Thanks much Indy. Be picking up a few things I guess.

Searched but didn't find what I was looking for. this may seem like a dumb questions so I apologize in advance.

I have a TC3 that I havent really run yet.. I ordered an Associated sedan body online (new) that said was for a TC3, but when it arrived it said TC4 and has all the holes pre-made.

The back holes are a couple inches set further back then the body mounts on the car.

Besides cutting new holes (Which isn't a big deal, I would just rather not), what can I do to make this line up? Can I use a TC4 shock-tower/body mount?

Dunno about your lining up issues really. Best way to do it, like any other TC racer, is line it up and ream some new holes in the right position.

anyways, i just got my Tc3 back from a friend who borrowed it and plan on running RCGT with it again. Gonna be hitting up medium to high traction indoor and outdoor tracks and was looking at Barry Baker's 02 ROAR paved onroad nats setup. Has anyone tried that setup?

Yar, that's what I will probably do. Just wish the damn thing came undrilled. The rear holes I'll have to drill are right on the back window

Bad Associated... Bad!

I would get a tc4 shock tower. the mounts will bolt up to it fine. I broke my tc4 tower and had to run a tc3 tower till my new one got in. The only differance was had to make new holes closer in..
phil

so you guys prefer the spool to a one way in the front?, also has anyone had a good experiance with the digity desghins conversion , i have three tc3s i run at a local carpet track , a stock chassis unit a hardcore titanium conversion and another stock i want to convert to the diggity unit but woul like some feed back on it . i love my tc3s

I went from a Diff to a home made spool. I don't notice much of a diffrence going into the corners and a little better comming off but not a HUGE diffrence. Its also nice to not have 2 diffs to wory about :nod:

Excess play up front
 

I run a TC3 in VTA and have a lot of slop in the front end. It seems that there's a little play in everything and it just adds up until the camber and toe can only be set with ±2° accuracy. It has the stock steering rack.

I have another TC3 that I run in RCGT with 200mm arms and the NTC3 steering conversion. It seems to have less slop, but only part of that I can attribute to the steering mod.

I'm thinking of replacing all the ball cups and seeing if that makes a diff.

Anybody have any good tips for tightening up the front?

There's probably some slop in several spots- A-Arm mounts, caster blocks included. Maybe you can shim them, or just replace.

Sloppy in front
 

Dug through the parts box last night and replaced almost everything in the front -- arms, caster blocks, hubs, rod ends -- and it tightened up nicely. hinge pins were straight and the hinge blocks were as good as new.

The caster block-to-hub connection is weak on the TC3. There is a lot of natural tolerance in the design that you just can't get rid of.

I usually grab TC3 suspension parts whenever I see them. I'm gonna keep that up.

It's almost always the steering knuckles. They get sloppy over time with regular use. The time span gets significantly shorter if you add frequent impacts. There's typically not much play between the carrier block bushings ans the steering blocks themselves tho. Associated cars are notoriously sloppy anyway, many have worked to remove the slop only to find the cars didn't work as well. :lol:

Frequent Impacts
 

"Frequent impacts." Now you're talking my language! I admit that crashing is part of the slop problem and I'm a repeat offender. I think your main point is well-taken -- there's a lot of natural slop in the car and it's hard to get it out without ending up with binding parts and a whole other setup challenge.

I've got a TC5 coming for RCGT and we'll see if that's any tighter.

TC3 electronics
 

Good afternoon all,
Rather than search through all the 11,000 + posts :eek: Or try to search through the countless threads which I have already done. I figured I will just ask here. I bought a TC3 roller from a guy off here. Now I though I would just put my electronics from my T3 into the car and be on the road. I figured wrong. It seemed like everything was too big. And the motor dosen't fit in the saddle correctly.When I put the motor in the saddle (at least I think thats what its called) and I put the pinion gear on the end bell. The pinion gear almost comes in contact with the spur gear. Am I missing something? I looked online and it looks like amain sells micro E.S.C. and motor combos. Is that what I need to get the car running? Is there a specific servo I should be using as well? Any info is as always appreciated Thanks

Not much, I have one of those too.:nod: same basic design in the trouble area, the carrier bushings are a little beefier as is the hardware. The steering blocks seem to last longer. Be sure to buy a Parma bumper for your TC5 or you can just buy a whole bunch of caster blocks. :lol:

The TC3 Was designed back in the days of larger ESC's (over1" footprint), so there should be plenty of room- although not as much as you'd find in a truck like the T3. What electronics are you using?