Boomer,

Put that setup on my car and took it to the track....3rd in the A-main, my best stock touring finish by 4 places!!!

But I know there is more to be had from this setup cause it was actually a little rear-end swirly coming out of the corners, she wanted to hook around...So If I could just plant the rear end a little more...man-o-man!

BTW: the only change from the setup I made was no Front Swaybar, I run on a bumpy track and I have never had good luck with a front sway bar, did run a rear sway bar, anyone think removing that may help the car a little??? or putting on the front one??

Thanks all!

I just got a chance to practice today with the locked front end with foams and it was really good. The car was very consistant from the first time i set it down. My setup was close to what I had run with the original parts. The only change i would like to make is to get the car to roll thru the lower speed corners better, but I think i could make a caster change. I have 6* total now, so going to 4* might be better. Definitely something to try.

If your rear is getting a bit loose, try losing the rear sway. . .might help.

Isn't that setup fun? I love being able to pick and choose my line without worrying about whether the one-way will like it or not. . .

It is a very nice setup, and I will try loosing the rear sway bar, I tell ya, if I can get that last little gremlin out of the car it will be very quick...it just launches out of the corners....and yeah it is fun being able to point the car were ever I want it to go...

Thanks for the suggestion...

HI I'm gonna have a TC3 .I'm not into electrics ,this is the first one .What I need to run this car fast?How long can I run this car?The car has ICP V 7.1 and a Core stock.Thanks for your help.I don't know anything about electrics.All my cars are nitro.

http://community.webshots.com/album/48368092aEMoMM

Just a few questions on this. I don't see anywhere on the posts where it mentions if you should or shouldn't take the diff bearings out. One can assume that you should because your locking the diff, especially if your doing what you suggested above. The diff should only loosen if your running a mod motor, is that correct?

Thanks

Hey Caesarsalad - I see you made over.

To run it fast, try a mod motor. If your running in a stock class that motor will do, just may need to tweak it a little to get the most out of it. The correct gearing and tire, shock set up will help you move throw the field smoothly and quickly. How is your car set up at the moment?

any comments on what I said. Just trying to get a better idea of how to do this, locked diff that is

thanks

I have a problem where my steering doesn't center very well. One moment I will have to adjust my trim to the left to compensate the after the next corner I wil have to reduce to trim to make it go straight.

All help welcome

You could have chassis tweak caused by an impact (the mr4 series has this problem) To help solve this issue you take off the wheels and loosen the chassis screws at the stiffeners, push down on the chassis when placed on a flat surface and retighten the screws. The other problem it could be is the servo saver machanism built in to the steering rack. It occasionally loosens and gives the problems you described. Just tighten it back up to the manual specs, you may want to add a drop of loctite to the screw and you're set. Or you could have damaged the servo or steering machanisms in some fom. I would check it all thoroughly.--Al

Two other things to check. . .if your steering rack is too tight your servo will not center it all the way.

Also, I have noticed a number of servos that, after a while, stop centering all the way - what kind of servo are you using?

the lock diff setup came about when they had the Reedy race (I think?) where Mike Reedy announced therell be no oneways only diffs.
so the AE guys came up with locking the front diffs to get more traction on power like the oneways without braking the rule of no oneways.
At the same time they tried out the use of rear shock tower and new arms.
I had a chance of using the rear arms in the front years ago(run out of arms back then)it gave the car a softer front (wish I had the Idea of puttin that extra hole!)

so I think using a solid diff is a better Idea than a lock diff.
I have manage to modify a NTc3 solid diff (bec its longer)
but I havent put it at the track yet.
you dont have to worry about it gettin loose
and best of all you have brakes on the front

there are track layouts where a oneway is a better weapon.
the lock diff is another weapon for you to have for your disposal
I have tried the lock diff,new arms,shock tower and foams so far this is the nicest setup I have tried.
thats why I opted to bring it to next level and use a solid instead of lockin it.

Good summary Super38, I think that hits just about all the high points so far. . . I think just one thing to add is that the Locked (or solid) front diff is far more tolerant than the one-way setup.

Thanks dude!

Thanks Super38 but can you tell me if you take the bearings out or leave them in. If you lock the diff in such a way that it wont come apart why would you need the bearings? Just curious because I want to try this out but I don't want to screw it up.

You're gonna need the bearings because otherwise the ring gear will not be centered. Leaving them in does them no damage - nothing is being tightened against them.