PizzaDude

Ray and Mike,

Thanks for the quick answers.

CU
Pizza

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

rc-zombies-E-mail me and I can get you out what you want today. Everything, but the rear arms. I didnt get any-so he must be back-ordered on them. But he is sending me more Jaco tires soon-so I'll probably get them with the tires.

They are $22.00 a pair (arms or hubs) or $80.00 for the set-when I get the rear arms in. Shipping will be about $6.00 insured with tracking number.
Hope this help,
Ray

OB42TC3

I have been running GRP 30 mm 37-42 shore rears all season with jaco plaids up front. I think the gas style rubber gives a better wear to traction ratio too. You have to run 37 (30 mm) in the back to match the plaid wear up front. The gas fronts I haven't tried since last year, but from what I could tell last year, 42s weren't giving enough steering. I am going to try 37 fronts 40 rears next practice day I get. I think the gas style fronts are a little inconsistent from the start to finish of a race, but I 'll give it another shot with the 37s. I also made a set of "plaids" by cutting a donut of the 40 'fronts' and transplanting onto a set of 42 rears. That resulted in a tire with noticeably less steering but not too much. It worked well enough that I think I am going to be making some more of these. On a side note I have noticed that with the GRPs the difference between 40 and 42 is less than the difference between 40 and 37(duh! but seriously you can really feel the difference where as you have to look at the sticker with the other)

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

$80.00 for the set.? front arms, rear arms, front hubs, rear hubs.
C-blocks? are the rear hubs original design or losi style...?

mike_Webb

No to the C-Hubs... C Hubs are something he does not make.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

oic.... how about the rear hub design?

mike_Webb

I think they are like the lois...I am not too sure...have not seen them yet. I had a picture of the arms that he sent me but that is it.. I will look when I get home to see if I still have the pictures of his arms.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Thanks mike!

I'll go order a full set..

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

ive seen his car in person. i think the rear hubs are basically the regular associated design. the front hubs however are more of a losi design i think. they have equal steering throw left to right and also have more overall steering throw than the stock ones.

TC3

@ntc3nut, what kind of Motor Adjustment Clamp are u useing?
i mean the one on the pic postet a few days ago, the silver one..

NTC3NUT

I made it myself. Actually, I modified it myself, from an original AE black motor clamp & cam. I first used a wire wheel attachment on my Dremel to remove all the black powder coating. I then made a rough cut on the clamp with a cut off wheel to remove the heat sink fins. After using a sanding drum to smooth the clamp where I made the cut, I used a cloth wheel & polishing compound to give both pieces a "chrome" finish. I know it sounds time consuming, it is. But I love having things on my car that I "made" myself. I have had alot of positive comments on the clamp & cam, and have had other racers request a set. The blue stuff that came with my FT kit looked cool too, I just prefer this "custom" look.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Guys,
I am very happy to report that the enthusiasm for these arms is awesome!!! I am answering the same questions so I think I will put them here for all to see as well!!!


1. How may shock mouting locations? The arms have two shock mounting locations. The set screw holes and ballstud holes are pre-threaded!!!


2. Are they Delrin? The material is nylotron (sp?)-a material used in military application, among other things. It is "nearly" indestructible. They are precision machined and will remove slop in the suspension. If you cut one in half-you would see it is low void-or no air bubbles, no grain like the composites and graphite arms. SOLID!! but light!!!

3. Are they expensive?-Compared to a graphite arm-maybe. But they will outlast many sets of graphite arms, wont strip out just because you decided to change castor blocks and they improve the steering geometry problems of the stering rack system. You do the math.


Also- I took 5 chassis to the machine shop to have the batteries moved in, battery box lowered and some holes and slots put in to lighten, as well as allow for strapping tape to be used instead of the battery bar. I cannot wait to get them back on Monday!!!

James Nguyen

How much are you guys lowering the batts? also, i milled the center of the chassis in to teh center yesterday but can i still run the rear batt position because the bearing cap thing will hit the batt and not let it go in all the way. let me know how you guys are doing this.

Thanks.

mike_Webb

unfortunatly the pictures he sent of the front and rear Carriers do not show up.

ZER01

James, TiR doesn't list the Ti outdrives for the tc3 on their website. Thanks though, I appreciated the help. Oh, I didn't run that 13X2 epic(p94), I ended up running a 12X2 yok(Ti) and won 1st at that 2day race with my XXXS. The mission got 3rd in stock. Still learning

Anyone know any other manufacturer of Ti outdrives for the tc3 or a place that sells TiR Ti outdrives for the tc3?