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Old 09-03-2002, 09:20 PM   #2431
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Hey Chad,

How's it going buddy? How's the weather in CO.

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Old 09-04-2002, 12:28 AM   #2432
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V12 - you DON'T need the new arms. You can use the regular arms. I am doing so and have been running the Locked Front setup for a while now.

rcpainter - interesting idea. I just didn't put the balls in and it locked fine. . .did you find that you needed the eraser? Mine is totally locked without them.

fred - actually, we are trying to INCREASE friction, not decrease it. If we decreased friction, it would allow the ring gear to slip which would defeat the purpose - methinks you got switched up!
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Old 09-04-2002, 12:51 AM   #2433
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Boomer, acutally, this is something that was told to me from a PRO driver. Unless you want to run your ride hide above 5mm, it is best to invest in the new arms.

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Old 09-04-2002, 01:04 AM   #2434
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If you space the rear shock mount up by 2mm, you can achieve a ride height down to 4.3mm.

Have been running two TC3's for 3 weeks now setup like this.
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Old 09-04-2002, 02:07 AM   #2435
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

The TC3, now in it's 3rd year, still almost exactly as it started off, and copied by many, still seems to be the car to have.

In the last 6 weeks almost every race of any importance, anywhere in the world, has been won by a TC3.

The latest in the series of wins occurred at Snetterton in England last Sunday.

In the penultimate round of the British championship TC3s scored wins in both stock and modified, and with still one round to go have clinched both championships, despite stiff opposition from almost every other manufacturer.

Cliff Lett deserves a doctorate.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 09-04-2002, 08:44 AM   #2436
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Hahahha...here we go again.

Do realize that you DON'T need the new front arms....if you choose NOT to use them, you CANNOT get the ride below 5mm....

unless....

....you shim up the shock tower. While this is an easy fix, it also changes the camber link location on the tower. You will lose the lower tower location (as shimming the tower UP will, in essence, move the camber link up also). You also make the tower a little more vulnerable in a crash. The screws need to be longer and since they aren't really attaching the tower to the bulkhead, you MIGHT encounter problems.

It's a better choice to just buy the arms. They are cheap and they are a running change so ALL the arms from now on will be with the new holes (for either tower).

I have a buddy making a spool for me (should be done soon) and I can't wait to try it. Not sure if a locked diff or the spool will be better....
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Old 09-04-2002, 09:13 AM   #2437
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TP: I'm glad someone else finds this funny as well. Isn't life grand?!? It's always interesting to see all the different answers to a question. I love this game...

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Old 09-04-2002, 10:07 AM   #2438
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Someone is clearly doing something wrong.

I built son's TC3 up with the rear tower up front.
I didn't space it.
I use standard TC3 shocks without any rebound washers.
On full compression the car bottoms before the shocks do.
And I still have the old type, single hole arms, since the new ones haven't arrived yet.

So what am I doing wrong, to still have all the travel I want!

I have the front ride height set at about 5mm.

Interesting.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 09-04-2002, 10:41 AM   #2439
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Just trim the shock eyelet down a few millimeters. The spring retension cup will now be able to slide farther down eyelet and you can get 3mm ride height if desired.

Many of us have been running the rear tower up front on carpet w/ foams for about 9 months now. Nobody has had a problem since trimming down the neck of the eyelet. The setup works very well.
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Old 09-04-2002, 10:50 AM   #2440
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Quote:
Originally posted by bshields
Just trim the shock eyelet down a few millimeters. The spring retension cup will now be able to slide farther down eyelet and you can get 3mm ride height if desired.

Many of us have been running the rear tower up front on carpet w/ foams for about 9 months now. Nobody has had a problem since trimming down the neck of the eyelet. The setup works very well.
Yep, more or less!

I didn't want to shim the tower - I was afraid of weakening things. . .

But I'm running 4.5mm RH at the front and I am using the old arms. I could go lower, far lower. Anything's possible!
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Old 09-04-2002, 11:47 AM   #2441
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Fred.....ahhahaha you enjoy this too???? Good to know, though, that there are MANY different thoughts about things....

johnbull: question. Can you LOWER the ride height below 5mm???? I'm pretty sure you can't. And that's the problem. On really high-bite tracks (like our SoCal Raceway...or even carpet), anything ABOVE 4 - 4.5 is too high. And you can't lower the front ride height below 5mm.

I heard of guys cutting the eyelets....I don't like doing anything that jeopardizes the durability of the car....especially the front of it!!!!! Sometimes I like to crash....
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Old 09-04-2002, 03:41 PM   #2442
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I put header paper in the diff and ran it. Everything was fne during the run, and it did get off the corner nice.

I also tried cutting down rulon pegs from the Traxxas slipper. It's easy to do as far as making them fit the hole, but they were too long. This made the diff halves not true to each other. When i comprssed the diff (tightened) it, the pegs got kinda squashed and deformed. Probably if you cut them to a shorter length before hand, everything would work out.

...And i also ran with a locked diff using all the stock components on carpet with foams. The car was just super well behaved and even drove right thru corner dots like a MUVVV! I hate corner dots so this is good. It just needed steering, and I suspected it would need to have the front end softened. Just wanted to test w/ a regular, known setup so I'd have a baseline. I'm not sure how much extra rip off the corner it got, since it was foam stock, but when I tried the car out side on rubber it was readily apparent.

to the foam guys w/ the spool: lemme know if you come up with something you like. I'm going to try equal oil, pistons, and Purple and red springs.
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Old 09-04-2002, 04:37 PM   #2443
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Boomer i tried it with the diff-balls but couldn't get it locked, the eraser works just fine it is and will stay locked
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Old 09-04-2002, 05:54 PM   #2444
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yeah, I tried with them too, and it was fairly cool, but not locked.

I just took them out and tightened it down. that worked well for me, but then I'm obviously fairly wierd!
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Old 09-04-2002, 06:00 PM   #2445
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Hi guys

what does everyone mean buy a spool?
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