The 550 I have is a trinity, monster with a 5mm shaft. My SC 4x4 is so close in weight and size, I figured it should survive.

Should this actually matter? From my understanding of how BL motors work, the 3 phases should be identical as far as the wiring of the stator. You should be able to put the end cap on a SP motor in any orientation (as long as the phases are connected in the proper order in relation to the sensor position) and work fine.

I know I've run my 1S 17.5 upside down compared to your suggestion and had no issues at all.

I have done a lot of testing with this and with my dyno i found that there was a quicker way of building every motor , this varies from motor to motor , we race 13.5 zero timing so the motor is really important and i found about 3,000 RPM more with building the motors in differant positions ;-)

Good to know, I may have to do some playing with this. But while this may be the case, I am quite curious why it would be that way given how the motors are constructed (stator wise)

What dyno do you use?

just a Team Powers Dyno , it measures A draw and motor Revs

I'm in need of a dyno. Are you happy with it? Looks nice.

its ok , basic and cheap , you get the idea if the motor is good or not

Solara, Please check pm when you have an opprotunity! Thanks

I'm a little confused, I bought a SP GT 2.1 EX for my 1 Cell ThunderPower 5000Mah 40C battery which I run with an SP17.5T motor. It has whatever software came on it.

The motor wont run unless I have the Low voltage cutoff set to None (1). Shouldn't I be able to set the Cut off to 3.2V (5) and the motor should run?

thanks

I believe its a known glitch in the software. I heard there is a fix for it that SP or Hobbywing has.

I received my items from solara on friday and the ceramic bearings are 10x smoother! I used the RPM bearing blaster on the stockers and the ceramic ones and I used brake parts cleaner on them, let them dry over night and lubed with TRF bearing lube. HOLY COW! HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!!

Now, the issue... I bought the super 7 rotor and I normally use the large shim on the front(on the normal rotor and stainless bearings), and 3 small on the rear(for some reason there is a shim that is too thin to fit any side of the shaft) When I upgraded the shaft and replaced the bearing, I needed to remove one shim. With all shims in, the shaft wouldn't rotate at all.. Anyone else have that issue?

That can be expected whenever you change internal components in any given motor. That's the purpose of having shims in the first place.
(to center the rotor and take up any extra slack in the fitment of the rotor)
The shims are needed to compensate for component tolerances. Just remove a shim and you are good to go.

thanks for the info, I'm assuming that if I can find it, I download it and put it onto the programming box, then transfer to the esc?

thanks

Please post link if you find software fix because I've looked but couldn't find fix
Thanks
Idbdoug