65LikesTC3 Forum
03-29-2003, 04:23 PM
#4636
Mike,
I've used the Niftech swivel pins and the IRS pin cushions. Both has their pluses and minuses. The Niftech swivel pins are $$$$. I kept crushing the IRS pin cushions in mod.
My favorite and my recommendation (these work in both stock and mod) is the Schumacher C-blades. I used to run an Axis so I had some left over Schumacher axles. However, you can buy 4 axles, pop their pins out (the pins hold the C-blades in place), pop the pins out of the AE axles, and pop the Schumacher pins in. Cap those pins off with the C-blades.
I have a tool that makes popping the pins in and out of the axles very easy - especially for the aluminum AE axles. Hudy makes a similar tool:
http://www.hudy.net/products/accessories/index.htm
and check out the "Hudy Assembly Tool" (part numbers 10 6000/10 6001).
Since you run the composite axles they come out very easily so you can probably rig something up to pop the pins out using pliers and a hammer.
-Rich
I've used the Niftech swivel pins and the IRS pin cushions. Both has their pluses and minuses. The Niftech swivel pins are $$$$. I kept crushing the IRS pin cushions in mod.
My favorite and my recommendation (these work in both stock and mod) is the Schumacher C-blades. I used to run an Axis so I had some left over Schumacher axles. However, you can buy 4 axles, pop their pins out (the pins hold the C-blades in place), pop the pins out of the AE axles, and pop the Schumacher pins in. Cap those pins off with the C-blades.
I have a tool that makes popping the pins in and out of the axles very easy - especially for the aluminum AE axles. Hudy makes a similar tool:
http://www.hudy.net/products/accessories/index.htm
and check out the "Hudy Assembly Tool" (part numbers 10 6000/10 6001).
Since you run the composite axles they come out very easily so you can probably rig something up to pop the pins out using pliers and a hammer.
-Rich
Originally posted by mike_Webb
Guys...I have the IRS Aluminum Front Diff. I had to buy it down at snowbirds because I was poping the CVD's out of the Diff down there and that was the only solution I could come up with to fix it. My problem is that now I have 2 hugh gashes in it where the CVD Pins press agaisnt it. What can I do to stop this from happening? I heard of Diff Savers that go over the Pins but I tired that with heat shrink and it was very very hard to get into the Diff and now my drivetrain is not as free as it was without the heatshrink. I use the composite bones.
thanks
Mike Webb
Guys...I have the IRS Aluminum Front Diff. I had to buy it down at snowbirds because I was poping the CVD's out of the Diff down there and that was the only solution I could come up with to fix it. My problem is that now I have 2 hugh gashes in it where the CVD Pins press agaisnt it. What can I do to stop this from happening? I heard of Diff Savers that go over the Pins but I tired that with heat shrink and it was very very hard to get into the Diff and now my drivetrain is not as free as it was without the heatshrink. I use the composite bones.
thanks
Mike Webb
03-29-2003, 04:32 PM
#4637
Rcracer, The Xr2 is ok but it's a AM radio. If you plan on racing (and you will after you get tired of bashing around) you might get radio hit's standing near other people with FM radio's I know I did.
Save your money and get the JRXr3i radio or something equal. Buy a car kit and build it yourself so you will know how it was built and you will know how to fix it. All you would need is a speed control.
Save your money and get the JRXr3i radio or something equal. Buy a car kit and build it yourself so you will know how it was built and you will know how to fix it. All you would need is a speed control.
03-29-2003, 04:48 PM
#4638
Mike Webb: Yeah i know what you mean about "hulk force" when tightening the ballstud. I dont exactly whip out a torque wrench when i put em in... but i just tighten them enough to be snug. That was why i was so miffed about the last set stripping out. The locktite i added did seem to make it fit better... but it was only a temporary fix. I appreciate all the responses guys... 
Stormperson: Running 6 degrees of caster... are you running on carpet? And why would the ackerman be different? Is the arm on the Losi knuckle THAT much different that you would need to shim the rack?
And does anyone have the part numbers for the optional caster blocks from Losi? I got the Losi graphite 0 degree ones, since im running on asphalt. The car has a little tendency to turn a bit too much coming off the corner with the ASC 0 degree... so i was thinking of going to the 2 degree Losi blocks. Again guys, thanks for all the help!
- Dave
Stormperson: Running 6 degrees of caster... are you running on carpet? And why would the ackerman be different? Is the arm on the Losi knuckle THAT much different that you would need to shim the rack?
And does anyone have the part numbers for the optional caster blocks from Losi? I got the Losi graphite 0 degree ones, since im running on asphalt. The car has a little tendency to turn a bit too much coming off the corner with the ASC 0 degree... so i was thinking of going to the 2 degree Losi blocks. Again guys, thanks for all the help!
- Dave
03-29-2003, 05:16 PM
#4639
do the losi sterring knuckles really work better than the tc3 sterring knuckles
03-30-2003, 06:40 AM
#4640
I am running on carpet (its pretty much all we run in the northeast, lol. whats this asphault i have been hearing so much about? )
and the losi knuckle's hole for the ballstud is like 2-4mm further forward than the AE ones. I dont know if it makes a big difference.
