TC3 Forum
#4081
Re: 1 way diffs...
Originally posted by Nexus
Just looking for feedback on when people are using a 1 way diff on their TC3s.
open track?
tight track?
ect.
thank.
Just looking for feedback on when people are using a 1 way diff on their TC3s.
open track?
tight track?
ect.
thank.
#4082
Tech Adept
Less rear toe-in means less speed gets scrubbed, which leads to better accelleration and higher top speeds. Using less rear toe-in is only an advantage if the car is still stable. If the car starts to slide going through the corners as the result of less toe-in, then speed gets lost due to the tires sliding (and in some cases due to the car hitting stuff due to lack of control). I'ved tried running as little as a half degree of rear toe-in. The car is very fast, but also somewhat out of control like that. With 2 or 3 degrees, the car feels a lot more stable in the corners, though a little slower due to speed getting scrubbed.
#4083
Re: Diff Rebuild
Originally posted by Trixter
Years ago I bought a diff rebuild tool from RPM and It has been one of the best investments I ever made. It really makes the repuild go smoother and after you are done, you can check the tightness also. I have spent less money and time on diff rebuild and adjustment. Get one it is really worth it.
Rick
Years ago I bought a diff rebuild tool from RPM and It has been one of the best investments I ever made. It really makes the repuild go smoother and after you are done, you can check the tightness also. I have spent less money and time on diff rebuild and adjustment. Get one it is really worth it.
Rick
They are pretty straightforward to rebuild ... in what way do they help?
#4084
I still like 2 degrees.
The less toe-in at the rear, the less speed you scrub (tires fighting each other) but the less stability that you have. I tend to like some stability so I like 2 degrees. It's always worked well for me.
The less toe-in at the rear, the less speed you scrub (tires fighting each other) but the less stability that you have. I tend to like some stability so I like 2 degrees. It's always worked well for me.
#4086
Tech Adept
Hey guys, I was going to sell my tc3 but decided to keep it. My question is what maintainence am I missing? right now all i do is blow my car off with an aircompressor. Also are bearings for teh steering rack really important?
Thnx
One last thing, anyone have any MVP tips to make it go fast? Everyone is killing me on the straight...I have the correct gearing though. i think it is also do to my batts...
thnx
Thnx
One last thing, anyone have any MVP tips to make it go fast? Everyone is killing me on the straight...I have the correct gearing though. i think it is also do to my batts...
thnx
#4087
Originally posted by big al
Tibolag--
Are you heading out to the rccar race this weekend? I may go if stockton isn't running carpet--Al
Tibolag--
Are you heading out to the rccar race this weekend? I may go if stockton isn't running carpet--Al
unfortunatley, i gotta work this saturday. but this weekend's race is at the new fremont track right? anyways, lookin forward to the rccar season!
#4088
Re: Re: 1 way diffs...
Originally posted by gator
what about running the oneway in the front and a spool in the rear ? i have heard of this combo before ..what do you think????
what about running the oneway in the front and a spool in the rear ? i have heard of this combo before ..what do you think????
#4089
Diff Rebuild Tool -- RPM
Hooked. There are two Studs (for lack of better word) that stick up and pins through them. One is for Associated, the other is for Losi. For the TC3 {with palstic diff halves} you set the short diff half down on the stud. The pin holds it from turning. You then put on all of the parts. 'D' ring, gear, balls then grease. Then you put the long side on with 'D' ring stuck (with a very little dab of grease), then insert the diff screw with the thrust washers and balls already installed and lubed. Using the allen driver, tighten till you feel it bottom and then back off the appropriate amount. Then you can slip the halves over the flats of the bottom of the tool and turn the gear and see if you have it tight enough. Check on RPM's site and I think they have a picture of it. Pretty Goof/Proof after a couple of uses.
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com
Rick
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com
Rick
Last edited by Trixter; 02-17-2003 at 06:53 PM.
#4090
RPM Diff rebuild tool....OOOOPs
Gentlemen: It has come to my attention that all this time I thought that my tool was built by RPM (not really sure who makes it) but right there on the face of it it says RACERS EDGE. My apologies.
http://www.racers-edge.com
PART # RE 7030 Diff Rebuilding Tool
Thnaks for your indulgence.
Rick
http://www.racers-edge.com
PART # RE 7030 Diff Rebuilding Tool
Thnaks for your indulgence.
Rick
Last edited by Trixter; 02-17-2003 at 07:05 PM.
#4091
less drag in the rear mainly, and for me it allows me to turn in harder w/o kicking the car sideways. when i run more rear toe, the car wants to dive into the corners. with running foam lately this is something you dont want to happen. smooth is fast
#4092
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Hey All,
Just built up a TC3 from parts I had laying around, it is smooth but not ultra smooth...or should I say free...any hints/tips about freeing up the driveline, I made sure I didnt tighten down the diff cases to tight or the shaft braces, but the care just doesnt seem as free as my other TC3's....
Thanks in advance...
Just built up a TC3 from parts I had laying around, it is smooth but not ultra smooth...or should I say free...any hints/tips about freeing up the driveline, I made sure I didnt tighten down the diff cases to tight or the shaft braces, but the care just doesnt seem as free as my other TC3's....
Thanks in advance...
#4093
Re: Diff Rebuild Tool -- RPM
Originally posted by Trixter
Hooked. There are two Studs (for lack of better word) that stick up and pins through them. One is for Associated, the other is for Losi. For the TC3 {with palstic diff halves} you set the short diff half down on the stud. The pin holds it from turning. You then put on all of the parts. 'D' ring, gear, balls then grease. Then you put the long side on with 'D' ring stuck (with a very little dab of grease), then insert the diff screw with the thrust washers and balls already installed and lubed. Using the allen driver, tighten till you feel it bottom and then back off the appropriate amount. Then you can slip the halves over the flats of the bottom of the tool and turn the gear and see if you have it tight enough. Check on RPM's site and I think they have a picture of it. Pretty Goof/Proof after a couple of uses.
Hooked. There are two Studs (for lack of better word) that stick up and pins through them. One is for Associated, the other is for Losi. For the TC3 {with palstic diff halves} you set the short diff half down on the stud. The pin holds it from turning. You then put on all of the parts. 'D' ring, gear, balls then grease. Then you put the long side on with 'D' ring stuck (with a very little dab of grease), then insert the diff screw with the thrust washers and balls already installed and lubed. Using the allen driver, tighten till you feel it bottom and then back off the appropriate amount. Then you can slip the halves over the flats of the bottom of the tool and turn the gear and see if you have it tight enough. Check on RPM's site and I think they have a picture of it. Pretty Goof/Proof after a couple of uses.
I do pretty much the same thing with 2 allen keys when I do a rebuild ... I slide 1 allen key through each of the slots in the end of the outdrives and check to see that the gear does not turn when both outdrives are stationary.
I realized this little trick after cooking (melting) both front and rear diffs within 4 very frustrating races of my first rebuild (I bought a used TC3, rebuilt the entire car except the diffs and ran it for approx. 40 races before the rebuild in question).
Dean
#4094
If you want to make a diff tool just bend a piece of coathanger in the shape of a U and use it to hold the two outdrives
#4095
A friend of mine has a Tc3 and he wants to know which shaft is better. OF course i drive the xxx-s so i don't know anything about it. So what's a better shaft to get? The AE aluminum shaft, AE carbon shaft, or the IRS aluminum shaft?