Bubblestc3

Sure is dead in here today!
Proficar403, where do you get your graphite? I still have not been able to get my hands on any carbon fiber...

davepull

My car is fast but i am having a problem with blistering the front tires and the car is a bit on the tight side off the corner

here is my set up

use rear tower
4 deg castor
f-0 block
0 toe
5mm ride height
shocks and camber links
40 wt #2 pistion blue spring 6 mm droop
camber link up and in mount shock in middle hole and outer hole on arm
.055 bar 1 deg camber

rear
3+2 block
5.5 ride height
.055 bar
medium wheel base
shocks
40wt #2 pistion silver spring 4 mm droop
camber links up and in mount shocks in middle hole and outer hole on arm

I ran cs 22 takeoffs a c2 motor with 98 spur 37 pin

used trinity death grip tire cleaner and rubber tire only traction put it on
after each race and let sit as per instuctions on bottle

protoform stratus 2.0 body

I put the 22's on because the car would just slide with 27's I was using the front and rear bars to control the roll. I intially when I went to the track today had 2 .063 bars and the 2+2 block and 27's tires and the car was a bag just pushed when I switched to the .055 bars and 3+2 block and the 22's the car was better but still needs to be looosed up coming off the corner.

I was alos thinking of running no bars or just the rear bar?

=MisFitz= NuKe

Are you haveing tight problems as in too much steering out of the corner, or too much rear traction?

Too much steering: go to 5mm front droop

Too much rear traction: go to rear block R+2-0 or R+2-2

davepull

it is a on power push. see I had .063 bars and the 2+2 block and 27s I could only do like a 15.2 lap put .055 bars and the 3+2 block and 22's and did my first sub 15 laps with a best of 14.6 (which is the fastest lap on that track)


so do you think that I should put the 2+2 block in and try it. if it is better but still not enough goto the 2+0 block.

davepull

also have you heard of people using the f2 block in plack of the 2+0 block. it is suposed to give the car like 1/2 deg of toe in

=MisFitz= NuKe

well, for on power push, try going to 2+0 then go to the 2+2, also, you could try a thick sway bar in rear and thin in the front, just 3 degrees is a lot of toe-in, this change should help the car rotate a bit better, also, when you try the 2+2, the wont let as much weight transfer as fast to the rear, providing less rear traction initially.

davepull

I'll try the 2+0 BLOCK. I had the 2+2 block but we only run 2 quals and the main so after 2 rounds of pushing i made the change to the 22's and 3+2 block and lighter bars. just to many changes at once funny thing is the block I changed like 2 min before the race. you should have been there I was I 3rd place car not even a factor. made the changes and had the lead till the last corner. from 15.2 to a 14.6 with these little changes I hope I can get it to 14.4


what about the blistering problem?

=MisFitz= NuKe

no that I am not sure about, I am running sorex 28Rs and I am messing with different inserts and changing the airgap in the tire, but still no luck. I am pretty sure it is caused by the car creating too much traction, but I stiffen the oil, and the car feels like it is on ice


If I do figure something out I will let you know.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Bubbles: You can get good graphite sheets from IRS direct online. You can also contact Hyperdrive... (www.hyperdriveracing.com they build oval cars) they have been known in the past to sell sheet carbon fiber of differing thicknesses and sizes.

Lem2: Thank you for the information! It doesnt HELP me any but thanks anyways!! I wish there was a way to get good items like that here in the states! We seem to miss out on alot of good items for these cars because of availability.

Proficar: One month man, are you excited to be goin to the birds?! I see you are signed up, have you gotten everything ready to go?! Are you going to set your car down on the track with a front or rear shock tower on the front of the car? One-way? Im goin dual diffs with small (std) front shock tower. No spools or one-ways for me. I will have one of each just in case, but i want to try and stay away from them. I got my time off from work as of yesterday... ill be in Orlando JAN 30th, and dont have to be back to work till the 10th of FEB! Its like a mini vacation!
- Dave

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Speedtechrc.com sells them too

trackdesigner71

iTrader: (6)

Im kinda stumped as to where the motor mount screws go on the TC3. Im ordering a new set for it and I dont want them going in the wrong spot. also, what size is the ball end on the servo saver for it?

davepull

made the following changes to the car we'll see what happens at the track friday

tightened diffs as per instuction but backed front off 1/4 and rear 3/8

changed front droop to 5

changed rear springs from silver to gold
put the 2+2 block back in.

my game plan is to try the car in practice to see how it feels if ok then run it in first qual and check times I am thinking of going to blue rear springs if to loose.

Arun

Bubbles: I have always gotten my graphite from penguinrc.com. They take paypal and offer graphite in 4 thicknesses. I got the 2.5mm sheet for 22.99.

Dave: Man, I can't wait! I'll be there probably around the 30th also. I have not tried the rear shock tower on front for carpet yet, believe it or not, but I have made many other different changes. I will be testing it this weekend probably. The spool/one-way seemed to be the ticket for asphalt here, but it is to my understanding that they will do me no good when traction gets super-high like it will in Orlando. I am also switching to Double Pink/Double Pink Orange (that's kind of hard to say everytime someone asks you what tires you run ). Right now I have many sets of those tires on back order through a friend. I hope that they come in soon or else I'll have to spend like fifty more bucks buying them locally. I'm already crunched as it is !

hyperformance

Proficar403, don't you run at Fernando's place in Kennasaw GA? hows the new carpet down there. we're coming down for the Tri-State event on the 10th.

davepull: adjusting the diffs per manual doesn't give much room for comparison front to rear. here's what i do, when checking the front diff set the car on the table pointing away from you, lay your left forearm across the front tire to hold them from spinning, now use your right hand to hold the chassis and spin the spur with your right thumb. use a simiar method to check the rear, i hold the tires with my hands and reach my right thumb over to spin the spur. you want the diffs to feel smooth while spinning one wheel while the others freewheel but you need them tight enought not to slip while holding the wheels from turning. i usually run my front with no slippage and set the back just slightly looser with a little slip.

Arun

Yes, I race at Fernando's. I like the carpet track very much. I had never run on carpet before racing there, but the carpet is in good shape and the layout is excellent for the small track. Many who raced there last year said that this is the best layout yet.