I have never heard of guys sheering off the IRS pin cusions. There is a guy at my track who is an A main mod driver (mostly runs carpet) and he runs pin cusions and has run them with solid front axles, and he has twisted cvd's, but he doesnt kill the pin cusions (and this is on carpet when there is alot more force applied to them). however like any part, you need to replace it periodically, since of course they do wear out. I go through cvd bones every few months (some guys replace them every month) since the pin that holes them to the axle reams out a larger hole in the bone. I normally run stock, but when i run mod i generally replace my pin cusions every month or so.
and the losi knuckle's hole for the ballstud is like 2-4mm further forward than the AE ones. I dont know if it makes a big difference.
I have never heard of guys sheering off the IRS pin cusions. There is a guy at my track who is an A main mod driver (mostly runs carpet) and he runs pin cusions and has run them with solid front axles, and he has twisted cvd's, but he doesnt kill the pin cusions (and this is on carpet when there is alot more force applied to them). however like any part, you need to replace it periodically, since of course they do wear out. I go through cvd bones every few months (some guys replace them every month) since the pin that holes them to the axle reams out a larger hole in the bone. I normally run stock, but when i run mod i generally replace my pin cusions every month or so.
03-30-2003, 06:46 PM
#4641
I'm not sure if you were referring to my post, but I said "crush" not "shear."
03-30-2003, 07:00 PM
#4642
Thanks Stormperson... ill have to get the calipers out and do a little measurement! I wish i could run on carpet again. I mention "carpet" at my local track and they look at me like im a freak. "Why would you want to run on that?!" 
I miss my middle east hometown where carpet was king. Here, carpet is where you rub your feet after sloppin the hogs. God i hope noone takes that personal... but between the constant rain, and lack of M8 handling... i think im going through R/C withdrawal! Can someone PLEASE build an indoor facility in the Gulf Coast area?!
- Dave
I miss my middle east hometown where carpet was king. Here, carpet is where you rub your feet after sloppin the hogs. God i hope noone takes that personal... but between the constant rain, and lack of M8 handling... i think im going through R/C withdrawal! Can someone PLEASE build an indoor facility in the Gulf Coast area?!- Dave
03-30-2003, 09:56 PM
#4643
Servo Savers
When i got my Servo i bought a servo saver with it. But the servo saver doesnt fit unless i dremel a bit outta the chassis and i dont wanna do that. So does the TC3 have a built in servo saver or should i get another one that fits? Its a FT if that helps
03-30-2003, 10:10 PM
#4644
Tech Adept
just use the Tc3's provided servo arms and youll be fine.
I noticed a lot of guys cut down teh motor clamp. Can this be done on the black one? Also does anyone make one yet?
I noticed a lot of guys cut down teh motor clamp. Can this be done on the black one? Also does anyone make one yet?
03-30-2003, 10:27 PM
#4645
Tech Master
Good to see the team associated string on top, i'm wasted as a muther ff%ck~~. the diaphragm shoch caps runs wron with the tc3-sorry but they got too much inconsistancy to them-really, they're better for a car desinged for them, they placed me 1st in the A-main-meaning 1st, but BigDogRacing wasn't there nor a David Hill(one l;ong time racer that was sponsored before most of any of us were racing) but the car was totally differant, I don't don't know, maybe it was too cold to run(47 deggree-outside weather), overall I could keep full throttle around the sweeper and somewhat in and out the infield regulating my throttle to take home 1st in mod. The Yokomo shock caps are really no better than the stock shockassociasted shocks and I'll be reverting back to the "stock" shock associated setupo, my freind from little rock ARkansas didn';t show to race which caused my setup since I loaned him my Hudy setuop system so everything was eyeballed with an assocaited hex wrench=-GOD I LOVE THAT!-
, anyways, the car is still consistant throughout the track even though I got a little binding on the right front cvdat full right_I love cranking thatbaby fullt right when needed. To sum up the sum of the Yokomo Diaphragm/bladder shock caps, I see it is not neede as it is the same as the stock associated shocks for the fact that you need to remove parts for the yoko's to work and I REALLY didn't see any impovement. To be continued......................................... 
, anyways, the car is still consistant throughout the track even though I got a little binding on the right front cvdat full right_I love cranking thatbaby fullt right when needed. To sum up the sum of the Yokomo Diaphragm/bladder shock caps, I see it is not neede as it is the same as the stock associated shocks for the fact that you need to remove parts for the yoko's to work and I REALLY didn't see any impovement. To be continued.........................................
Last edited by webspinner; 03-30-2003 at 11:55 PM.
03-31-2003, 04:13 AM
#4646
Fully adjustable tc3
Has anyone ever tried to fit the front and rear ends off the nitro tc3 on a leccy.Ihad a look at it today and think i can make it work with some mods.Its not for racing just something different.
03-31-2003, 05:50 AM
#4647
Johny-- the TC3 has a fuly adjustable servo saver built into the steering rack.... if you look at the chassis from the bottom you will see a small hole towards the front . If you line the 4/40 cap head screw in the bottom of the rack up with the hole you can use a 1/16th allen driver to tighten or loosen the servo saver....
03-31-2003, 06:17 AM
#4649
The servo saver built into the steering rack is junk. It is difficult to adjust tightness to eliminate steering slop during high speed cornering and to adjust looseness to protect the servo. I lock down the steering rack servo saver and use a mid-size kimbrough servo saver on the servo.