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=MisFitz= NuKe: the cutting depth is 1,25mm, itīs half of the chassis thickness
I think I found out how to get 2° anti dive. The rear inner block has itīs holes a little higher than the front. I think with the front f-0 block and the rear inner block mounted up front you should get 2° anti dive. |
Originally posted by Pit Crew Lee: Run the 2 deg hub with the F-2 in front for a total of 4 degrees. This will increase your steering into the corners slightly more because there is less "anti-dive". Its called Kick-up, and lets chassis weight more effectively transfer forward, increasing front traction. |
Negative front kick
if i may ... negative front kick-up or anti-dive is a tuning option some team drivers use. i know the losi team guys like hodge use this as well as the Yokomo SD drivers like masami (a close look at some of their set-up sheets show this). they do this sometimes so they can tap on the brakes when diving into a corner when using a one way. the negative kick up front helps prevent too much weight from the rear to unload to the front and keeps the front of the car flatter. this is somthing a lot of the losi guys did in the 2001 nats at speedworld so they could brake down the end of the straight while running a one way. masami ran negative kick in this year's reedy race and i wouldnt be surprised if the AE team guys have played around with this as well.
lem2: thanks for the link. i was expecting it would be pricey. just wanted to get a closer look at the crest chassis and deck coz it looks really sweet! :nod: |
I can see that ROBORAT, btw, you know that avatar of yours was copyrited:DJK.
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proudwinner: yeah i know. so i should catch those guys who've been using it! ha ha ha :lol: jk!
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new car
Hi
I was wondering about buying a tc3 factory team now. Which hop up parts is a good thing to buy? Does it come with a one way? And which spare parts is also a good thing to have? Please help sturla |
Hmm i would pickup an RPM full width bumper it would stop some breakages, front wishbones and hub carriers is all i have broken, the RPM bumper i purchased later and since then ive just broken a single ball cup and servo gears :flaming:
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Re: new car
Originally posted by sturla Hi I was wondering about buying a tc3 factory team now. Which hop up parts is a good thing to buy? Does it come with a one way? And which spare parts is also a good thing to have? Please help sturla u can get the regular break prone parts.and yes,the bumper. the parts are like arms,c-hubs,steering knuckles etc. also stock up get steel CVD's instead of aluminium if u're running mod. |
Also get some extra front steering blocks. I've broken two of them clipping sweeper's even with the RPM front bumper. But other wise I haven't broken any thing with the rpm front bumper.
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Originally posted by TurnNBurn Hi Guys, I did a search in this thread and I couldn't find an answer to what I wanted to know, so I thought I'd go ahead and ask. BTW, someone posted a few weeks ago asking if anyone besides Yokomo and IRS made a spool for the TC3 - Dragon R/C makes one, as a matter a fact, believe that Mark Pavidis has used it from time to time... Anyway, back to my question? Can anyone give me quick pointers on when a one-way or spool should be used? I've never tried using one (actually, I don't have either yet), so I'd like to know what situations I should be thinking about using one or the other vs. a diff... Thanks!:) with the yok, i like to use steed cvd's to prevent from ever loosing an outdrive with the ae(it is older) you should use any metal cvd(ie. aluminum, steel) never use composite!(or if you do, be VERY careful while driving, if you snap one, you lost an outdrive which is 22$) spool i guess use the same thing, but use the steel ones(like the oneway, the drivetrain does not "give" at all so once the wheel hits the ground, and your on the gas, it will put a strained twist on the cvd) differences, the spool pushes a lot more than the oneway entering the corners, while it is the same while exiting the corners |
Re: new car
Originally posted by sturla Hi I was wondering about buying a tc3 factory team now. Which hop up parts is a good thing to buy? Does it come with a one way? And which spare parts is also a good thing to have? Please help sturla spare parts, hmmm extra set of hingpins and suspension arms that is about it, but run your car first, if you crash it and break a part, note how hard that you hit it, and if it was just a normal crash then i would get parts accordingley parts also depend on avalibility, where you are going to drive your car, is there a place where you can buy parts if you break it? or is the place that you will drive away from a place to buy parts? here at SoCal, we have an onsite hobby shop(just incase) |
Originally posted by Manfredo The chassis is done by me. Price is around 90,- Euro without shipping (graphite chassis incl. milling). You have a private message!!!! PEACE |
Manfredo- You have any pictures of the top side?
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HeY!!! i have 2 TC3s and i love both of them. I got just a racer kit about 1/12 yrs. ago and i just hopped it up w/ all graphite and that and also my freinds dad made a pair of alum. arms for him and i and they are awesome. I then got another one for a foam car since i loved the TC3 so much and i never had any probs w/ it. i now got 2 one car for rubber and one car for foam so i don't have to switch stuff and also i can run both now at every clubrace and maybe big race. well i think that AE and LoSi are prolly the top 2 on-road cars all though i never owned one though but yeah i love my TC3.:nod:
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Manfredo,
Still waiting on those top pics:) What kind of turn around are we talking and do you supply the chassis? Kick up. I have been running -1 kick up on the TC3 and am now running -2. All you do is shim the f block up (desired amount) and run the f-0. Puts the arm at a downward angle. I will try to post pics later. |
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