rcpilot

NTC3NUT:

What tools did you use to cut out the center brace on the chassis and elongate the battery holes?

Thanks,
Martin.

PW

Hey guys....Got few updates from Mr Warpspeed and the test drivers.

Battery/Motor location: Both layouts were tested and they assured me that there is no torque steer and the car was better with the current layout.

Chassis Stiffness: The chassis has zero flex with its 3mm chassis and 2mm top-plate.

NTC3 Steering: I've been told the mounting holes are already in place for the NTC3 steering. Testing was done first though with the stock system to make sure that when compared head to head with a stock TC3 everything (geometry) was the same with the exception of the chassis layout.

More Pics: I'm awaiting some more chassis pics minus electronics to post of the production car. Those pics should be much better for detail and will also include the blue anodized alloy production parts.

Release dates: Are scheduled for the first week of January and early pricing will be around $250 List, so that means street price should be around $190.

NTC3NUT....As for the weight of the 3300's. I'm a factory driver for Reedy Modifieds and the packs that I compared were both pre-built race packs by Reedy and the "Yokomo/GP 3300" was 1.49 oz heavier than the "Ultra Metal 3000". I however didn't compare weight with Sayno 3000 or Sanyo 3300.

Hi Joe, it sounds like Josh is the lucky one

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Paul-dont obsolete my SWEETTT Bridgeport machined Graphite chassis before they ever hit the market!!! I am totally kidding!!!


I cannot wait to buy the Warpspeed top plate!!!! That will allow all kinds of possibilities on machining the stock Graphite chassis!!!

All this prototyping is FUN!! but more than anything-it says people are getting really bored with the TC3. God knows I am-been running them since they came out!!!

Iso Octane

Just a quick question,

Does the TC3 suffer side-to-side weight distribution problems? With the battery on one side, and everything else on the others, there won't be equal weight on both sides, right?

So do you guys balast the car?

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

The biggest problem we have with the cells on the left is the fact that, as our tracks run mainly clockwise, then the weight of the cells is on the outside.

Any ballast we need is always put on the right - normally in the empty space alongside the motor if we need the weight at the rear, or on the servo if we need it up front. Of course with the fan in the rear space now I will have to put the ballast on the servo, the only space available.

However I am presently preparing a new chassis (modified tub) with the battery more centralised like everyone is doing it - and the fan blowing from in front of the motor, so that space for ballast will be available again.

A friend has split his battery with 4 cells left and two cells right. It looks like a good idea but it does mean I have to have cells just for that car.

Round 5 of our championship tomorrow. We'll see how it goes!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Kenneth Tan

iTrader: (1)

Where do you attach the leads of the fan to? The receiver B/C channel, motor leads or the battery input leads? I tried the motor leads but the fan doesn't seem to be able to run properly when the motor is connected... Please help. Thank you.

NTC3NUT

Kenneth Tan,
All of the fans that I have seen installed have the leads attached to the speed control where the positive & negative battery leads are attached. Some people use a switch, some do not. The only benifit to the switch is that the fan doesn't run unless you turn it on. If it's attached without a switch it runs the entire time the battery is connected. Hope that helps.

Craig

Doesnt plugging it into the reciever bat position turn it off and on with the speed control?

Crazy Canuck

How do you do the NTC3 steering mod? I remember seeing instructions somewhere, but I cant remember where.

Thanks

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

KENNETH TAN.

I had exactly the same problem and it took a while to fathom out.

It's all to do with magnetic fields. The motor magnets are far stronger than the fan ones and tend to stop the fan. All you have to do is leave the fan in the same place but rotate it's housing through 90 degrees. It works, believe me.

I have my fan wired on the receiver BC plug. However on the new chassis I plan to have the fan fitted across the chassis just ahead of the motor, not alongside as the present one is. There should still be plenty of space for the GT7, and the receiver, and it means you don't weaken the chassis sides.

I took my Pro 10 RC10 down to the track today. Hadn't used it for a couple of years. It's still a real blast around the oval.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

lilshortyc3

Does anyone have a TC3 set-up for carpet with foam tires?

mike_Webb

Check back about 5 pages and look at Mike D's setup
He was I think 6th in Cleveland in Stock A main.

NTC3NUT

Crazy Canuck,
Go to the top of page of 104 for photo's & instructions on the NTC3 rack.

OB42TC3

what time's the track open tommorow NTC3NUT?

DaWolf

Hey guys, got a few questions, I do relize you guys probable talked agou this before . But save me from reading through all 112 pages.

This thing with the fan, Are you guys noticing a big difference with it? Is it worth the trouble? Also, I seen where someone drilled out the bottom of the tub where the motor sits. Would this be sufficient cooling or would you still hook up the fan?

Also, Do ya think drilling out the tub so much would weakin it up to the point where it could tweak out easier?

Thanks guys