It also feels less linear than the Tc3 rack.

If it is something you really wanna do, grab a Tc4 tub chassis, bolt it to your Tc3 chassis (bottom to bottom) with the servo saver adjustment hole. This lines up both chassis' centerlines and allows you to use the Tc4 steering rack holes as a guide to drill the Tc3 chassis for the Tc4 steering rack posts. Thats the easy part. If you look at the Tc4 chassis, you can see the smooth area where the steering rack swings. That same area needs to be cleared out of all the ribbing on the Tc3 chassis. I think its fairly obvious at this point to see one of the reasons the Tc4 tub flexed so much more than a Tc3 tub.

Other than that, you need the entire Tc4 steering rack for the installation. Buy the rack bearings, dont waste your time with the rack bushings. Some will say the bushings provide less slop... initially yes, but in the long run the bearings maintain a measurable amount of slop, and make the best out of a sloppy situation. If you make sure each post measures the same length, it will be easier for you to shim the slop out.

Hopefully you have a metal gear servo... you also need to use an AE diff adjuster spring for the servo saver. Buy extra racks, a good smack to the wall snaps the Tc4 rack dead in two. Thats another good reason be be sure you set the rack up needing very little shimming. Its no fun doing that crap between heats.

Can ya tell i have some wheel time behind both chassis? lol Hope that helps ya some.

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

just subscribing

SDNitroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Thanks DaveW for the extensive info on the TC3/TC4 steering, that was exactly the info I was looking for.

My case is a little bit different though, I'm looking for a bit more adjust ability as far as turn angle goes. My TC3 is setup for drift not grip racing so slop is in my case not as important but still something I take into consideration of course. Would the TC4 steering rack provide better steering angle ?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Do you mean steering angle between both tires (ackerman)? Or overall steering angle meaning maximum left and right throw?

Both racks can turn the steering blocks to contact the lower front suspension arms (steering ballcup to arm contact, assuming bumpsteer is adjusted properly). The Tc3 rack stops there though, with its physical limitations allowing it to slide no further.

The Tc4 rack will give you a little more maximum left and right throw (with modifications to the right parts), but the throw will feel very slow and more proportionate at that angle. Giving your use though, that might not be a bad idea, trying to find that sweet spot to drift and having less sensitivity at that angle.

If its ackerman adjustment youre asking about, the Tc4 rack has a little more adjustment available than the Tc3 rack. For grip racing, there is pretty much only one place to set it for the swing rack to work (shim steering rack ballstuds to put the ballcups as close to the back/front suspension mount as possible w/o contact).

Some guys back in the day decided to try the NTc3 swing rack because it swings towards the front suspension L-R centerline, or even flipping the Tc4 rack to swing like the NTc3 rack. I have never personally used a flipped Tc4 rack, but others said it was better than the rack swinging away from the L-R centerline of the front suspension. Those opinions were also for grip, not drift purposes... so i guess that kinda puts you on your own for results.

SDNitroGuy

iTrader: (6)

By steering angle I mean maximum left/right angle. I have my Spektrum DX2 set to 112% ST and I have just shy of 1-2mm on the left / right slide block before it reaches the end, even with the car off I cant get it to go beyond that so I'm guessing thats the maximum. I thought about extending the turnbuckles that attach the wheels to the center steering rack but wouldn't that put in unwanted toe in / out ? Would you happen to know how I can maximize steering angle? I'll try and get a picture later tonight of how far mine go, I might just be at the end of the TC3's capabilities. Thanks!

hotrodchevy14

iTrader: (115)

[QUOTE=IndyRC_Racer;5348921]Here are a couple of responses to recent questions in this thread:














I had the same problem being beat down the straight, but figured out I had the car setup too stiff. The USVTA class comes down to tires more than anything else. The HPI Vintage tires are a harder compound and take a bit to break-in. If you setup your car softer you will find that you get better forward traction. I'm currently running silver springs up front with green springs in the rear as a starting point.

What wieght shock oils do you suggest?
Thanks

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

General rule of thumb on oil is that lighter springs want lighter oil. The idea of damping is to control the action of the spring, so a lighter spring requires less damping. With Silver and Green springs, I'd be thinking somewhere in the 25-35 range. To increase grip, you can also increase ride height for more weight transfer.













I had the same problem being beat down the straight, but figured out I had the car setup too stiff. The USVTA class comes down to tires more than anything else. The HPI Vintage tires are a harder compound and take a bit to break-in. If you setup your car softer you will find that you get better forward traction. I'm currently running silver springs up front with green springs in the rear as a starting point.

What wieght shock oils do you suggest?
Thanks[/QUOTE]

hotrodchevy14

iTrader: (115)

[QUOTE=jhberger;7127730]General rule of thumb on oil is that lighter springs want lighter oil. The idea of damping is to control the action of the spring, so a lighter spring requires less damping. With Silver and Green springs, I'd be thinking somewhere in the 25-35 range. To increase grip, you can also increase ride height for more weight transfer.



thank you. maybe i will go with 25 since the tires are new

Xander Bolanos

iTrader: (3)

Hello I got to about 200 pages for this thread and I realised I was still in 2002 I recently purchased a TC3 off ebay for $50 it was supposed to be rtr but was basically a roller when I got it, it came with a 27t motor I got going with some wd40 and a airgun and LRP digital esc with reverse the old green one. Both had missing plugs and I had to wire deans to the motor I ran it for a couple day then I opted instead to buy a mamba max esc and 5700kv motor from castle. I have since installed said esc motor combo and some nice treaded rubber tires. I am not getting the speeds I want from this and I think its due alot in part to the gearing. Which I believe is the stock spur gear and pinion (pics below) holding me back currently I am running 7.2 volt 3800mah intellect matched 6 cells, I have a 2cell lipo in the works locally and will buy a 3cell online but before I spend over a $100 on batteries can someone please help me gear this parking lot basher so it flys and I don't fry my motor or esc
I also slammed into a curb full speed and snapped my front a arm on the drivers side. I have since ordered a arms from a utah hobby shop since my local hobby town in Omaha 2 hours away does not carry TC3 parts only TC4 and TC5
but I noticed that the new arms have little screws in them and the ones that are on my TC3 now do not guessing they are original release ones????????

I would really appreciate any help here
I also think I will buy the rpm blue bumper guard and a parma bumper these seem to save a arms and front end parts any tips or suggestions on parts so I can hit walls and not cry would be great

addicted

iTrader: (76)

Xander
the best option i could give u at present, Having run TC3 with mamba systems, is to upgrade your cell pack and then work on gearing, Mamba systems mutate on voltage The more u give them the better they perform. Not sure how old ur NiMh arre but they wouldnt be able to supply the voltage , Grab urself a 2 cell lipo firstly. Then when u get used to the power go for the 3 cell( crawl before u walk) the system will be nutz on a 3 cell to the point of not being fun..

Oh BTW i am running a 72 spur on my rig


....Tony

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

I'm trying to upgrade from TC3 Steel diffs to the aluminum outdrives. I also have the composite outdrives. The steel built as described in the instruction manual work OK. When I build either the composite or the aluminum following the instructions in the TC4 manual they do not work. I bottom out the screw then back off a 1/2 turn as per instructions and they act like a locked diff. If I back it off until I can rotate the out drives the gear slips. Its like the diff balls are too small and the diff rings are contacting the gear instead of the diff balls. I am using the same gear, balls and diff rings from the steel diff. What am doing wrong. I have checked out the associated forums as well.
HELP!!!!!