Coxy
 

Correct my droop is according to the TC3 gauge. My car also worked extremely well with Barry Bakers setup on the Associated web site. Rubber tires setup that is.

But other then that my car is the recommended setup for carpet in the TC3 instruction book and the TC3 tuning guide.

Hope this helps.

Later:)

Ok yea I need more info on Foam carpet set-up. But with droop ok thats fine if you measure it on the droop gauge but how much up travel would you end up with. Say wheels on the ground with 5mm ride height and then lift the car while keeping the front wheels on the ground, now how much ride height do you have.

Coxy.

You explained it very well ... even the first time if that was you ... just enough material taken off to allow the bumper to slide out from under the diff cases ... ;)

Thanks a bunch ...

It was IMPACTPLAYR that originally responded ... thanks to you both ...

It depends on your driving ability ... but in my experience ... you will probably break suspension arms (aka. A-Arms) ...

Coxy,

Try 5.5 front and 6 rear. I run my car at 4 mm and run about .5 to 1 of front up travel and 1 to 2 rear up travel. Depends on bite for the particular track. This is definitely a better way to set the droop than on the gauge. Ride height and tire size play a huge role.

thanks mate, and I am glad you understood what I meant. I thought it was around 2 mm up travel but I was running way too much when I tryed it on the droop gauge. I will let you know how it goes compared to what I have been runing.

Coxy.

Droop Gauge
 

This whole droop gauge thing has had me irritated for some time. If you alter the lower part of the chassis in any way... your overall droop settings will never match anyone elses. By alter i mean... shave, sand, whatever it takes to remove some material from the lower part of the chassis. I started shaving 1mm, and countersinking the screw holes, from the thickness of my chassis long ago. When everyone else was running 5mm... i was effectively running 4mm. Our local track was very strict on ride height... they didnt want the TC's tearing up the carpet. (we had to pass tech every qualifier/main at a club race!) Doing this also changed rollrate of the car... and allowed me to use the upper/inside camber locations while lowering the weight of the car for more traction and corner speed. Then using losi rear hubs with the raised ballstud... i could alter rollcenter with shims under the front or rear ballstud on the hubs for precise adjustments. Anyways... my point was this... due to changes on the chassis i had to find another way to measure droop. The stock gauge sat on the chassis, and since it was thinner than before... it would skew the settings. With the car at ride height ready to run, sans the body, i would lift each end of the car and measure from ride height, how much the chassis raised before the droop screws hit the tabs on the chassis. (this is a little time consuming initially... since ride height has to be achieved with the shocks in place... and it is easier to get the chassis to raise evenly with no shocks on the car) I believe this has been referred to as static droop on here before, but i am not sure if it is done in a similar way as i have just mentioned. With all this mentioned... i dont think utilizing a droop gauge number can always be the answer. There are more factors involved, and with all these milled and altered chassis floating around... that droop gauge number becomes useless unless you have a stock and unchanged chassis, and an unwarped droop gauge. (the stock plastic gauge is usually not even flat!) I tell ya, racing at a carpet track with alot of fast racers can sure suck the fun out of droppin the car down and takin a few laps! :lol: Anyways... my .02
- Dave

Dave,

Good points. But the droop guage does have one great use!!! After youve set the droop srews where you want it for uptravel-you can now take off the wheels and shocks and use the droop guage to even up the droop right nd left as thats critical to consistent handling!!!

I use my Hudy blocks and droop guage from my gas cars to set-droop. Great tools!!!

Ray

Coxy - That's a great avatar. Do you have a larger version of it?

Hi everyone,

Trying to locate a 2speed gearbox for a tc3. I have seen 1 on ebay but dont have any info as to brand or what is required to get it to fit.

Need it for a special project.

Cheers

there is one i saw that hust goes on the motor, it should work with any car.

To get my FT tc3 level i after have to use more thread on the rear left hand shock than i do the rear right (gap is bigger between thread and top of shock)I was trying to get the presure the same on each side by using calipers but when i had the threads the same left & right the chassis wasn't level,has any one else come across this??
Stevie
what would you sugest is a good starting point for droop on carpet-with- foams-&-Rubber
Thanks ;)

yes that happens to me and prolly most of the tc3s out there. The reason is because the weight on that side is heavier (batts 3300s) and electronics are getting lighter and lighter. If you mill your chassis, the balance would be greatly improved.
johnny

once you set the tweak on your chassis you are most likely going to have different amounts of preload from left to right. basically just set your ride height with the shock collars so your chassis is even at all four corners. then set the tweak on a tweak station or with an exacto blade. then your chassis will have even weight distribution although the shock collars may be at different heights.